Sputtering 305
- Thread starter Ace85
- Start date
as Clone TIE Pilot states, that sounds like an issue with the transmission either (1) not getting enough pressure in Forward, or (2) the torque converter is worn out.
when was the last time the transmission fluid was changed out?
when was the last time the transmission fluid was changed out?
Wet and dry compression test results? How is carburator? Any large vacuum leaks? E Brake sticking? E Brake will drag in forward, releases in reverse, not a common problem, but seen it a time or two ...
Possibility of past history of water or coolant getting into transmission? Calipers or brake shoes dragging..., not releasing? Catalytic converter plugged? Just a couple paths to go down...
If engine and brakes ok, cat converter not plugged, not overheating...
The next obvious is transmission. Lockup not releasing, clutch packs burnt, TV cable not hooked up or not adjusted correctly, torque converter worn out (as stated above), or other issues.
Can you post pic of transmission pan?
What is actual definition of "hesitate"?
Possibility of past history of water or coolant getting into transmission? Calipers or brake shoes dragging..., not releasing? Catalytic converter plugged? Just a couple paths to go down...
If engine and brakes ok, cat converter not plugged, not overheating...
The next obvious is transmission. Lockup not releasing, clutch packs burnt, TV cable not hooked up or not adjusted correctly, torque converter worn out (as stated above), or other issues.
Can you post pic of transmission pan?
What is actual definition of "hesitate"?
1985 V8 Chevy 305 C3 emission system..., big three were coolant temperature sensor, map sensor, O2 sensor. Each one is about $20, and for a 40 year old car, it doesn't hurt to do some predictive maintenance and replace those.
At idle about 800 rpm base timing should be 12 to 14 BTDC.
Next is wet and dry compression test this gives good idea of overall health and if fixable or is it time for rebuild.
At conclusion inspect oil sample for metal and or coolant in the oil.
Pull transmission dipstick inspect that as well.
Open distributor and inspect cap for carbon tracks and overall appearance of rotor, cap and other internal parts.
Remove module and have it tested. Make sure high and low side are operating properly.
Do basic check for vacuum leaks (while running at idle) using spray can of Starting Spray, Carburator Cleaner, or Brake Clean.
Next pull fuel filter, inspect for being plugged.
With a 40 year old car, now would be the time to remove and refresh the carburator with new kit, replace the old float and fuel filter, remove the carburator and clean very good, check float setting, reassemble and reinstall.
From there ... New plugs, new wire set, cap and rotor.
Then go drive it and see if it is any better.
At idle about 800 rpm base timing should be 12 to 14 BTDC.
Next is wet and dry compression test this gives good idea of overall health and if fixable or is it time for rebuild.
At conclusion inspect oil sample for metal and or coolant in the oil.
Pull transmission dipstick inspect that as well.
Open distributor and inspect cap for carbon tracks and overall appearance of rotor, cap and other internal parts.
Remove module and have it tested. Make sure high and low side are operating properly.
Do basic check for vacuum leaks (while running at idle) using spray can of Starting Spray, Carburator Cleaner, or Brake Clean.
Next pull fuel filter, inspect for being plugged.
With a 40 year old car, now would be the time to remove and refresh the carburator with new kit, replace the old float and fuel filter, remove the carburator and clean very good, check float setting, reassemble and reinstall.
From there ... New plugs, new wire set, cap and rotor.
Then go drive it and see if it is any better.
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It idles fine while in park and in drive, just when I give it gas, it hesitates. I can make a video. Thank you!
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