Upper Control Arms Installed Backwards... path forward?

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HK_Camino

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May 25, 2021
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Houston
hey guys, so I finally took my '86 el camino off jacks today after a total engine and front end rebuild. When I did the upper control arm on the driver side split a brake line and I realized that I installed the upper control arms backwards. They are marked R and L but I somehow missed that and installed "R" on the driver side and "L" on the passenger side.

Sorta a gut punch, and initially I was just going to have it towed to a shop and have them fix the situation along with doing an alignment... I don't have a ton of heart left to tear back into the front end, and I also need the car running ASAP.

But, as I'm thinking about it, maybe swapping the upper control arms wouldn't be too bad. If I can avoid having to remove the wheel hub and use a jack instead of a spring compressor, then maybe the job wouldn't be too bad.

Has anyone ONLY replaced upper control arms, and if so can you give me an idea of how it went? Trying to decide between tearing back into it and just having it towed to the shop.

Thanks
 
hey guys, so I finally took my '86 el camino off jacks today after a total engine and front end rebuild. When I did the upper control arm on the driver side split a brake line and I realized that I installed the upper control arms backwards. They are marked R and L but I somehow missed that and installed "R" on the driver side and "L" on the passenger side.

Sorta a gut punch, and initially I was just going to have it towed to a shop and have them fix the situation along with doing an alignment... I don't have a ton of heart left to tear back into the front end, and I also need the car running ASAP.

But, as I'm thinking about it, maybe swapping the upper control arms wouldn't be too bad. If I can avoid having to remove the wheel hub and use a jack instead of a spring compressor, then maybe the job wouldn't be too bad.

Has anyone ONLY replaced upper control arms, and if so can you give me an idea of how it went? Trying to decide between tearing back into it and just having it towed to the shop.

Thanks
Its a pain in the butt no matter what but if you do it yourself you'll save the money youre going to spend having it done at a shop.
 
Simple, jack up the front end until the tires are JUST off the ground. Loosen the nut on the upper balljoint, smack the spindle with a hammer and break the upper joint free from the spindle, remove two nuts holding the upper arm to the frame, repeat for opposite side. Should come apart very easy if you just assembled it all.
 
I had the same issue. I didn't have an engine or the front end installed at the time. I would say the safe way is using a spring compressor. If your elky is complete, go through old threads. There are other ways guys have done it.

I used it as an opportunity to change to different springs. They aren't that expensive and if your that far into it, it's a good time to swap them.

Parts stores usually have the spring tool on there loan a tool. It would just be time.
 
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Simple, jack up the front end until the tires are JUST off the ground. Loosen the nut on the upper balljoint, smack the spindle with a hammer and break the upper joint free from the spindle, remove two nuts holding the upper arm to the frame, repeat for opposite side. Should come apart very easy if you just assembled it all.
Thanks man, hearing someone else say what I was thinking is the confirmation bias I was looking for and gives me some more energy to push forward with doing it myself. I indeed just assembled it all with new parts, so I'm hoping the new ball joints will come off the spindle easier than the 30 year old ones did, lol.
 
I had the same issue. I didn't have an engine or the front end installed at the time. I would say the safe way is using a spring compressor. If your elky is complete, go through old threads. There are other ways guys have done it.

I used it as an opportunity to change to different springs. They aren't that expensive and if your that far into it, it's a good time to swap them.

Parts stores usually have the spring tool on there loan a tool. It would just be time.
Good to know I'm not the only one out there who has made this mistake, lol... I already replaced the springs and shocks with new units last week when I was rebuilding the front end, so i just have to worry about getting the upper control arms swapped around correctly.

good point on the loaner spring compressor.
 
Simple, jack up the front end until the tires are JUST off the ground. Loosen the nut on the upper balljoint, smack the spindle with a hammer and break the upper joint free from the spindle, remove two nuts holding the upper arm to the frame, repeat for opposite side. Should come apart very easy if you just assembled it all.
follow up question - if the car is only jacked up so that the tires are just off the ground, then once the upper control arm is removed wouldn't the spring want to come flying out the top? even though the sprung weight is off of the springs, they still seem somewhat compressed just between the upper and lower control arms, but maybe I'm mistaken.
 
The spring is between the frame and lower control arm. Jack up the car and put stands under the lower control arms as far to the outside as possible. The shock will keep the spring from coming out, they really were not designed to do this but i have never had one fail (If you are concerned one could chain the springs to the frame).

Take it apart and change side to side.

The ball joint comes apart pretty easy with an air hammer.
 
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gotcha, that clears it up for me. I was thinking the spring was between the two control arms rather than between the frame and the lower arm. Thanks!!
 
Great recommendations. If the engine is in the car, you'll be miles ahead by just jacking it up and putting it on jack stands under the lower A-arms previously described. Leave the front shocks installed. They can help keep things under the car in case something goes awry.

Be careful with your pickle fork going in after your new ball joint if you go that route to split the ball joint from the spindle. If you tear the boot you'll be taking it off. If it's bolted in, you can replace it easy if you had to, but since it's new and freshly installed, I'm betting just a few love taps may get that thing loose. Don't have to deal with corrosion in there fighting you.

Good luck!
 
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