Tall vs. Short Ball Joint

[79 SkyBu]

Can someone please explain, using “lame-men” terminology, the different in using tall vs. short ball joints. I'm about to rebuilding my front and rear suspension and need some help understanding the difference so I can do it right. I'll be using 98 Olds Bravda dual piston calipers, 01 GMC spindles, hubs, and back plates, and Moog's 5660 S-10 shocks and extended shocks. I also plan to raise it about 2" all the way around, using lift cups. (Please no comments on why or your personal opinion. I have my and you have yours, respect mine and I'll respect yours.)

What is the major different in using tall or shorts BJs?

With me lift the suspension, how would it benefit me to use one or the other?

As always thanks for any positive input.

 

[shotgun]

The short, easy version is:

Right now your upper and lower control arms are at an angle to each other.

Bottom being almost level and the uca down on an angle.

This does strange and wonderful things (sarcasm) to your chamber curve (negative).

Adding upper and lower tall joint makes the spindle longer. This moves the uca up, closer to level which really does strange and wonderfull thing to you chamber curve (positive).

The tall lower will also raise the car slightly.

You may at minimum need MOOG offset crossshafts to be able to get a good alignment.

Shorter (crossshaft to balljoint) arms may also be needed.+

Not sure what "cups" are but in your case you are going to create a poor handling front suspension.

Doing the tall balljoint deal will most likely just get you back to stock type handling or compensate for the lift.

 

[pontiacgp]

shotgun...for the offset crossshafts you can use the tubular uppers at a circle track shop right side and get the length needed and for the left side your get another right the same length and you can flip it upside down...the right side circle track car has a negative camber of around 4 degrees give so you can buy it at a half inch increments

 

[79 SkyBu]

yea... I have been reading something about "filpping" A-arms and BJ to get a better handling out of a lift. Anyone have any knowledge on that?

Thanks.

 

[pontiacgp]

the only arms I have seen flipped is the tubulars since you can`t buy a shortened right side when they put on a taller F body spindal.....it had nothing to do with anything other than to get your camber setting....

 

[79 SkyBu]

So all tall BJs do is push the top or bottom of spindle in or out...

 

[pontiacgp]

tall ball joints on the bottom lower your ride height...the top one brings your upper control arm up which basically lengthens your control arm giving you more positive camber..

 

[shotgun]

Take this with a grain of salt, I am outta my element here. Usually going down with the suspension but....

My GP front suspension is apart so I bolted up a stock spindle and duplicated a 2" lift.

You NEED a tall upper balljoint. If the suspension travels up the balljoint hits !!!!!!! Do that a couple times at it will snap and you are dead.

The lift also pulls the upper balljoint in toward the center of the car.

I "think" in your case a good (meaning H.D. like MOOG, no shitebox crap) stock lower BJ is the way to go.

Up top look at Afco or QA1 , the tallest ball stud (1.5" or 2") you can get.

I assume larger then 15" rims also.

 

[79 SkyBu]

shotgun - so you're saying a tall H.D. upper BJ and a H.D. lower BJ? How can I prevent hitting the upper BJs so they won't snap?

 

[pontiacgp]

limit the travel of your lower control arm with a chain....