So today it didnt start. Had work so I didnt put any time into it. However, i did notice the dash lights and needles randomly move. It has a full tank of gas. Sometimes the needle will drop to empty along with the warning lights (ABS, check engine, ect) that are on when the key is on and engine is off, will flash on and off intermittently. Not sure if thats battery running out of voltage or if the ECM looses power or ground. Might pull off all grounds and scuff them down and see if it does something.
The "not have to drive a RWD car in winter" repair
- Thread starter 81cutlass
- Start date
- Status
Since you had the dash out, double check all your grounds are hooked up. I had the gauge needles drop once since the heater core repair, never again. I hate how gutless the 3.9 is but it has been reliable. One of the stupidest things about my Dakota is how it forgets the cold idle when the battery is low, ridiculous. I am planning a 5.9 swap in the future. I surey am glad I didn't get the 4.7. The Challenger was fogging up terrrible inside. It has a broken air door arm in the dash, propped it open to save a $1000 repair or me fighting with it. They are a known problem, should be fixed for free IMHO. Ridiculous they make everything where the dash needs pulled. The drivers power lock also stopped working yesterday too. Probably our shitty climate doesn't help but come on Chrysler, make something pretty and durable.
" checked cam relation to the crank since that can be screwed up and sometimes they shear" did you check both cams, crank and sprockets marks are aligned correctly? Had a hard start issue on y rebuild and one cam was off a tooth... weird part was with stock ecm it would just crank and only start if i gave it throttle.. and no codes were thrown!! i tried a buddy's ecm and it would start right up then die. it would throw a security code of course, so i ordered a replacement ecm and still had the same issues.. :| so i decided to tear the front cover to verify timing alignment marks and set it at tdc and one mark was off.. reset the marks on the cams, idler sprocket and crank. and lo and behold it started right up and idled great.. talk about a pain in the *ss!! :? if the timing is off real bad then the valves will contact the pistons, trust me i know..
That's a good suggestion. There's one on each side with a 10mm bolt through them.olds307 and 403 said:
That sucks that it's fighting you dude...
How'd the Cutlass like the -30* temps we had last week?
How'd the Cutlass like the -30* temps we had last week?
Didnt have to drive it. Didnt put any miles on it since before christmas. Best thing about being home for college and having selection to 4 (working) vehicles. Currently its sitting in the garage under a car cover. I took Dads XJ, he took my durango since I dont have a shop at school.
Ended up putting a crank sensor in it and it started. Not saying its fixed but it seems to run better than ever. But its happened 3 times before so im not counting my eggs before they hatch senario. Thought it was the only sensor I hadnt replaced and it was the last straw before I (gasp!) brought it to some shop in town to throw a better computer on it and see if they can scan for injector and ignition pulse.
Tried taking it out, broke the bolt clip on the side of the sensor. Grabbed with vice grip, broke sensor in half. Unbolted front axle and steering rack, lowered down. Took oil pan bolts off and took out, took oil pickup and windage tray out, turned crank so the throw was against the sensor, pounded sensor into engine with long punch, took chisel and broke sensor off as much as I could inside the block, pushed sensor in more, repeat with chisel. Sensor was stupid brittle. Put oil system and pan back in, put axle and rack back in. Not expect it to start and it did. Fingers crossed it stays working.
Ended up putting a crank sensor in it and it started. Not saying its fixed but it seems to run better than ever. But its happened 3 times before so im not counting my eggs before they hatch senario. Thought it was the only sensor I hadnt replaced and it was the last straw before I (gasp!) brought it to some shop in town to throw a better computer on it and see if they can scan for injector and ignition pulse.
Tried taking it out, broke the bolt clip on the side of the sensor. Grabbed with vice grip, broke sensor in half. Unbolted front axle and steering rack, lowered down. Took oil pan bolts off and took out, took oil pickup and windage tray out, turned crank so the throw was against the sensor, pounded sensor into engine with long punch, took chisel and broke sensor off as much as I could inside the block, pushed sensor in more, repeat with chisel. Sensor was stupid brittle. Put oil system and pan back in, put axle and rack back in. Not expect it to start and it did. Fingers crossed it stays working.
So yeah the motors apart again. Got 500 miles on and started running like garbage like the crank sensor was out again. Gave up and trailered it home
Threw a check engine code for crank-cam sensors not being in time, also developed a noise and would run bad with the cam sensor connected and good with the cam sensor disconnected.
Got 500 miles on the timing chains and they were TRASHED. One of the tensioners was broke and all chains were stretched. The chains were off ebay so I ordered the $350 cloyes setup. Hope that fixes it once and for all.
BTW, im home for spring break so between getting the durango fixed I got the cutlass out from under the car cover, fixed the dash lights, cruise, and leaking rad overflow bottle for the cherokee, and discovered Ive gotta pull the timing cover on the firebird to see where the timing signal is coming from since cylinders 1 and 2 randomly died last fall.
Good news is it was 35 today so I was able to actually be outside. Yay!
Threw a check engine code for crank-cam sensors not being in time, also developed a noise and would run bad with the cam sensor connected and good with the cam sensor disconnected.
Got 500 miles on the timing chains and they were TRASHED. One of the tensioners was broke and all chains were stretched. The chains were off ebay so I ordered the $350 cloyes setup. Hope that fixes it once and for all.
BTW, im home for spring break so between getting the durango fixed I got the cutlass out from under the car cover, fixed the dash lights, cruise, and leaking rad overflow bottle for the cherokee, and discovered Ive gotta pull the timing cover on the firebird to see where the timing signal is coming from since cylinders 1 and 2 randomly died last fall.
Good news is it was 35 today so I was able to actually be outside. Yay!
Man, that looks familiar. I just did heads on a 3.7 in a Liberty at work today. Sorry you have to go back into yours. They sure run nice -- when they're running right.
...Love that International.
...Love that International.
That is a a totally cool tow rig. Never part with it. I miss my Zebra.
Attachments
I laugh at people who think you have to have 600HP, 850ftlb and 25K lbs of towing capacity to tow anything. IH has a rebuilt 345 with the mildest cam you can get and a factory 2 barrel motocraft carb. It has no rear swaybar, 2" drop shackes on the back and with the exception of the 2 miles of really bad road thats bad in anything it was smooth going. Gets 10MPG loaded, 10MPG empty. Only bad thing is the rear wheels have an inch too much BS and the drivers tire rubs the sidewall. If I were to tow anything over 50 miles it would need the shackles taken out or just get some new rims. Trailer has no brakes on it and theres no fancy trailer sway control. Only upgrade is a mid 90's dodge IFS swap to get rid of the leaf sprung bar axle. Your not going to pass anyone or go much faster than 65 but who says you cant be stuck in the 70's. 😀
Zebra dodge looks pretty cool. Cranes a nice touch.
Zebra dodge looks pretty cool. Cranes a nice touch.
- Status
Similar threads
