Trunk Firewall

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DSPbuilt

G-Body Guru
Jan 7, 2016
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Cape Coral, FL
So in the pursuit of "perfection" I have been thinking of ways to make the car modern feeling and comfortable.
I kind of get ideas and stuff the more I drive and get annoyed by things. One thing that is bothering lately is the back seat rubbing and causing a squeak. That'll be fixed with the factory style padding and acoustic foam tape to isolate seat framing from contacting the body. I have been planning on doing the "X-brace" but I am also wanting to do a firewall for added "sound deadening". Has anyone here made their own and care to share pic for ideas or recommend a brand.
I was looking this one. http://buickgn.com/trunkfirewall.htm
Also this one from Scott Rod Fab which I have experience with their Mustang parts in the past and love the quality of their products. http://scottrodfab.com/shop/index.php?id_product=112&controller=product#/color-satin_black
 
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The 1st one covers the 'over axle' area. So where do you mount the battery, master disconnect switch and remainder of the wiring/relays/etc.? I'm not a fan of anything that limits space of you want to street drive the car. I have mounted batteries in that location on 3 different cars along with the remaining goodies.

The second covers the rear seat mounts - how is that going to work for a functional back seat or stop squeaking?

Both seem quite reasonably priced, but are either considered HRA legal for a firewall? It seems like if they were, then the listings for each would indicate that. I can't recall exactly how the rule book reads, but I thought it had to be a solid piece of steel or aluminum that would be blow out resistant to a battery explosion.

I have made two from .060 aluminum truck body panels. I had to pull the rear seat at Island for tech inspection and was actually commended on it by the track inspector. This was after a tongue lashing about a couple of other things that I nodded and agreed to (anything to keep from getting tossed before I get to the line lol.) All of mine have cost me 3-4 bandaids (I get the panels for free) and the visual effect of advertising for a tire shop, Shred-it or whatever truck they came off from.

Of course I couldn't locate a photo of one installed. I'll keep looking.


Do you intend to race this? Or are you already racing it?
 
These are my home made braces made from 1 1/2in steel bar stock. I used steel rivets at each end as well as attaching to the original braces. I notice that many G Bodies don't have any braces at all and some do.
As far as noise I put down carpet underlayment on the floor as well as between the seat back and the trunk. Not shown is the tape wrap on the seat cushion frames where they lock into the tabs both on the back and bottom cushions. That prevents the metal to metal contact.
 

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The 1st one covers the 'over axle' area. So where do you mount the battery, master disconnect switch and remainder of the wiring/relays/etc.? I'm not a fan of anything that limits space of you want to street drive the car. I have mounted batteries in that location on 3 different cars along with the remaining goodies.

The second covers the rear seat mounts - how is that going to work for a functional back seat or stop squeaking?

Both seem quite reasonably priced, but are either considered HRA legal for a firewall? It seems like if they were, then the listings for each would indicate that. I can't recall exactly how the rule book reads, but I thought it had to be a solid piece of steel or aluminum that would be blow out resistant to a battery explosion.

I have made two from .060 aluminum truck body panels. I had to pull the rear seat at Island for tech inspection and was actually commended on it by the track inspector. This was after a tongue lashing about a couple of other things that I nodded and agreed to (anything to keep from getting tossed before I get to the line lol.) All of mine have cost me 3-4 bandaids (I get the panels for free) and the visual effect of advertising for a tire shop, Shred-it or whatever truck they came off from.

Of course I couldn't locate a photo of one installed. I'll keep looking.


Do you intend to race this? Or are you already racing it?
I do plan race but likely nothing serious, probably just to get PBs. I don't want to have to put a cage as the kids love riding in it. Being realistic though, that can always change. Even if do plan to race competitively I would always want it to be a full interior car.
the Scott Rod one does state that it is NHRA legal. The other doesn't say anything about it.
I have made some before on a buddies fox and on a turbo civic for a buddy as well. Making one from scratch won't be an issue I just value my time now a days more than before the kids. Plus starting with something that is cut nicely and and bead rolled it a big plus. lol
as for it cover the seat mount I don't think it would be too difficult to mod it or find a another to mount the seat back. the listing states it doesn't block the lower seat from being mounted.

Edit: completely forgot to talk about the battery. As of right now it's in the spare well. but I do plan to move as I might do a delete panel and put the trans cooler If I stay auto. If I do end up going manual I want to put a delete panel but hinged and build a box that is better suited for the battery.
My relay/fuse panel is currently on the area right behind the but I think I'm going to order the Current performance PnP fan/FP relay box since its so small and compact and it's Plug and Play for the Termi X
 
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These are my home made braces made from 1 1/2in steel bar stock. I used steel rivets at each end as well as attaching to the original braces. I notice that many G Bodies don't have any braces at all and some do.
As far as noise I put down carpet underlayment on the floor as well as between the seat back and the trunk. Not shown is the tape wrap on the seat cushion frames where they lock into the tabs both on the back and bottom cushions. That prevents the metal to metal contact.
I've seen a few people that have made them and that is definitely simple enough to make. This is likely what I will be doing as well.
 
‘Delete panel’ - for the spare tire?

Seeing you don’t have acage, and no nhra cert needed, then putting in a brace is a definitely a good thing. From a safety standpoint, if the battery is in the spare tire hole, then I wouldn’t feel the need for a firewall. If the battery is above the rear axle, then definitely should have one. And that goes double if your kids are in the back seat.

Would like to see a pic of your current battery setup. Do you have a master disconnect?
 
They are fancier than anything I ever had. NHRA rules is 0.032" aluminum or 0.024" Steel bulkhead. Thats it. Doesn't say how many pieces just that the trunk is sealed off from direct flames. Its just there so you can get out. Its not there to prevent the fire from ever getting through.
 
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‘Delete panel’ - for the spare tire?

Seeing you don’t have acage, and no nhra cert needed, then putting in a brace is a definitely a good thing. From a safety standpoint, if the battery is in the spare tire hole, then I wouldn’t feel the need for a firewall. If the battery is above the rear axle, then definitely should have one. And that goes double if your kids are in the back seat.

Would like to see a pic of your current battery setup. Do you have a master disconnect?
I don’t only wanna do it for nhra rules. I also want it for sound isolation and I feel that as long as it’s mounted right it along with the x brace
You can see the panel here, it not the prettiest and kinda messy. I kinda just tossed it in there to get the car running and never really got a round to cleaning it up. Especially since I always planned on getting a smaller actual fuse/relay box.
The battery is under the box of muffins 😂
58BCB72C-B0A3-484E-A40B-42D1E4626333.jpeg
 
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