Unwanted Chime

[GRNCH]

Hi PontiacGP,

Thank you for responding!

The car came from the factory with cruise control, however, the cc assembly was taken out when the aftermarket throttle body was installed. I went back under the dash and here's what I found:

My GN has two plunger switches attached to the brake pedal. The one I've been referring to is the bottom one and has two connectors.

One connector has 3 wires: orange, white and blue/black stripe. The orange has constant power. The blue/black wire gets power when the brake is pressed and sends power to the third brake light. The white wire I believe goes to the hazard assembly?

The second (top) plunger switch has a vacuum hose and three wires attached to it. Two wires are pink/black stripe and the last one is purple. I believe these are for the transmission and torque converter lock-up.

There is a loose 5-wire connector that I haven't found a place for (pic attached) . I was thinking it plugged into the cruise control module, which is no longer in the car.

Thoughts? Thanks!

-GRNCH

 

[GRNCH]

PROBLEM SOLVED!

Hi all,

I'm very please to report that the problem has been solved. After 6 months of searching, researching and using the process of elimination, I discovered that there were three sources of unwanted current bleed into the brown wire causing the parking lights (and therefore the chime and dash lights) to come on when pressing the brake pedal. The three sources were:

1. An alarm installer tied into the brown wire instead of the dome light circuit;
2. Rear brake light LEDs bled current into the brown wire causing the parking lights etc. to come on when the brake pedal was pressed;
3. The front turn signal LEDs caused the dash lights and chime to turn on when hazard lights were turned on.

The solution was to rewire the alarm and install rectifier diodes on the brown wires at each LED bulb (two per brake light housing and two at the front bumper). Rectifier diodes are about 65 cents each and can be bought in 10, 15 and 25 packs on Amazon or Radio Shack. I used 1.5a 1000v, which are perfect for this problem. If you need to block a larger bleed current, use a diode that can handle more amps.

Note that one side of the diode has a silver strip which serves as an arrow head and should be installed with the wanted current flowing towards the silver striped end of the diode. Attached are two pics: What the diodes look like and a diode installed (before solder & heat shrink). For those who want a detailed analysis of the problem and what I did to trouble-shoot, I've attached a pdf to help you.

Now I to fix a stuck wastegate and I'll be ready to sell my GN. Yes, after 30 years, it's time to let it go. I don't have the time or the tools (since they were all stolen) to maintain it anymore. Don't worry, I'm not getting old. I've ordered a Challenger Demon! Once it's fixed, I'll post the details on the "cars for sale" section of the board.

If you have any questions, you can email me at [email protected].

Cheers!

 

[fleming442]

PROBLEM SOLVED!

Hi all,

I'm very please to report that the problem has been solved. After 6 months of searching, researching and using the process of elimination, I discovered that there were three sources of unwanted current bleed into the brown wire causing the parking lights (and therefore the chime and dash lights) to come on when pressing the brake pedal. The three sources were:

1. An alarm installer tied into the brown wire instead of the dome light circuit;
2. Rear brake light LEDs bled current into the brown wire causing the parking lights etc. to come on when the brake pedal was pressed;
3. The front turn signal LEDs caused the dash lights and chime to turn on when hazard lights were turned on.

The solution was to rewire the alarm and install rectifier diodes on the brown wires at each LED bulb (two per brake light housing and two at the front bumper). Rectifier diodes are about 65 cents each and can be bought in 10, 15 and 25 packs on Amazon or Radio Shack. I used 1.5a 1000v, which are perfect for this problem. If you need to block a larger bleed current, use a diode that can handle more amps.

Note that one side of the diode has a silver strip which serves as an arrow head and should be installed with the wanted current flowing towards the silver striped end of the diode. Attached are two pics: What the diodes look like and a diode installed (before solder & heat shrink). For those who want a detailed analysis of the problem and what I did to trouble-shoot, I've attached a pdf to help you.

Now I to fix a stuck wastegate and I'll be ready to sell my GN. Yes, after 30 years, it's time to let it go. I don't have the time or the tools (since they were all stolen) to maintain it anymore. Don't worry, I'm not getting old. I've ordered a Challenger Demon! Once it's fixed, I'll post the details on the "cars for sale" section of the board.

If you have any questions, you can email me at [email protected].

Cheers!
View attachment 75918 View attachment 75919

Not to sound like a smart@$$, but the 'D' in LED is diode; they don't backfeed or bleed anything.
Alarms usually flash the parking lights for arm and disarm. I think you got lucky somewhere......

 

[pontiacgp]

Not to sound like a smart@$$, but the 'D' in LED is diode; they don't backfeed or bleed anything.
Alarms usually flash the parking lights for arm and disarm. I think you got lucky somewhere......

agreed, I have seen resistors put in a line where the bulb has been changed to an LED but that is only because of the low resistance in the LED

and for the diodes although they have a indicator which way the current flows I always do quick test before I install them.

 

[GRNCH]

Hi,
I believe you are both correct. The low resistance in the LEDs caused the voltage bleed. There are You Tube videos out there addressing this. I just didn't know that was one of the causes, so didn't know what to search for.

Thanks to everyone for your help!

 

[pontiacgp]

Hi,
I believe you are both correct. The low resistance in the LEDs caused the voltage bleed. There are You Tube videos out there addressing this. I just didn't know that was one of the causes, so didn't know what to search for.

Thanks to everyone for your help!

what do you mean by "voltage bleed"