Honor your Dad by getting this car to run! You have a serpentine belt - make sure the correct, reverse-rotation water pump was installed. Since the AC is not hooked up, you can replace the AC compressor with an idler pulley for now - Motormite (Help! parts section) makes one for about 30 bucks. The brake booster looks odd in your photo - does your car have manual brakes, or did your Dad swap in a hydroboost from the donor truck?
Squirt some Marvel's Mystery oil in the cylinders, and rotate the motor (if you can) by hand with a bar. There are adapters that bolt on to the balancer in place of the lower pulley (use the same bolts) to give you a half-inch square hole for a large socket wrench or breaker bar. One thing to look out for - valve springs. If the motor has not yet been turned after ten years, take the valve covers off and mark the springs that are compressed (data for later). Sitting compressed for years, even un-run, might have given them a 'set'. You might consider replacing these now or in the future.
After 10 years, you might want to loosen the rockers, pull the lifters and redo the break-in lube on the lifter faces and cam lobes. I like moly-based lubes. If the engine was never run, the cam and lifters have never worn in against each other so as long as there is not corrosion in there, you should be OK. After filling the pan and replacing the oil filter, definitely pull the distributor and pre-lube the motor by spinning the oil pump with a priming tool chucked in a drill. Mark the intake where the distributor rotor is pointing so you get it back in the right place afterwards. You may have to nudge the oil pump drive slot a little to get the helical distributor gear to engage in the right spot.
Once the drill motor slows down, you should start to see oil coming out of the push rod ends under the rockers. Rotate the motor a few more times, and set the rocker pre-load now that the lifters have been pumped up. Start with the engine at #1 cylinder (driver, front) top dead center - the intake and exhaust valves both shut while turning the crank. Spin the pushrods while tightening the rocker until they won't turn, then go an additional 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. Go through two full rotations of the crankshaft, 1-8-4-7-2-6-5. You might also want to replace the coolant. If it's a rebuilt motor, you should be able to pull the water jacket drain plug, one on each side of the block, just above the oil pan. With luck, no liquid rust dumps out. If you replace the fuel pump, also put some moly on the fuel pump pushrod.
Good luck. It will probably work out just fine if timing and fuel are correct.
