Use/don't use stainless flex pipe-Modding Pypes down pipes

[pagrunt]

Might want one of these. They are basically ball collectors that allow 15 degrees of rotation, easy connection, and have a small clamp.

Not cheap however for what it is.

https://www.mufflermonster.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=2434

That looks like a better route than the flex pipe & it's stainless.
Not being able to weld stainless doesn't help me on this part of the project. I have been looking at Jegs & Summit for what pipes they have to make it work right. Even checked to see what if any manifold/head pipe gasket donut there is to get alittle rotation at the manifold. From what the opinion is avoid the flex pipe. But I'll use a cheap one for checking angles to see what I'll need with either a proper angled pipe of ball collector. Thanks for the input. Sorry if this seems to jump around, the Jr. mechanic keeps getting me to check out his driving skills on the Play Station.

 

[fleming442]

Wide band clamps fix all exhaust woes. Love those things!

 

[motorheadmike]

I bought these and they seem fine. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-5-Exhaus...g-Interlock-/121598310934?hash=item1c4fd2fa16

 

[pagrunt]

Might of found something on the Pypes site that could be a fix with the down pipe angle. Pypes TGF20E adapter bends for the T/A tailpipe splitters. They take up less real estate than the braided flex pipe if they work. I'm going to check with them for the angle degree.

 

[pagrunt]

Got some pics of what I'm doing with the exhaust. Still in a mock up stage, but got things into position to see what I'll need to do/order. the drivers side still angles up to the crossmember & leaves a gap at the rearof the manifold/flange. The passenger side I swapped out the gutted older exhaust valve with the one off my later 3 bolt manifold to get a better fit/angle, now I'll need to add an elbow after the bend line the pipes & cat. I wish I had something to get a better idea of the angle I need for each side other that a flex pipe being used just for mocking an angle. I'm not cutting anything untill I get what I am believing that will work. I'll be getting a pair of Pypes adapter elbows for Firebird tail spitters to start with. The Heart Throb euro joints may be an addition buy but at $50 standard shipping for two sets kills the idea. If someone know where I could get them with cheaper shipping please let me know. Even if there is someone else who carries a simular stainless set. I'll be also getting another newer type exhaust valve to mod up with out the inner flap.

 

[motorheadmike]

I just used pie cuts to get mine to work on the driver's side. https://gbodyforum.com/threads/1980...-4l80e-installation.49375/page-37#post-553707 For as spacious as the G-Force cross member appears to be - the use of full sized cats makes it very limiting.

https://www.google.ca/search?q=exha...-ab&gfe_rd=cr&dcr=0&ei=OIecWq7mOsbT8Aefvqf4Ag

 

[pagrunt]

Not set up for welding in the garage so the pie cuts are a no go for now. I am thinking about swapping a the cats out for the round type that are about an 1" narrower. With the old exhaust had the cats off the Hedmans so they sat closer to the clutch than the crossmember. Vibrant has stainless bellows that might be an solution but the welding issue comes back.

 

[565bbchevy]

Time to buy a welder.

 

[motorheadmike]

You don't have the means to use a 110V hobby welder? Even something in the 80-90A range will do exhaust pipe.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016R0FCSQ/?tag=gbody-20

 

[pagrunt]

I have to rewire the garage, house work comes first. Gotta keep the wife happy. But I do have a HF special 110v, don't have a good enough power line to run it from the house to garage. Should get a good table saw or band saw for square cut, but again house first.