Wheel hop

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My 383/200 4R/4.10 El Camino has no wheel hop now with totally stock control arms, busings and sway bar and Lakewood Anti-Hop bars from Summit. I'm a believer.
 
I had wheel hop so i got adjustable upper contol arms and it fixed it, i've heard from a lot of people that wheel hop is mostly from the pinion angle. You want 3 degreese difference between the angle of the driveshaft and the pinion. When the pinion is pionted too far towards the ground it makes the tires bite the ground and if you dont have enough traction it hops and bites ant hops until you let off or get enough speed to get traction or somethin breaks. I took out a transmission like that. If the pinion is too far in the air you dont get much traction and you'll just burn the tires off
 
I agree with "86 regal", the pinion angle needs to be correct. I think trying one of the anti hop bars is a less expensive route, but you can get the same results with adjustable upper arms.
 
I have had wheel hop on every g-body I've owned with limited slip. It also seems to get worse with lower profile tires. Not with open end cars.

I finally had enough of not being able to do burnouts (was scared of damaging my rear), so I upgraded most of the rear suspension. I have the Edelbrock's boxed lowers, double adjustable uppers (still set to factory length), anti-hop bars, and their trailing arm braces. Now unfortunately I had them all put on at once, so I can't say which part helps the most. But I can say that there is absolutely no more hop.

Now the Edelbrock stuff is nice, but very overpriced. There are a lot of other good brands that are much cheaper and will do the same job. One thing to look out for is the bushings. You don't want all urithane ones, because they can cause your suspension to bind. If you want to do it as cheap as possible, just box your factory ones. And install new bushings, rubber on the frame side and urithane on the rear end side.

Also if you don't have a rear sway bar get one. If your car is more drag oriented, you don't need the beefier one up front. But if you want your car to handle good, then get a matched sway bar for the front.

And for the anti hops, I heard it also depends on how much power you have. If you're 350HP or more, don't use the anti hops. In my car (with a stock 305) the rear of my car raises 2-3 inches when I launch, or stall the converter. I've heard of cars losing their rear springs because of this. Plus with the extra downward force your gonna go through tires faster (if they spin lots). But for me I like them. iI do believe they also help me a lot with getting traction in winter too lol.

And one more thing, for everybody. Wheel hop will kill your rear end. So if your car has lots of wheel hop try to not do burnouts.
 
Phoenyx said:
I have had wheel hop on every g-body I've owned with limited slip. It also seems to get worse with lower profile tires. Not with open end cars.

I finally had enough of not being able to do burnouts (was scared of damaging my rear), so I upgraded most of the rear suspension. I have the Edelbrock's boxed lowers, double adjustable uppers (still set to factory length), anti-hop bars, and their trailing arm braces. Now unfortunately I had them all put on at once, so I can't say which part helps the most. But I can say that there is absolutely no more hop.

Now the Edelbrock stuff is nice, but very overpriced. There are a lot of other good brands that are much cheaper and will do the same job. One thing to look out for is the bushings. You don't want all urithane ones, because they can cause your suspension to bind. If you want to do it as cheap as possible, just box your factory ones. And install new bushings, rubber on the frame side and urithane on the rear end side.

Also if you don't have a rear sway bar get one. If your car is more drag oriented, you don't need the beefier one up front. But if you want your car to handle good, then get a matched sway bar for the front.

And for the anti hops, I heard it also depends on how much power you have. If you're 350HP or more, don't use the anti hops. In my car (with a stock 305) the rear of my car raises 2-3 inches when I launch, or stall the converter. I've heard of cars losing their rear springs because of this. Plus with the extra downward force your gonna go through tires faster (if they spin lots). But for me I like them. iI do believe they also help me a lot with getting traction in winter too lol.

And one more thing, for everybody. Wheel hop will kill your rear end. So if your car has lots of wheel hop try to not do burnouts.

1st thing, El Camino are far more likely to wheel hop due to lack of weight over the rear tires. They will wheel hop with a stock 350, nevermind when you start getting up into 400-500 HP.... Anti-hop bars work, but depending on the power of your engine might not be the best solution (the sometimes contribute to twisting and ruining the top crossmember mounting area without proper bracing).... Edelbrock parts are nice, and so are hotchcis, but way way over priced... you can get adjustable uppers and lowers for about $350 for both on Umiperformance.com.... also what are you running for shocks??
 
I put the no hop bars on my car with the stock upper and lower control arms ( not boxed ) same old stock bushings and everything and no wheel hop. When launching or getting heavy on the pedal the rear of the car raises ( instead of squatting down ). Launches are straight and more controlled. It really does feel weird to punch the pedal and have the rear of the car lift instead of squat.

Only 2 problems with mine

A: they squeak when getting in and out of the car
B: the bushing on the axle housing is removed when installing so the ride can be jarring when on bumpy / uneven roads at low speed
 
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