track times

[FE3X CLONE]

It will lite the tires up at 1/8 throttle easy. I'm hoping I'll be faster than a 13.9.

You have more work done to the heads so I don't doubt you will.

Mine had terrible traction out of the hole. I would have to leave the line at part throttle and then hit it further out so that I wouldn't spin. I could never get anything better than a 2.2-2.3 second 60' on street tires.

 

[1Bad4558]

Mine seems to do half way decent on the street when I have my slicks on. You can get in it half way once you heat those slicks up good. Can't wait to get it tho the track tho

 

[GhettoRacingKid]

Make sure you pinion angle is good and of you can set your instant center.

Gbodys hook if you set the suspension right. B

 

[LS1GN]

Make sure you pinion angle is good and of you can set your instant center.

Gbodys hook if you set the suspension right. B

Yeah, I'm with GRK on this. My motor makes about 475 real-world horsepower, but my quarter times were lousy because it would just spin through first and sometimes a bit in second. My 60 foot times were in the 2.0 neighborhood and my ETs were around 12.5

Making power is only one component to a good drag car. The factory control arm angles need to be adjusted (I used anti-hop brackets) the lower control arms are under compression and they can deflect - so that is a fix (the uppers are under tension so they're good to go stock). When the car hooks up, then parts start to break, ask me how I know 🙁

 

[GhettoRacingKid]

Yup. Breaking stuff sucks. This was my own fault. I didnt have enough clearence. Shook the car down. Bent my upper control arm.

I suggest to everyone. Get adjustable upper and lower control arms. Then you can set your pinion angle and instant center.

Our cars work, just need to set the suspension.

 

[lilbowtie]

Make sure you pinion angle is good and of you can set your instant center.

Gbodys hook if you set the suspension right. B

Yeah, I'm with GRK on this. My motor makes about 475 real-world horsepower, but my quarter times were lousy because it would just spin through first and sometimes a bit in second. My 60 foot times were in the 2.0 neighborhood and my ETs were around 12.5

Making power is only one component to a good drag car. The factory control arm angles need to be adjusted (I used anti-hop brackets) the lower control arms are under compression and they can deflect - so that is a fix (the uppers are under tension so they're good to go stock). When the car hooks up, then parts start to break, ask me how I know 🙁

With 475 HP you should be in the low 11's, what is your Mph. I never had any problems with the stock suspension hooking - wondering if it's track prep.

 

[thrasher]

With 475 HP you should be in the low 11's, what is your Mph. I never had any problems with the stock suspension hooking - wondering if it's track prep.

Some calculators that work pretty well for stuff like this:

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/tech/index.html

http://www.richmondgear.com/112901.html

http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm

 

[GhettoRacingKid]

Love the wallace racing calcs.

 

[LS1GN]

I've only owned two G bodies but I have owned/raced cars with four link type suspensions for 9 years now. I do not think G body rear suspensions are set up for optimal drag racing in stock form.

With my current rear suspension setup (and pretty bald drag radials) I was spinning at the bottom of second gear yesterday at 50 mph.

 

[LS1GN]

With 475 HP you should be in the low 11's, what is your Mph. I never had any problems with the stock suspension hooking - wondering if it's track prep.

Some calculators that work pretty well for stuff like this:

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/tech/index.html

http://www.richmondgear.com/112901.html

http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm

473 peak hp on an engine dyno. Of course, once its bolted it in the car, run accessories, and run it through a transmission and rear there are losses. I was trying to respond to the OP and suggest that a fast car is more than just a power number.