what torque converter to go with????????????

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mebe007

Royal Smart Person
Feb 7, 2007
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newport news, viginia
does anyone have any suggestions.

o know theres alot of companies out there, TCI, B&M, Hughes, Coan, etc.
key thing is im a budget minded weekend warrior who is also in college. please help.
 
No looser (IE higher than 2600) & I'd recommend an Art Carr OR a Boss Hogg ( can be found on eBay )

The Art Carr 2000-2400 is approx. $250 & a Boss Hogg 2500 in approx. $225.

I have an Art Carr. Many people have the idea looser is better, which for a street car is WRONG!!!!!!!!!! The Edelbrock RPM cam is listed as 1500-6500 RPM range, but really is more like 2500-6500. So, a converter that flashes at low to mid 2,000 RPMS is what you need. :wink:
 
i was going to have coan build a converter to match the car but i wasnt really sure. they wanted alot of info, first gear ratio, rear gear ratio, horsepower, curb weight, cam lift and duration at.50. i know coan has been in the buissness for a good long time for sure. thats who my manual valve body is built by(the first to ever make one for the th350). my concern with the boss hog was that i could only find them on ebay
 
All those do factor in..... to a degree. But, here's a good example. My good friend, who helped build my engine, has a 377 SBC putting out 500-525 horse & 480+ LB Ft torque in a Monte Carlo. He had a 3000-3500 stall in the TH350 mated to this engine. The trans was slipping so badly with this converter, he went to a 2600-2800 stall & picked up 2 tenths in the 1/4 mile AND made the car much more street friendly.

I understand your concern on the Boss Hogg. Go with an Art Carr 2000-2200. You'll be happy, the price is right & Art Carr products are tried & true.
 
Don't forget also that stall speed is dependent on a number of factors, and the catalog listing is just an estimate. An engine with more low end torque will stall higher than the same car/trans/converter with less low end. Also, vehicle weight varies the stall speed of the converter as it reduces the amount of inertia the converter has to overcome to move the car. It is a fluid coupling and as such torque and weight are the factors that make it stall at a certain speed. Think of it this way:If you stir a bucket of water with a teaspoon it has less resistance than if you used a spatula. The spatula and spoon represent vehicle weight. More resistance=higher stall speed. Torque acts in an inverse fashion. It reduces the resistance to movement like using the teaspoon, only this time it does so on the input shaft end of the converter rather than the outer shell like weight does. Either way, the change in resistance will vary the stall speed.This is why they asked for your gearing, weight and cam specs as these are the things that help them determine what kind of vehicle and application they must build the converter for.
 
Right agreed, that's why I am saying for him to go with a converter that is listed at 2000-2400. He could piss away $700 on a TCI 5000 & with his engine it would MAYBE flash up to 2500 from at dead stop.

Unless his engine was built with shim head gaskets, or the heads were milled a great deal, those 992 76cc GM Junkers (sorry 🙁 ) with a .039 gasket will MAYBE yeild 9.0:1 CR. This combined with a .510 cam & 235* duration, he's not making gobs of torque right off idle.

A super high stall will not do much because the engine isn't super torquee.
 
my deck heighth was shaved a bit i forget how much exactly, i used to run a xe 262 but switched to the edelbrock rpm. anymore suggestions
 
I personally have never used a Hughes product, but they are trusted names in transmissions. So, for the price you probably can't go wrong.

It's rated at 2500, which is good. But.... if you do go with it, don't be surprised if you actually only see a 2000-2200 flash.
 
so if i go to a 2800 or 3,000 stall would i get a higher flash?
 
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