Th350 vs Thm250c, whats the difference?

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ck1984

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Sep 19, 2021
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250C is not worth the time to hook it up to an LS or anything else. It's not worth the the effort. They suck balls.

A 200-4R needs a couple of upgrades to be reliable, just the same as TH350. Decide if you want a 3 or 4 speed. Bulletproof is a TH400 (3 speed) or 4L80E (4 speed).

I understand budgets and being cheap, but a 250C is not worth the time to bolt it back in.
 

ck1984

Apprentice
Sep 19, 2021
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Well considering how i didnt know a th250c existed and thought i had the venerable th350 and how hard it was getting the Ls/th250 combo in there espeically fully assembled with intake on engine and front clip still on car, its unlikely to be pulled just cuz it MIGHT blow up down the road. its working fine [for now] if you dont mind a bit of transmission fluid on your driveway everyday ;-)

that being said, i am liking the 2004R over the 4L80 since according to this its same case length as th350 and i assume th250 too and should bolt right in saving me some driveshaft shortening expense.
so soon as i spot a 2004R i will likely snap it up especially if its cheaper than a 4L80, hell even if its a rebuilt for 1600cdn i might still buy it. especially if i already bought and installed 3.73 rear gears.
 
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CopperNick

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Feb 20, 2018
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Being the owner of an 02 5.3 which currently resides on my engine stand I can state with absolute surety that the 5.3 has a different bell housing bolt pattern than either the 350 or the 700R4 or the 200R4 transmission versions. All of these have 6 bolt flanges or ears that are located symmetrically around the perimeter of the bell housing. If you were to attempt to hang any of them on the back of a 5.3 you would discover that the uppermost bolt on the passenger side of the t-mission bell housing has no hole into which it could be threaded. For some reason the architecture of the block was changed so that that hole at two clock is now located at twelve. I found this out when I went to hang my engine stand mounting plate on the back of the block and found that only three out of the four mounts would line up. I was able to shift the out of alignment mount over to catch the fourth hole so it all worked out but...........................

The oddest part of all this is that the boss for that mia hole as it ought to have been located is, in fact, there. It has just never been drilled or tapped! You could mount up the t-mission and use a transfer punch to mark the boss for drilling but unless you are stone accurate when you drill the hole, get it just deep enough that it doesn't break through into anything internal, and tap the threads just precisely so, then you may be worse off than when you started.

I seem to recall there being an adapter plate kit of some kind being offered that would bridge the gap so to speak. Only thing there is that it would have to include some kind of snout adapter for the converter and spacers of some kind to bridge the gap between the flex plate and the mounts of the converter. Not sure how strong that set up would be under major torque application.



Nick
 

ck1984

Apprentice
Sep 19, 2021
52
24
8
Being the owner of an 02 5.3 which currently resides on my engine stand I can state with absolute surety that the 5.3 has a different bell housing bolt pattern than either the 350 or the 700R4 or the 200R4 transmission versions. All of these have 6 bolt flanges or ears that are located symmetrically around the perimeter of the bell housing. If you were to attempt to hang any of them on the back of a 5.3 you would discover that the uppermost bolt on the passenger side of the t-mission bell housing has no hole into which it could be threaded. For some reason the architecture of the block was changed so that that hole at two clock is now located at twelve. I found this out when I went to hang my engine stand mounting plate on the back of the block and found that only three out of the four mounts would line up. I was able to shift the out of alignment mount over to catch the fourth hole so it all worked out but...........................

The oddest part of all this is that the boss for that mia hole as it ought to have been located is, in fact, there. It has just never been drilled or tapped! You could mount up the t-mission and use a transfer punch to mark the boss for drilling but unless you are stone accurate when you drill the hole, get it just deep enough that it doesn't break through into anything internal, and tap the threads just precisely so, then you may be worse off than when you started.

I seem to recall there being an adapter plate kit of some kind being offered that would bridge the gap so to speak. Only thing there is that it would have to include some kind of snout adapter for the converter and spacers of some kind to bridge the gap between the flex plate and the mounts of the converter. Not sure how strong that set up would be under major torque application.



Nick
what does it matter? my thm250c bolted right up to my 5.3 with just that collar thing [to center it on shaft i guess]. . its been doin one tire burnouts for 2 months!? ;-)
 
Oct 14, 2008
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what does it matter? my thm250c bolted right up to my 5.3 with just that collar thing [to center it on shaft i guess]. . its been doin one tire burnouts for 2 months!? ;-)
How many bolts actually hold on the bell housing currently? I thought there was some difference, shows there is.
 
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ck1984

Apprentice
Sep 19, 2021
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i think its just one less than holding it to the 305 SBC
 
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g0thiac

G-Body Guru
Sep 6, 2020
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what does it matter? my thm250c bolted right up to my 5.3 with just that collar thing [to center it on shaft i guess]. . its been doin one tire burnouts for 2 months!? ;-)
If it works, then yeah why not use it.
 

ck1984

Apprentice
Sep 19, 2021
52
24
8
If it works, then yeah why not use it.
yeah, i listed the running 305 i pulled out of it for 3-4 months and could only get $150 cdn. So im betting i could barely get $150 for this transmission if i pulled it out while still working. My stepdad wanted it gone from his garage, so i took the 150.
So its run it till it breaks or i find a 200R4 for cheap. only one i found so far is rebuilt and its $2200 plus 150 to crate it and shipping 2000 km on top of that.
 
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ck1984

Apprentice
Sep 19, 2021
52
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has anyone done an LS swap to an old stock transmission in a vintage vehicle? if so What did you do about PCM trouble codes to do with the electronic transmission wires not hooked up.?
I have one maybe 3 TCC codes P0740, and maybe 0758, and 0785
 
Jan 7, 2018
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I have an 84 cutlass supreme brougham. I already swapped in a 5.3L truck LS thinking i had a Th350 like typical specs showed, but i guess having a canadian sold or built model i seem to have the weaker (M31) TRANSMISSION,AUTOMATIC 3-SPEED(THM250C)
Not sure if i just got lucky but it bolted right up and has been driving flawlessly for 2 months now.
Anyways i cant really find online if theres any difference between the 3 forward gear ratios or are they exactly the same?
whats all different ? someone mentioned 1 less clutch disk and band?.....

if i blow this transmission and want overdrive is it better to go with a 4L80 even though i would have to re-add the wiring?
or will a 2004R also bolt up to a 2002 5.3 L Ls?
is the 2004R same length as th350 and save me a new driveshaft by chance?
the 200r4 and the th350 are the same length. the obvious difference is 3 vs 4 speed etc. do not listen to those who say the 200r4 is a weak transmission. that is ignorance speaking. literally just not knowing the transmissions. the biggest issue people have is setting up the throttle valve cable wrong and blowing them up. the 700r4 is a vacuum controlled 4l60e both are designed not to shift into overdrive (4th) if the engine is on a load (pedal to the floor) 200r4 will carry you to your limiter through all 4 gears. 200r4 also has a smoother shift between 1st and second and the ratio drop is less extreme. also the 200r4 and th350c (th350 with a lock up torque converter for better fuel mileage) but people always take the 200r4 as the th200 which is not the same and is complete trash
 
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