What assembly lube is everyone using?

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It depends on how long it will set before you start it. I have used Lubriplate for years, learned it from my dad and grandpa, but, if you let the motor set a LONG time it kind of dries up, gets to a harder paste form. If it will be a while, like six months or more, wait to do the cam lube and just use good motor oil on the cylinder walls, rings, and bearing surfaces.

I have had the best luck swapping out oil filters right after the cam break in cycle, and then oil and filter at 500 miles. A good filter can get clogged at cam break in with all the particles and such from break in process and foreign objects from general assembly. I am a Valvoline guy, VR1 Racing Formula for the ZDDP. Pretty much swear by Wix filters too.
This brings to my attention I don't know when It'll be fired up after I put it together. I still need the Holley rebuilt with the ability to use atleast E10 gas, make a power & gauge set up to run on the frame, set up a quiet exaust to listen for problems. I'm so wrapped up with getting it done I haven't included the time frame from build to start. I'll keep these suggestions for lube as I go forward. I've been using Valvoline myself for over 25 years, but for filters I've used AC filters until they dropped the PF25, then I went Fram.
 
Buy a Fram, a AC, a Wix and cut em apart or go to the parts store where they have them cut apart.

If it could sit for an extended time, just use motor oil or mix some Lubriplate into a small bowl full of your choice of motor oil, like 90-10 or 80-20 oil to assembly lube ratio.
 
FYI - one of my spare bullets sat for two years and when I took at one of the mains it looked like I had just assembled it. Tried to get a pic of it's claim on the back but it was two small. Here is it's claim
This Brad Penn High Performance engine assembly lubricant is a premium high-viscosity lubricant specifically designed to offer additional protection for green moving surfaces in engine assembly applications. It provides higher load-carrying ability and excellent surface film protection to prevent wear in highly stressed internal components. The lubricant is readily misicible with all types of mineral-based and synthetic engine oils. It does not contain solids such as molybdenum or graphite, which can cause clumping and/or oil filter plugging. Brad Penn high performance engine assembly lubricant is recommended as a prelube for valvetrain components, including cam lobes, lifters, wrist pins, rod bearings, main bearings, and more!

Also note the high zinc/phosphorous in the oil.



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So the Brad Penn lube held up in long term storage. This might be what I need. Also it help a Pa local company. I won't need to rush things & fire it up when the time works for me.
 
I have always used the green Lucas assembly lube. No problems here.
 
I am a HUGE believer in all Lucas products. I used their assembly lube along with the oil stabilizer as lube when building the 355 SBC in my race car and the 406 Pontiac in my Monte (both flat tappet with roller rockers). Both motors sat for 6-9 months before being fired and they both broke in and run fine with no issues. I also used the supplied cam lube from Comp that came with the cam, and used the Comp engine break in oil with the 355 and Valvoline Racing 20-50 and added the Lucas ZDDP additive to it in the 406. As long as you prime the oiling system (make sure you have oil coming out of all pushrods) before firing and use the additives you should be fine.
 
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