Torque Converter Recommendations Needed.

[MrSony]

I've decided it would not be a great idea to use a tc from a blown up Th350 on my new TH350, should I get one so I need some recommendations on buying a new one as I haven't bought one before. I would like one with 2,000-2,500 stall. I've read that if you get a converter with a stall of what you drive at a lot it will ruin it, i.e. I run at 2500rpm with 2.29 gears and my Th350 and if I were to get a 2,500rpm stall it would slip a lot and over heat. Is this true? Also I've heard tork master B&M are sh*t and to get a holeshot if I go with B&M. I've also read that you should just call up the dudes and get a custom one built. Should I? is it more expensive?


Any input is appreciated.

 

[Bar50]

You are correct, use a new converter in your new transmission to avoid contamination.

I would advise you to call a torque converter company and see what they advise.

There are some factory application converters that might suit your combo, they is a very high (numerically low) rearend gear ratio. You are also correct, that if your cruise range is below the stall lockup speed it will be slipping and generating heat.

 

[el corvino]

eh.... only if it's a daily driver. 3800 stall on my Grand National with a T-88. Needed at least that size to spool the turbo from a dig and it does fine cruising.... but obviously not a daily driver.

 

[MrSony]

I've been thinking about getting a 2,000rpm stall. I think it's a happy medium for my needs. I have 2.29 gears in it right now, but I hope to change it to a 3.23 or as high as 3.42 and keeping the Th350. right now on a flat road I at 35-40mph with my foot off the gas at 1100rpm with the stock converter. Or for now I might just get a new/reman Dacco unit from the parts store for 130 bucks with the stock 1100 or so stall speed.

 

[el corvino]

If you aren't pushing big numbers and trying to get out of the hole fast.... I wouldn't worry all that much, especially with those gears. Highway gears get better MPGs and lower RPMs

 

[Texas82GP]

I would talk to a few converter companies to see what they recommend. I would also talk to a few transmission parts suppliers to see what they think. The guy that runs the transmission parts house I use is a knowledgeable guy and is good at helping with converter selection.

 

[L92 OLDS]

Remember that not all stalls are created equal. Most budget converters use crappy modified factory housing and pump parts. They usually end up being way to loose. I have one like this in my truck and hate it around town. I bought a 3200 Stall Circle D billet converter for my 442. A quality converter will drive normal while getting the groceries but then stall at a much higher RPM when you put your foot in it. Circle D, Yank, and Vigilante are favorites with the LS crowd. If you are worried about heat at cruising speed buy a lock up stall converter.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...0-900-torque-converter-what-would-you-do.html

http://www.circledspecialties.com/p-45-gm-258mm-pro-ii-4l80e-torque-converter.aspx

Below is a crappy summit converter on E bay. Its just a modified factory converter.

 

[lilbowtie]

The stall of the convertor will depend on the output of the engine unless the convertor was specifically built for your combo. I am a big fan of custom built convertor that takes your complete combo into consideration. It's not cheap but you get what you pay for. In your case you are pretty much a stock street car and you would probably shutter at what I have paid for convertors. I'm with El Corvino and just put a good generic convertor in it raising the stall if you want. Have you pulled the pan on your trans??

 

[MrSony]

The stall of the convertor will depend on the output of the engine unless the convertor was specifically built for your combo. I am a big fan of custom built convertor that takes your complete combo into consideration. It's not cheap but you get what you pay for. In your case you are pretty much a stock street car and you would probably shutter at what I have paid for convertors. I'm with El Corvino and just put a good generic convertor in it raising the stall if you want. Have you pulled the pan on your trans??

Oh I don't have to pull the pan to know it's toast. Fluid is black and smells like burnt toast. It's garbage. And yeah, any TC over 350 bucks is a leap for my. I might just go with a Dacco unit like I said for like 100 bucks with a warranty from the local parts store. If I can't find a transmission by halloween I'll just suck it up and just save for a TCI unit or similar and shove it in there. Along with regasketing (leaky front of oil pan gasket, mist erywher) the motor and doing a general inspection 5500 miles later. Plus I'll probably have better gears in it at the same time. Probably next spring as my car is immobile now.

 

[transman]

A stock TH350 non lock-up converter has a factory stall of around 1200-1400 rpm. It is a 12" unit and if used behind a Chev. engine had 3 mounting tangs, behind a Olds/Buick/Pontiac engine used 3 threaded mounting pads. For your setup, I see no reason to use anything other than a stock converter. If and when you make more horsepower, change axle ratios etc., then contact a converter builder, give him all the specs on your combination and see what he recommends BEST FOR YOUR SETUP. If you go to www.tcsproducts.com, they have a spec sheet you can look at to see what is needed to get you a converter.
At all costs, avoid used converters, as you don't know what they have been through and what their internal condition is like. In the years I spent in the industry, I saw many "rattle can" rebuilt high stalls.