Spohn Bumpsteer Eliminator kit?

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

I was searching for a bump steer eliminator kit for my planned front suspension changes and came across one on Ebay from Spohn. I have never really heard of them before, but they are the only company I have ever found selling a bump steer kit for a G body. Are they any good? The only negative I saw is that they use spherical bearings with no form of dust shield to protect them.

The reason I ask is that I already have the Global West Upper arms designed for the B body spindles. From what people say, they cause excessive bump steer. I am wondering if the B car spindles do this by placing the tie rod mount too high or too low, relative to the G body spindle, and if the kit would allow the tie rod to be placed in the proper plane once again.. I want the negative roll geometry, but wish to avoid the negative effects of bump steer as well. I also don't want to throw away the cash I spent on the uppers...

 

[78MC-BBC]

i have a set of Spohn lower front tubular control arms and they are a great company to deal with and awesome parts in quality and appearance. i actually have the second set of production control arms they made.

May i ask why do the B-body brake swap? :?: there are better and just as cheap alternatives that are very far ahead in technology compared to the b-body stuff. Plus the global west control arms are so expensive compared to the circle track ones which do the exact same thing as global's for only $100 pair

i only had $250 in parts into my 13" C5 vette brake upgrade which would have worked perfectly fine with the stock control arms. but i upgraded my upper/lower control arms. now the only stock parts are the tie rods, well for now at least

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

At the time, I could not find any other ideas for altering the front end that I liked, and I was not aware of the bump steer issue. I have had them for a while now ( over a year) and have since learned more about the suspension of these cars. At the time, I had other issues with the front end due to lowering and the tall spindle swap seemed to address them adequately, plus it gave me cheap bigger brakes as well. I do not wish to run circle track pieces on my car as I am not confident in their ability to take excessively bad roads and pot holes like parts designed for a street car application with more weight.

I also liked the idea of being able to run softer springs and sway bars but getting increased grip from the negative roll geometry. Sort of a have your cake and eat it too thing. The Eibach springs on the car now are very stiff and I wanted to go softer without giving up the handling edge they provided.

 

[78MC-BBC]

there are several people i know running the circle track arms for years now with no issues, alot of the grand national guys have been using the circle track arms and those guys are super pickey on replacement parts. besides circel track cars are built to slam into each other and they still run after collisions with those arms. if you get that bump steer kit you will probably be back to the stock g-body bump steer issue. but as for spohn i would be afraid to buy any of thier stuff great parts and good prices

 

[Coveted]

circle track aframes = stronger than stock aframes.

The mainreason besides availability of stock pieces that these were made, was because us cricle track guys were sick of bending an upper aframe everytime we touched wheels slightly.
Some of us welded rebar to the aframe, but in an aiccident it would normally rip the aframe mounts out.

The tubular upper a arms for circle track cars are nice, and plenty strong for road use.

 

[78MC-BBC]

see another circle track part convert. 😀

also that same bumpsteer kit you can get in circle track parts, for around $80 plus shipping. Look at speedwaymotors for good quality/cheap circle track parts. they also have alot of g-body stock suspension replacement parts.

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

Well, I looked at the tie rod to LCA relationship, and it looks like it is too low on the spindle point. So, it seems that either the LCA need to be lowered in relation to the lower ball joint, or the center drag link needs to be dropped so that the tie rods and LCA swing in the same arc. Now, this negates the bump steer eliminator kit as it would not allow the tie rod to move upwards as it needs to, and so is pointless. A proper kit it would seem would allow the center drag link to be adjusted, or would be an adjustable center drag link itself. Then again, a dropped pitman arm and idler arm would accomplish the same thing, as would a properly engineered rack and pinion conversion kit. The rack and pinion kit would have the added benefit of removing 30+lbs of steering box and linkage. Or so it would all seem. I need to actually take the time to measure it all and do some math before I come to a final conclusion.

That being said, does anyone know of a stock application power rack and pinion that has the same ball stud taper as a G or B body? I have found some manual rack kits, but I am not interested in manual steering. Just a fast ratio power setup.

 

[78MC-BBC]

all of the rack and pinion kits ive heard of or seen have all been manual.
they do make an adjustable center link for the g-bodys also, yet again another circle track part.

 

[v8power]

there are several people i know running the circle track arms for years now with no issues, alot of the grand national guys have been using the circle track arms and those guys are super pickey on replacement parts. besides circel track cars are built to slam into each other and they still run after collisions with those arms.

finally some one agrees with me on here!!! i had a set of ( i think gold west) a arms side by side, if anything the stock car one had better welds and was over all thicker in tubes. my uncle owns a stock car fabrication shop, so allot of the stuff on my regal is from his place, almost all of them can get you anything you want way cheaper through jegs or summit.

 

[78MC-BBC]

my rear upper and lower control arms are all circle track parts, and i am also running a 600 horse big block with zero wheel hop and drag radials with no problems. im not afraid to run circle track parts