Supershops oil pan pick up tube fugly.

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Supershops' QA manager:
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Supershops' Asst. QA manager:
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I know most are not thinking about ever having to remove the oil pump with the motor in the car, but I’m quite confident that the two bolt setup will not allow for and oil pump or timing chain removal without pulling the pan which implies having to pull the motor.

And, the single bolt oil pickup giddyup works pretty well 😉

69hurstolds you forgot about packaging manager Ronnie Milsap
 
I agree with nailhead. I thought about why gm drill/tapped the block for the bolt but didn't use it. I figured for maintenance reasons, and looking at the oil pump and pickup location I bet he's right. Plus the oe pickup was tight. As long as I seat the oring correctly it should work fine. The truck always held 70-80 lb oil pressure with the single bolt setup. Thanks for bringing it up Tony I understand the cheap insurance sentiment. That's why I replaced the cam retainer on mine.
You can find the girdles on Amazon. I'll leave this here for people interested in the girdle.
 
Oil pressure is waaay overrated. Oil volume is not.

I have some experience with this (I’m not an expert so take my thoughts with a grain of salt.) I ran a Mellimg M295 from Advance Auto on a 4.8 for about 2k miles of severely heavy, stupid abuse. It never seen 55 psi of oil pressure at darn near 8000 rpm’s. A lifter went out of that motor and it was quicker for me to swap in an aluminum 5.3 than swap lifters. I installed another new M295 pump and the same deal, 45-55psi at WOT at 25+ psi of boost. A couple of people convinced me that needed more pressure so I shimmed the relief spring by .100”.
Now I have 65-75 at WOT.

Both motors have not experienced any oil related issues. And one might say that I FLOG them pretty hard. I ran the 5.3 out of oil before I discovered that it was out of oil at over 7k before. Then I started adding an extra 1.5qts to the pan - still runs properly with no issues. All of this with one bolt
In the pickup.

You need to have the correct O-ring, they aren’t all the same. BTR has an excellent segment on this - read it.
 
Oil pressure is waaay overrated. Oil volume is not.

I have some experience with this (I’m not an expert so take my thoughts with a grain of salt.) I ran a Mellimg M295 from Advance Auto on a 4.8 for about 2k miles of severely heavy, stupid abuse. It never seen 55 psi of oil pressure at darn near 8000 rpm’s. A lifter went out of that motor and it was quicker for me to swap in an aluminum 5.3 than swap lifters. I installed another new M295 pump and the same deal, 45-55psi at WOT at 25+ psi of boost. A couple of people convinced me that needed more pressure so I shimmed the relief spring by .100”.
Now I have 65-75 at WOT.

Both motors have not experienced any oil related issues. And one might say that I FLOG them pretty hard. I ran the 5.3 out of oil before I discovered that it was out of oil at over 7k before. Then I started adding an extra 1.5qts to the pan - still runs properly with no issues. All of this with one bolt
In the pickup.

You need to have the correct O-ring, they aren’t all the same. BTR has an excellent segment on this - read it.
Watched a video recently about high volume pumps in LS's. Don't remember if it was Melling, Holley, Steve Morris or.... but they ran into problems with road race cars. Higher volume is fine for street strip cars but the sustained high rpm from road courses would suck sump dry without a baffled pan. I know we've all heard about that back in the day with traditional sbc/bbc. Never bought into it but now ??? And I have the high volume pump and no baffled doors in my pan. I wanted to do some autocross but at the rate I'm going I'll be happy to do some street light acceleration hi jinks.
 
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A high volume pump on LS is a crutch that solves another problem IMHO.

Keep in mind there is a difference between volume and pressure. A high volume pump is fine in most street applications, but if you intend to run 9-12 seconds at 6500+ rpm’s then expect to empty your oil pan with a stock setup. I have to run an extra 1-2 quarts above the full mark to make it 10 seconds with a stock volume pump at 6800-7200 to keep from running out mid oil. A high volume pump will work, just need more in reserve (bigger pan.)

My $.02.
 
A high volume pump on LS is a crutch that solves another problem IMHO.

Keep in mind there is a difference between volume and pressure. A high volume pump is fine in most street applications, but if you intend to run 9-12 seconds at 6500+ rpm’s then expect to empty true oil pan with a stick setup. I have to run an extra 1-2 quarts above the full mark to make it 10 seconds with a stock volume pump at 6800-7200 to keep from running out mid oil. A high volume pump will work, just need more in reserve (bigger pan.

My $.02.
 
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I finally got the holley replacement tube. It's alot nicer. It looks like dom to me. The super shops definitely stopped at erw. You can see the seam. I imagine this attention to quality/detail is also used on the oil pan and that's why they're almost double in price.
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The holley is also brazed instead of welded at the pickup
20220319_121210.jpg

I'll be honest, I wasn't gonna put an oil pump in it. I've read the ls pump cavitation happens above 6200 rpm. I think the cam falls off above 6k. So I didn't figure the stock pump would be a problem. I'm off to the garage to throw this heap together. I'm smoking a pork butt tomorrow so whatever is getting done has to happen today.
 
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