I'm a Chevy guy, so I'm not sure this applies to the BOP engine bolt pattern. To get to the top two bolts that hold the trans onto the engine, a swivel socket or universal joint is helpful. Wrapping some electrical tape around it makes it less floppy. You may find it useful to have a long (18" or three 6" together) extension to reach up there.
One way to support the engine when there is no trans is to cut a 2x4 so it fits in the recess between the fender tops - use some rope tied onto an exhaust manifold or chain and bolt into an accessory hole in the back of the cylinder head - especially if the trans will be out a while. The hood won't close but you can move the car around if you have to.
When the trans is free of the engine, either have your helper pull it and lay it down so the fluid does not dump on you - or retain it with a straightened coat hanger with a hook in one end - run it across the torque converter and hook it onto the other side of the trans case - the dowel holes are a good spot to do this. Tape up or put away for safe keeping the shifter linkage - there's a spring, washer, and round plastic ball that goes into the frame bracket that have disappeared on me before.
Don't leave the driveshaft attached to the rear axle - take it out or it may get bent, and it will just be in the way while you're under there. Use a fluid plug as mentioned above. The bolts use a 7/16" wrench. Use the box end so you don't round over the flats. Wrap some tape around the rear U-joint so the two unrestrained caps don't fall off while the thing is out. Put the straps and bolts back on the yoke so they don't get lost. A few turns will keep them in place.
Last but not least...try to have at least 20" of clearance between the ground and frame rail/rocker panel or you'll have to tip the trans forward and push 150 lbs simultaneously to get it out from under the car. A big cardboard box folded flat makes a useful slider to get the bugger out.
When you have a chance, use some low pressure compressed air to blow the old fluid out of the cooler lines and radiator heat exchanger. No need to dump junky fluid into your news trans.
Take a look at the flexplate ring gear and see if there are any damaged teeth. They're fairly inexpensive, and accessible - now. Consider swapping the U-joints if you have no idea how many miles are on them, If you take this on yourself, mark the orientation of the yoke. Pressing it back together 180 off may put the thing out of balance.
One way to support the engine when there is no trans is to cut a 2x4 so it fits in the recess between the fender tops - use some rope tied onto an exhaust manifold or chain and bolt into an accessory hole in the back of the cylinder head - especially if the trans will be out a while. The hood won't close but you can move the car around if you have to.
When the trans is free of the engine, either have your helper pull it and lay it down so the fluid does not dump on you - or retain it with a straightened coat hanger with a hook in one end - run it across the torque converter and hook it onto the other side of the trans case - the dowel holes are a good spot to do this. Tape up or put away for safe keeping the shifter linkage - there's a spring, washer, and round plastic ball that goes into the frame bracket that have disappeared on me before.
Don't leave the driveshaft attached to the rear axle - take it out or it may get bent, and it will just be in the way while you're under there. Use a fluid plug as mentioned above. The bolts use a 7/16" wrench. Use the box end so you don't round over the flats. Wrap some tape around the rear U-joint so the two unrestrained caps don't fall off while the thing is out. Put the straps and bolts back on the yoke so they don't get lost. A few turns will keep them in place.
Last but not least...try to have at least 20" of clearance between the ground and frame rail/rocker panel or you'll have to tip the trans forward and push 150 lbs simultaneously to get it out from under the car. A big cardboard box folded flat makes a useful slider to get the bugger out.
When you have a chance, use some low pressure compressed air to blow the old fluid out of the cooler lines and radiator heat exchanger. No need to dump junky fluid into your news trans.
Take a look at the flexplate ring gear and see if there are any damaged teeth. They're fairly inexpensive, and accessible - now. Consider swapping the U-joints if you have no idea how many miles are on them, If you take this on yourself, mark the orientation of the yoke. Pressing it back together 180 off may put the thing out of balance.
