To frame notch or not?

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Our # 1 selling kit is the 3/16" by far. Free shipping and no sales tax.

We have seen quarter panels wrinkle when using thin wall. G Body Parts Brian Weaver can back this up (his car).


315 tire on the attached photo and room for more. Using Explorer 8.8 swap kit. Going 335 next season.


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Our # 1 selling kit is the 3/16" by far.

We have seen quarter panels wrinkle when using thin wall. G Body Parts Brian Weaver can back this up (his car).


315 tire on the attached photo and room for more. Using Explorer 8.8 swap kit. Going 335 next season.


View attachment 150435
I have thought about the 3/16 kits, but I’m not sure if my old Hobart can weld that reliably. I’ve thought about cutting the notch panel down to 10 inch or so long sections, and welding in 1/8 plates to create what I can best describe as boxed sections, then welding the notch plate in piece by piece.

Never seen it done and have no idea if it’ll do anything, nor do I know if I need to do that since I have a bar welded in just behind the rear shock mounts, a shock tower brace, and a bar to tie the ends of the rear frame rails together.
 
I have thought about the 3/16 kits, but I’m not sure if my old Hobart can weld that reliably. I’ve thought about cutting the notch panel down to 10 inch or so long sections, and welding in 1/8 plates to create what I can best describe as boxed sections, then welding the notch plate in piece by piece.

Never seen it done and have no idea if it’ll do anything, nor do I know if I need to do that since I have a bar welded in just behind the rear shock mounts, a shock tower brace, and a bar to tie the ends of the rear frame rails together.

Some guys will do separate cavity's such as you are describing. Not really needed if using a back brace near the upper shock mounts.
 
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