Two prong oil pressure sensor

[78Delta88]

Pics below...

Switch is normally open SPST pressure operated. I was thinking it should be a NO switch but wasn't sure. I think it was 9 psi or 12 I'll have to check.

I'll go back read your post, send you schematic.

Got to go paint a car right now.

 

[78Delta88]

Pics below...

Switch is normally open SPST pressure operated. I was thinking it should be a NO switch but wasn't sure. I think it was 9 psi or 12 I'll have to check.

I'll go back read your post, send you schematic.

Got to go paint a car right now.

I actually went to the standard site to get concept of operation and factory specs, their site is b**bs on a bullfrog use full.

78 diagram shows as grounding which is NC, normally closed, yet it appears as one spade is NC and the other is NO, normally open. If that is the case, that is easy to wire. It just has to be wired correctly or your dash light will be always on or it will never work.

PS226 is the TBI one I'm familiar with. Closes the FP circuit and opens when no oil pressure, I.e.: engine is shut off.

On yours you want switch closed with oil pressure to run the FP, E-Choke, Excite for Alternator.

Then the reverse..., switch closed, grounds "oil" light when no oil pressure. So essentially a flip flop switch.

Very easy to wire I just want to make sure telling you correctly

I found one piece of it and I guess the 126T is ceramic disk that operates it. I was always under the impression the one you showed was simple SPST Spring operated but I guess not.

I'm just going to buy one and hook up to air to verify operation. Once I verify operation, wiring it is the easy part.

I'm doing a TBI to carb conversion so I need to get one any how, don't like to use the old junk.

 

[Baker7888]

I actually went to the standard site to get concept of operation and factory specs, their site is b**bs on a bullfrog use full.

78 diagram shows as grounding which is NC, normally closed, yet it appears as one spade is NC and the other is NO, normally open. If that is the case, that is easy to wire. It just has to be wired correctly or your dash light will be always on or it will never work.

PS226 is the TBI one I'm familiar with. Closes the FP circuit and opens when no oil pressure, I.e.: engine is shut off.

On yours you want switch closed with oil pressure to run the FP, E-Choke, Excite for Alternator.

Then the reverse..., switch closed, grounds "oil" light when no oil pressure. So essentially a flip flop switch.

Very easy to wire I just want to make sure telling you correctly

I found one piece of it and I guess the 126T is ceramic disk that operates it. I was always under the impression the one you showed was simple SPST Spring operated but I guess not.

I'm just going to buy one and hook up to air to verify operation. Once I verify operation, wiring it is the easy part.

I'm doing a TBI to carb conversion so I need to get one any how, don't like to use the old junk.

I should have been more specific. When asked for a pic in post #9, I went to look for the sensor I bought and for some reason it is no longer listed. I went back to my order history to find it, so below is the ACTUAL sensor I am using. I think they are one and the same but I just wanna make sure the info is correct on my end.

 

[Baker7888]

Was just thinking ... at some point I will need to run a Wye. I have a small 3 gauge cluster I am going to be running under the dash (batt/oil/temp) so I will likely have to tap in that location for oil pressure. Wondering if I should just run a Wye with one side being the Holley safety switch (above) and the other side being for my oil pressure gauge. Really just want a clean install and avoid clutter. Hence why I wanted to try and utilize existing wiring. Thoughts?

 

[78Delta88]

Was just thinking ... at some point I will need to run a Wye. I have a small 3 gauge cluster I am going to be running under the dash (batt/oil/temp) so I will likely have to tap in that location for oil pressure. Wondering if I should just run a Wye with one side being the Holley safety switch (above) and the other side being for my oil pressure gauge. Really just want a clean install and avoid clutter. Hence why I wanted to try and utilize existing wiring. Thoughts?

I'll build one and show the hook ups. You want everything to go through power relay. This is how I build them. It's easy and clean install no clutter.

 

[78Delta88]

I'll try this out today. I'm curious too, how these work. One thing always taken for granted, never thought much about them.

So curious what pressure do they open/close.

When will the light work? Will it work? Why or why not?

Between the spade connectors to ground about 300 thousand ohms each.

 

[78Delta88]

It's hard to see in the sun light, but the switch wired as shown above closes at about 5 to 6 psi. The air regulator unit isn't super high quality so maybe +/- 5psi?

But does show switch closes with normal oil pressure.

Light is off when I disconnect pressure. So yes, this switch would work as a fuel pump safety.

Above 6 psi electricity flows, with no pressure, electricity stops flowing.

 

[Baker7888]

It's hard to see in the sun light, but the switch wired as shown above closes at about 5 to 6 psi. The air regulator unit isn't super high quality so maybe +/- 5psi?

But does show switch closes with normal oil pressure.

Light is off when I disconnect pressure. So yes, this switch would work as a fuel pump safety.

Above 6 psi electricity flows, with no pressure, electricity stops flowing.

Thanks for the info. These are the instructions for the Holley switch. It says to use in conjunction with the existing switch so I am wondering if I should just go with that

 

[78Delta88]

Thanks for the info. These are the instructions ....

Their diagram will work, their switch is marked, yet it seems to show that pump is energized by cranking, then control passes to the oil pressure switch after engine starts. It shows that priming of the system is done during cranking, which might be a problem, but maybe not. Won't know until it's tried.

It then shows power going to the coil and then the distributor. The coil works on the ground side and this is true for solid state or a points system. If your HEI is going to be connecting through its current GM method path, It should work just fine. No wiring to the distributor needs changed in that event.

Pics below is simple hook up, although it just the hard wire setup, when in reality it needs a fuse and should have a power relay. For simplicity sake, pics below. The manual switch primes and then once the engine starts you shut off the switch. Once the engine is running, 12vdc power to the pump goes through the oil pressure switch (OPS). The light is just in the circuit as an example of load, in reality the fuel pump would be replacing where the lamp is.

The extra white wire coming out of the switch can be omitted if not needed. The brown wire would be connected to the OPS, but I ran out of connectors. Electrically the way it is wired it's the same.

The priming switch by passes the OPS until the engine is running, then after engine starts it is shut off, 12vdc moves through the OPS to keep FP running.

 

[Baker7888]

Their diagram will work, their switch is marked, yet it seems to show that pump is energized by cranking, then control passes to the oil pressure switch after engine starts. It shows that priming of the system is done during cranking, which might be a problem, but maybe not. Won't know until it's tried.

It then shows power going to the coil and then the distributor. The coil works on the ground side and this is true for solid state or a points system. If your HEI is going to be connecting through its current GM method path, It should work just fine. No wiring to the distributor needs changed in that event.

Pics below is simple hook up, although it just the hard wire setup, when in reality it needs a fuse and should have a power relay. For simplicity sake, pics below. The manual switch primes and then once the engine starts you shut off the switch. Once the engine is running, 12vdc power to the pump goes through the oil pressure switch (OPS). The light is just in the circuit as an example of load, in reality the fuel pump would be replacing where the lamp is.

The extra white wire coming out of the switch can be omitted if not needed. The brown wire would be connected to the OPS, but I ran out of connectors. Electrically the way it is wired it's the same.

The priming switch by passes the OPS until the engine is running, then after engine starts it is shut off, 12vdc moves through the OPS to keep FP running.

Thank you for this. I got buried in frame repair which thankfully is almost done. I splurged and got a posi unit and gears for the 7.5 while it's out. So hopefully fuel pump wiring will be right around the corner.