TAPPING INTO FUSE BOX QUESTIONS

Can't you just buy them from the company directly?

They're listed at $26, and they can likely be shipped in USPS bubble wrap mailer? I just did a CART on their site and it would be about $40 not including tax to a zip code in HI


Did you call them and ask?

View attachment 241026
Thanks! ... but guess i'll use ur first choice u found for me..Summit $20.90 + 10.90 for shipping. I had a brain fart and was just going to send them to my daughter and son in laws house in N.C. since i will be visiting them in Aug., but shipping there was $11.99 😢. Sorry for all the churn here but I'm frugal(tight arse) and living in paradise we always try to find the best shipping cause its always $$$$. Amazon is usually the best cause of Prime(free shipping)
 
ok, after some other things i did, installed new nylon fuel lines, brake booster and MC, i started to work on those taps. Not a single tap in that kit fit any slot in my fuse box 😡😩, Summit reviews were all positive, install instructions had 2 printed views of GM fuse boxes, showed where each colored tap goes. Fit states: universal.... guess back to square one.
 
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That doesn't seem possible, are you sure you're orienting them properly to the fuse box port? I've used them in my panel, and have some friends who used them as well with no problem.

Can you post a larger pic of your fuse box, the one in your original post is too small to really see anything that might help. I have the kit, and when I get over to the garage will see if I can take a pic of mine with them plugged in to fuse panel. Is your fuse panel original to the car? What year? Or is it maybe an aftermarket fuse block and harness like from Painless Wiring? They may use a slightly difference block that isn't exactly like the original, again from your pic it's impossible to tell.
 
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i tried each colored one in all slots on the panel about 3 different times turning them in all 4 different positions, i know each one is a little different and i figured at least one would fit. when i said i saw the reviews, people said that their GM 79, 80 82 fit perfect, even a few had an '87 pickup. IDK, either i had a bad dyslexic day ( and i dont have it as far as i know)or i never passed the round ball goes in the round hole/ square peg goes in the square hole game. i sure would appreciate a pic of yours and yes, i'll take another better pic of mine, and yes its OEM original to my 84 elky conquista
 
Here you go...

IMG_20240716_175714_HDR.jpg

IMG_20240716_175541_HDR.jpg


 
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Right as i clicked on "post reply" to send off my reply to your post at 10:15 , it hit me, you said "are you sure you're orienting them properly" then as i said "yea...blah blah .... i rotated them in 4 different positions, etc." i thought...wait, i kept trying to plug them in with the large square end first, maybe i should have tried the other smaller end with the clip end, so just to confirm my stupidity i waited for your pics........ uh...... i believe i will self nominate my self for the Darwin award and i havent even made it home yet to check... i will just self assume i'm an idiot. Although being worn out after i did that other work i mentioned plus i fixed the head light switch contacts on my other car '73 toyota corona cause the lights would flicker, then trying to mess with those taps at 7 in the evening probably didnt help much either. i'll try again with the taps when i get home and probably post back tomorrow with a ....... "yep it worked"
 
😳

OMG, well don't beat yourself up over it... All of us, myself certainly included have had those days/nights where you just gotta walk away and come back to it later with fresh clear head...👍
 
well what do you know....... they fit! yea sometimes u just got take a breather.... i knew that but guess it was just one of those days. Elky was in the garage and could only open the door 3/4 the way and found my self cramped between the front of the seat/ kick panel area so that probably added to the flustering. Found the 2 black connectors fit in the "BATT" slots next to the flasher.. so gonna assume the other "acc" slots ,etc. are gonna be good too. Off track a little on this one: Yesterday, daughters TPS sensor needed replaced(just one).. $37, broke the bead and replaced it... now gotta go to get it programmed.... IMO what a gimmick these are, anything for the mfr'ers to make $$. I told her when she changes her tires next to just go put regular rubber valve stem plugs in there and turn off the low air light
 
well what do you know....... they fit! yea sometimes u just got take a breather.... i knew that but guess it was just one of those days. Elky was in the garage and could only open the door 3/4 the way and found my self cramped between the front of the seat/ kick panel area so that probably added to the flustering. Found the 2 black connectors fit in the "BATT" slots next to the flasher.. so gonna assume the other "acc" slots ,etc. are gonna be good too. Off track a little on this one: Yesterday, daughters TPS sensor needed replaced(just one).. $37, broke the bead and replaced it... now gotta go to get it programmed.... IMO what a gimmick these are, anything for the mfr'ers to make $$. I told her when she changes her tires next to just go put regular rubber valve stem plugs in there and turn off the low air light

I think they should be marked on the fuse panel which are BAT and which are IGN ports, and you can always confirm with test light of course. Remember too, you gotta add your own inline fuses to those take offs to protect downstream circuit you're adding.

Yeah those TPMS sensors are nice when they work, but they don't all work the same way...some have to be synch'ed or re-calibrated with a tool, or scanner while others will just reset them selves after certain driving conditions are met.

On my C7, all I had to do was drive the car for about 5 mins at over 40 MPH (or something like that) and it turned the light off.

On my Denali truck, I don't think it even has the waning light/indicator that stays on.... it just comes up on the information center and goes out immediately after setting the pressure correctly. My last set of replacement tires, where was some attempt by BJ's tire center to charge me like a $30 fee for TPMS "maintenance/reset" and I told them to take it off, because I knew it was total BS and they just try to sneak it in on all vehicle whether they need to do anything or not.
 
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I think they should be marked on the fuse panel which are BAT and which are IGN ports, and you can always confirm with test light of course. Remember too, you gotta add your own inline fuses to those take offs to protect downstream circuit you're adding.

Yeah those TPMS sensors are nice when they work, but they don't all work the same way...some have to be synch'ed or re-calibrated with a tool, or scanner while others will just reset them selves after certain driving conditions are met.

On my C7, all I had to do was drive the car for about 5 mins at over 40 MPH (or something like that) and it turned the light off.

On my Denali truck, I don't think it even has the waning light/indicator that stays on.... it just comes up on the information center and goes out immediately after setting the pressure correctly. My last set of replacement tires, where was some attempt by BJ's tire center to charge me like a $30 fee for TPMS "maintenance/reset" and I told them to take it off, because I knew it was total BS and they just try to sneak it in on all vehicle whether they need to do anything or not.
yea, they are. my fuse panel is like yours, although some of the white ink is fading on some of the contacts... i think it was during their stamping cause some are clear and some are just legible. yep already fused, i just had a spade going into the terminal ports and they kept popping out thats why i wanted those taps

what i was told was the ECM/PCM is calibrated with a certain sequence of identifying #'s associated with each TPS so for example, now 3 sensors have the same and the new one is different, this new one is uncalibrated, some are clones and will mimic what the ECM/PCM has stored and dont need calibrated, daughter said after getting home her light was still on. i might go ahead and try to disconnected the + cable on her battery and wait about 20 min. then reconnect and see if it clears
 

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