To Body Mount or To not Body mount. That is my question

Status
Not open for further replies.
when I did mine I had 9 of them with broken bolts so I plasma cut thru the body, removed the cages, got the broken bolts out of the anchors and built new cages for them and welded them back in

I like the way 565bbchevy did his, I had to use the metric bolts which are not cheap and his way sounds easier..
 
TNT has a set of bolts listed for $20 seems kinda cheep for the set, kinda makes me wonder
 
well i said F it and Im going with the solid mounts. $200 later...

I got the bolt kit just in case but ill probably end up getting grade 8 bolts.
 
I did the ones in my malibu in an afternoon, I had the 4 rear bolts break on me, I used a hole saw and honestly haven't bothered to patch the holes back up. They come in handy in the trunk for tie down anchors, so stuff doesn't slide across my trunk and dent my quarters again :lol: . I did one side at a time, meaning I loosened all the bolts a little, then went ahead and removed the passenger side bolts, jack the body r/r mounts bolt back up snug, not tight, then repeated for the driver side. Use the torque spec for those bolts too, 27ft lbs.
 
565bbchevy said:
I had a few of those cage nuts just break loose and spin when I did my body mounts. So I plasma cut holes above them in the floors and after I removed them I used 2" x 2" - 1/4" thick flat washers with a hole in the center then I welded nuts to the washers for the new bolts and then welded the washers to the floor. After I welded the floor shut I would still be able to get my body mount bolts out without ever worrying about them spinning.

The only issue with that is that you have to pretty much be dead nuts on with all of your bolt holes otherwise it'll be tough to get he body aligned and all the bolts started.
That being said I did pretty much the same thing on my 87. I just didn't weld the washers to the body.
 
FE3X CLONE said:
565bbchevy said:
I had a few of those cage nuts just break loose and spin when I did my body mounts. So I plasma cut holes above them in the floors and after I removed them I used 2" x 2" - 1/4" thick flat washers with a hole in the center then I welded nuts to the washers for the new bolts and then welded the washers to the floor. After I welded the floor shut I would still be able to get my body mount bolts out without ever worrying about them spinning.

The only issue with that is that you have to pretty much be dead nuts on with all of your bolt holes otherwise it'll be tough to get he body aligned and all the bolts started.
That being said I did pretty much the same thing on my 87. I just didn't weld the washers to the body.

I installed all my body mounts first and started all my bolts and got everything lined up before I welded any of the plates to the floor exactly for that reason, also I used grade 8 standard bolts since I was not limited by what cage nuts were already in place.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor