Hey guys i am finalizing a 96 LT-1 swap into my 78 malibu. Just completed first road test. I am using an auto gage volt meter gauge and its reading 12. The instructions directed me to tap into an available +12v wire for its signal so this is what i did. I am not an electrical expert but shouldn’t alternator be putting out 13-14 volts? I thought gauge should be connected to alternator?? I am wondering if my belt is slipping. This is a serpentine setup and I had to change put the idler pulley tor a smaller one for frame clearance. That being said, the belt does not feel loose. Tensioner is new and within its span of operation and belt tension feels the same as my 04 Sierra.
Volt gauge question
- Thread starter Baker7888
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Ok RT Jam ill try that. I was crusing down the road when I saw it at 12. Going back out in a bit, will bring volt meter with me
Ok yeah i checked it with voltmeter running at idle and it was at 11.73 and dropping. I am wondering if my alternator is wired incorrectly
Did your car come with factory gauges? If not you’ll need a resistor in line for the field wire to trigger the alternator properly.
How did you install your gauges? If you don’t have the field wire hooked up in the interior harness to a keyed 12 volt source, nothing’s going to work properly.
How did you install your gauges? If you don’t have the field wire hooked up in the interior harness to a keyed 12 volt source, nothing’s going to work properly.
This is a 78 malibu. It has factory speedometer and fuel gauge only. For volts i am using an aftermarket 2-5/8 gauge.
On the factory gauge cluster i have dummy lights. One of them is the generator light. I was told this acts as the resistor. None of these dummy lights illuminate. I guess i am going to take cluster apart and see what’s in there.
On my LT1 alternator i have the brown L wire (i thought went to generator warning light) i am not getting any power at this wire when testing with key on. I believe this is why alternator is not turning on. What fuse controls the generator dash light??
The gauges/idiot light use the gauges fuse, it’s a 20 amp fuse, so if you’ve got power to your fuel gauge, you should have power to the generator circuit- at least on the cluster side.
Unless you cut anything in there for the LT swap, check if you’re getting power out of the idiot light first, then troubleshoot anywhere you altered the harness. But before you dive that deep, check the bulb. If it’s blown, the circuit won’t get power to the alternator.
Unless you cut anything in there for the LT swap, check if you’re getting power out of the idiot light first, then troubleshoot anywhere you altered the harness. But before you dive that deep, check the bulb. If it’s blown, the circuit won’t get power to the alternator.
I am digging into the dash now. Now that you say it, fuel gauge does not work either. Which fuse is it. Sender is brand new and ground is good
I only have a spare harness for an 84 MC on hand, but on this it’s all the way on the left by the taillight harness plug, middle row.
Okay that fuse is good. I do get power there too with a test light with key on. I have the cluster apart but the bulbs are recessed 3” down into their holes. Do i use pliers on these ??
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