I have to say it looks like you were pretty lucky to have a clean roof under that vinyl top compared to some of the horror stories I have seen on here.
I had some rust in the top quarter window corners, but ya I am pretty lucky.I have to say it looks like you were pretty lucky to have a clean roof under that vinyl top compared to some of the horror stories I have seen on here.
Man i can only pray my roof looks like that when i strip mine. Did you know it was that clean or were you surprised when you saw no rust under there?Little update here.
Now that the garage heater is in and keeping the garage a comfortable temperature, work is resumed. It's taken a while to get everything moved around, unpacked, organized, moved again, etc.... but I have a workshop again.
So, today I decided to finally finish stripping the roof and get ready to fill in the seam lines in the C pillar. So it was paint strippin time.
I did most with my electric DA sander, then I got fed up with the sandpaper getting clogged with adhesive residue from the vinyl top so the strip and clean wheel came out. Way more faster.
View attachment 130086
Heres how the back half stripping came out. I have a few holes to weld up from the trim clips on the back edge of the roof line but it's more or less touched up for filler. In the c pillar.
View attachment 130087View attachment 130088
Thinking the rear window will come out to get the priming done right under it. Plus I dont want to mess it up by cleaning the paint out around the window.
I know a guy that did his on a certain 1980 Cutlass. I plan on stealing the technique and maybe even buying some of his left over supplies. If I recall from his thread he had to buy a 100pack of stud gun pins and used like 10. He might chime in to confirm or deny these allegations.Detail how you are going to do the rear window trim attachment. Most curious how you are going to solve that. I am facing the same issue.
You can always use these.Detail how you are going to do the rear window trim attachment. Most curious how you are going to solve that. I am facing the same issue.
Man i can only pray my roof looks like that when i strip mine. Did you know it was that clean or were you surprised when you saw no rust under there?
I know a guy that did his on a certain 1980 Cutlass. I plan on stealing the technique and maybe even buying some of his left over supplies. If I recall from his thread he had to buy a 100pack of stud gun pins and used like 10. He might chime in to confirm or deny these allegations.
These cars rust proofing is horrible from the factory, you are lucky with only some rust. It really depends on Alberta's Winter salting program, Saskatchewan doesn't go nuts, so the G bodies aren't beyond horrible here.I was naive enough to believe that it didn't have rust under the top when I bought it. I have learned a bit since then. It's a pretty solid car, considering it's a canadian car and probably saw a LOT of winter driving. I was very thorough when I bought it, I wanted rust free. Unfortunately a little snuck past my inspection.
I think it was originally grandmas car, that got donated to a local high school, that was acquired by the guy I got it from so I dont think it had much more than the 84k km or so on the odometer. The bad master cylinder is what I think saved it, seems people thing that's a big job to replace or something.These cars rust proofing is horrible from the factory, you are lucky with only some rust. It really depends on Alberta's Winter salting program, Saskatchewan doesn't go nuts, so the G bodies aren't beyond horrible here.
Gonna need a stud gun anyway, I have a healthy amount of hail damage to fix. The roof, hood and trunk lid have dozens of dings to pull.Indeed I did Duke. Still have lots left over, you’re welcome to however many you need, same goes for you MHM. You guys just PM me with your mailing addresses, and I can easily get them out to you.
Only catch is you have to have (or at least have access to) a stud gun.
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