No fuse, just the two wires from the dash cluster plug. One that goes right to the temp switch (via the C100/fuse box/forward hanesses connector), the other goes to the ignition switch so the bulbe check can be performed when starting the car.Hey guys. See the pics. I know temp light is #3 on the cluster connector. Seems to be ckt #35 i am not great with these diagrams. Is there a fuse in this light circuit?
+12v power is from an aux fuse block fed from battery. Attached is a pic of this. Also attached is a pic of the wiring instructions for the fans. 85 goes to switched +12v (glad you remembered about the choke circuit because I didn’t!) and 86 goes to temp switch.What switches on the relays for the fan?
I remember discussing the +12V power source with you.
You would put the green wire with the ground that is switched on by to the temperature switch that energizes the coil on the relay. So 85 or 86 goes to the +12V from the old electric choke circuit and the other one of the 85 or 86 would go to a temperature switch providing the ground. That is the one you want to connect to the green wire to.
That is a good idea as well.Personally I'd keep the temp light as a back up to a gauge. If you need to have an on light for the fans just use a small LED mounted in the dash cluster face plate.
anyone??That is a good idea as well.
Let me ask you guys this.
I am using an electric gauge with sending unit located in DS head.
My fan temp switch should be in the neighborhood of 220* on 185* off and located in the water pump body, factory location for a 96 LT1
I got the car to 220 on the gauge and fans did not kick on. For fear of overheating I shut it down for the time being.
Question is….i know i should have just waited a little longer. So how hot is too hot? Or in other words how hot is it OK to let it get? Also was thinking maybe there is a temp difference between the head and water pump ??
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