If your Hellwig bar has links versus the OE style that bolts to the control arm, test drive with one link removed.
Same with the front, you can remove the link from one side to see how it does. It helps at the drag strip. I haven't seen the videos, but, one trick to preload the suspension is to place an airlift or drag bag into the passenger side rear spring, it only needs about 12-15 psi in it. Just add pressure 1 psi at a time until it leaves straight. They are around $100 a pair new....only need one.
But the bolts and mounts holding the poly bushings should float, not bind.
Hop Stop bars were popular for G-body cars as well as A-body predecessors. The 9 inch rear gets the geometry for free due to size. Dick Miller Racing offers a nice set.
I have went as quick as 1.48 60 foot on slicks and stock uppers (with stock old bushings)with solid lowers (like SSM or Iceman offers) and pinion angle set at 4° down. You take out 1° for each point that is solid (heim style).
Same with the front, you can remove the link from one side to see how it does. It helps at the drag strip. I haven't seen the videos, but, one trick to preload the suspension is to place an airlift or drag bag into the passenger side rear spring, it only needs about 12-15 psi in it. Just add pressure 1 psi at a time until it leaves straight. They are around $100 a pair new....only need one.
But the bolts and mounts holding the poly bushings should float, not bind.
Hop Stop bars were popular for G-body cars as well as A-body predecessors. The 9 inch rear gets the geometry for free due to size. Dick Miller Racing offers a nice set.
I have went as quick as 1.48 60 foot on slicks and stock uppers (with stock old bushings)with solid lowers (like SSM or Iceman offers) and pinion angle set at 4° down. You take out 1° for each point that is solid (heim style).