speedway motors boxed rear control arms

All 8 rear bushings are the same.



I'd rebuild the old ones. Etch them with phosphoric acid (sold to clean up tile), rub them with scotch brite, spray them flat black rustoleum. If your car is for the streets, I don't see how you'd benefit from boxed LCAs.

BTW, I have a set of upper/lowers rebuilt and painted with new rubber bushings, but wouldn't sell them for $200 because the shipping would probably be $50. They're prolly going in the Cutlass this summer. Once you get them out of the car, it is a couple hours of easy work.
no. i'd rather buy complete v paying the labor to rebuild old ones.
 
Don't toss the old ones. If by chance you're close to me, I'll give you a bit of cash for them.
 
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I was around there about 30+ yrs ago. old rotten Groton...
nice. i had to send my car out there to get painted (at the 117/ 184 intersection) from westerly, no 1 in town would do anything else but a dented fender.
 
All of those poly bushing are hard on mounts. None of them have provisions for articulation. Even the OEM do not really articulate very well but since the bushing is so soft, it can.

One company that recognizes this problem is UMI with Rotojoints.
yeah, im all set now. i posted this originally cuz spegedway on amazon ran out of their factory replacements hrs before i could place an order when my CC rolled over into its next billing cycle. this was a panic post cuz no other available cheap alternative options. thankfully next day angmeck that was previously gonna buy came back in stock $100 less than SWM. i dont have a high hp car and want the RCAs to do what the engineers designed them to do. only polys goin with are in rear housing. thanks for replying
 
You used to be able to buy the complete front and rear control arms from GM all bushed up and ready to go. The fronts had all the bushings, the upper has the cross shafts installed, and the ball joints installed as well.

The BIGGEST problem was to ensure you got the right bushings with the rear lowers. Conveniently, the standard F-body and G-body shared the same rear LCA there for a while, and while all that was cool, the latest versions before they went disco'ed got "waffle" bushings. This provided even more flexibility and mush of the bushings. You definitely want to replace these style of bushings with minimally a solid rubber bushing.

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The thing is, if you got the "1LE" bushings (used in 1LE or FE2 and also the later B4C/FE7 HD suspensions), they weren't really anything other than a firmer durometer solid bushing, just as before. There's been discussions that the 1LE bushing was the same as the regular F body bushing, but I'm super-skeptical since it is not a listed part for a regular F-body suspension. It had a different part number (10164152) than the normal or F-body F41 bushing, and was used throughout the 3rd/4th gen 1LE availability run from 91-02. The LCA also had a different part number than the "normal" F-body rear LCA as well which came with the 1LE/FE2 bushings installed. We know the metal arm itself wasn't different. The bushing was not listed as "fitting" anything else. Hence, it's got its folklore name as the "1LE" bushing.

The GM bushing still shows as a good number, list price of $22.23 each.
 
I have polyurethane motor and trans mounts; everything else is rubber. Replacing the old dry-rotted bushings with new rubber was a very noticeable improvement. When I get around to the body mounts they will be rubber too.
 

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has anyone ever tried to put the 68-72 a-body supports in the lower bars? These are the bars I used in my 70. I have boxed many G-body arms, but you can buy that lower piece in the A-body arm and weld it in. Just wondered if that insert would fit a g-body arm.

 

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