when i worked at the shop we had steel "u" shaped shims of different thicknesses. you probably could just get large washers and cut a channel in them, but i think the parts stores do carry kits of various sizes.
tubular upper a-arms
- Thread starter megaladon6
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depends on the alighnment specs before correction.
off the top of my head, stock is probably 0* camber, 5* positive caster on the right (p/s), 3* pos caster on the left (d/s) and .05* toe in. for better performance you want to run negative camber. .5-1* neg will usually not affect tire wear but will help the car stick better. as long as the caster is positive on both sides and the pass. side is higher you'll be ok, it may wander a bit depending on the road crown.
off the top of my head, stock is probably 0* camber, 5* positive caster on the right (p/s), 3* pos caster on the left (d/s) and .05* toe in. for better performance you want to run negative camber. .5-1* neg will usually not affect tire wear but will help the car stick better. as long as the caster is positive on both sides and the pass. side is higher you'll be ok, it may wander a bit depending on the road crown.
that's why i don't think i'll ever buy from baer, at least as long as kore3 is around. $900 for the kit and brakets including the new aluminum hub vs 1300 for a brake kit and brakets. hmmm which way would you go?
although it's something of a moot point now. i'm going to get the AFX spindles. forged aluminum, near zero bump steer, MUCH better geometry, c5 brakes mount straight on, and HD c6 bearings for a couple hundred more. 😀
although it's something of a moot point now. i'm going to get the AFX spindles. forged aluminum, near zero bump steer, MUCH better geometry, c5 brakes mount straight on, and HD c6 bearings for a couple hundred more. 😀
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