The Cheap Route: Switching from a Hydraulic T/O bearing, to a External Slave Cylinder. For Olds.

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It is not often a build gets as much serviceability and reliability forethought as is needed. Good work. Widely available stock type parts are sometimes the best answer.
 
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Is that the BS plastic Camaro slave cylinder? Those things didn't work right in Camaros. Heat prone and crack prone. The after market started beefing up their Chevy brackets by using almost a 1/2 thick plate. I've seen how the 1/4 inch Chevy bracket can flex right where it holds the cylinder. I was gonna do mine like that, but iI saw the potential flex when I made the paper template. The bottom hole in my bracket gives the bracket an extra bracing from another angle. No flex so far and I have a stage 3 clutch plate and a stage 2 disc. (Supposed to be good to 500hp. It feels like it)
If it dose flex, I'll go with upping the thickness also.
T

Yes it was the plastic cylinder that you also can’t bleed. Once I figured out the stroke distance wasn’t enough I went searching for cheap factory parts I could use
 
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Danggit, they don't make the Elite for Oldsmobile engines. Oh well, I did look at the headers I want to use and after they get customized, they should clear the slave.
Interesting, hope it is more trouble free. What headers are you using?
 
Interesting, hope it is more trouble free. What headers are you using?
Headman 58160 block hugger shortie. I'm going to weld 3in ball ends to them. That mod will allow them clearance for the Gbody. (There is no room for the 3 bolt flange that come with it. yet it clears all the older 60s and 70s Oldsmobiles.)
58160.jpg
FM 15930.jpg
 
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My Sanderson's just cleared on my 88, those should too. You will need very tight bends, the collectors point down another 2.5" or 3" lower than my Sanderson's. My passenger down pipe was low enough to scrape with 25" tall tires, now 26", it is fine. He did nice tight bends but the control arm is close. Good luck.
 
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Headman 59160 block hugger shortie. I'm going to weld 3in ball ends to them. That mod will allow them clearance for the Gbody. (There is no room for the 3 bolt flange that come with it. yet it clears all the older 60s and 70s Oldsmobiles.)View attachment 98204View attachment 98205
those 2 bolt style flanges are much stronger than the 3 bolt flanges that are used on the headers. I have to cut my 3 bolt flanges off to put on thicker flanges so they don't fold due to heat and loosen up the collector
 
Driving impression. The Howe unit gave me a very heavy pedal feel, but it was almost instant clutch release. The mechanical advantage the clutch fork gives lightened my pedal feel greatly. It feels like the last F-body I drove. (A 96 Z28 Camaro LT1 6spd )
I have to get used to it again.
T
 
Driving impression. The Howe unit gave me a very heavy pedal feel, but it was almost instant clutch release. The mechanical advantage the clutch fork gives lightened my pedal feel greatly. It feels like the last F-body I drove. (A 96 Z28 Camaro LT1 6spd )
I have to get used to it again.
T

when you were using the Howe did you install a stop for the clutch pedal?
 
when you were using the Howe did you install a stop for the clutch pedal?
I did, but it bent and I never fixed it because I never even came close to bottoming the master cylinder out. With the Howe the moment I pressed the pedal, the clutch was starting to disengage. It used about 25% of the full pedal travel.

Funny you mentioned it because I may need to fix it now. The pedal engagement is now more than half of it's travel.
The system bleed itself but it took awhile due to the 24in braided line. I'm ordering a new 14in line in a week. That may firm up the system feel and bleed faster. I hope.
T
 
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I put a stop in so I would not over extend the Howe .. I used an appliance foot with a nut on each side of the firewall for adjustment
 
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