I alluded to this in another thread, that basically ALL 78-88 G-bodies used one of two lower column ignition switches depending on the column used, whether tilt (RPO N33), or non-tilt (standard column).
Unfortunately, all the column ignition switches are discontinued from GM, but you can still find them new on the secondary market, like ebay and facebook, swap meets, etc. And again, unfortunately, unless you fall into it, they're not getting any cheaper when you do find NOS GM ones. I've seen them from 30-50 bucks on norm now. They used to be a $10-12 part.
The STANDARD NON-TILT ignition switch is GM p/n 1990115, ACDelco p/n D1404B. It will NOT interchange with a tilt switch. Don't even try.
The TILT wheel column uses switch GM p/n 1990116. The only real difference is the the direction the ignition switch moves. It's either pushed or pulled depending on which column you have. Tilt pulls, standard pushes, IIRC.
But there's two others I've found that MIGHT work with a little massage. They used them on A and X-bodies of the 80s (FWD) and F-bodies mainly, with console (RPO D55) and automatic transmission. They have a cable lock on them to prevent the switch from activating if it's in anything but Park or Neutral.
The potentially alternate GM p/n's are:
1990114 (superseded by 7843451), and 26036235. The first number apparently fits 3rd gens, and the second number fits the last couple year 3rd gens and 4th gen F-bodies. I can't get good clarification on that. There's something a little different with them between the two, but I can't find what that exactly is. They're basically setup like a tilt wheel G-body (116 part) switch but . The automatics with floor shift use these numbers, but the manual trans uses the 115 and 116 switches. The automatics with floor shift uses the strange numbers. An interesting thing is, the switch I ordered is stamped 114, meaning 1990114. So is the switch the same? Or not? I've got a sneaky suspicion that the guide is different on the newer version vs. the older version guide. Meaning that's why the p/n aren't supersession numbers, they're two stand-alone numbers because of something being different between them.
As mentioned, there's an immediate difference about them and it's rather apparent. On the base of the switch, there's a huge plastic "guide" for a cable pull insert from the transmission gear shift on the floor. There's a pin that the cable insert blocks if the switch is not in Park or Neutral. Exactly how it works, I don't know. But it's a mechanical stop. Keeps you from starting the car unless in Park or Neutral.
Thing is, there's two little philips screws holding this piece on. Plus a little clip on the base. Everything I've researched so far says you can just undo the two screws and pull off the cable guide, and you should be in business with a 116 switch. Or, technically you don't do squat, let the guide just sit there as it is kinda out of the way, and if it doesn't hit anything underneath, just use it as is. I'm going to find out.
I was able to scare up a GM switch p/n 26036235 for cheap so I can try this experiment. If it works, great. If not, I'll put the guide back on and sell it to a 4th gen F-body guy. Or steal parts out of it and refurb an original used Delco switch.
SMP299, the 26036235 equivalent:
Not sure when they started using this, but if you notice some of the newer switches, GM or aftermarket, they have the two blank tabs on the back side of the switch base so if they used the guide they'd punch the screw holes. The original production units did not have these tabs.
Newer version with tabs
An older original. Look ma! No tabs!
What's kind of silly is that I used to have a 26036235 in a baggie for the wife's '02 Z28 as it had an automatic. But I sold it when I dumped a majority of my 4th gen stuff after selling the cars. Should have took it out of the baggie.
I got an idea what's inside these ignition switches, as I busted one in the junkyard trying to get a column away from a smashed dashboard (crashed car) many many moons ago. I KNOW they can come apart, so when I get around to it, I'll take a GM one apart and clean it up and possibly "restore" it. Just because. When I do, I'll post up here how its done. Unless they get burnt up and melted/cracked, I'm betting a worn switch can be refurbished. These switches are robust and can handle a lot of abuse. To a point.
When it comes to aftermarkets, I'm betting most will work, but I cannot vouch for those as I haven't really researched them diligently.
Unfortunately, all the column ignition switches are discontinued from GM, but you can still find them new on the secondary market, like ebay and facebook, swap meets, etc. And again, unfortunately, unless you fall into it, they're not getting any cheaper when you do find NOS GM ones. I've seen them from 30-50 bucks on norm now. They used to be a $10-12 part.
The STANDARD NON-TILT ignition switch is GM p/n 1990115, ACDelco p/n D1404B. It will NOT interchange with a tilt switch. Don't even try.
The TILT wheel column uses switch GM p/n 1990116. The only real difference is the the direction the ignition switch moves. It's either pushed or pulled depending on which column you have. Tilt pulls, standard pushes, IIRC.
But there's two others I've found that MIGHT work with a little massage. They used them on A and X-bodies of the 80s (FWD) and F-bodies mainly, with console (RPO D55) and automatic transmission. They have a cable lock on them to prevent the switch from activating if it's in anything but Park or Neutral.
The potentially alternate GM p/n's are:
1990114 (superseded by 7843451), and 26036235. The first number apparently fits 3rd gens, and the second number fits the last couple year 3rd gens and 4th gen F-bodies. I can't get good clarification on that. There's something a little different with them between the two, but I can't find what that exactly is. They're basically setup like a tilt wheel G-body (116 part) switch but . The automatics with floor shift use these numbers, but the manual trans uses the 115 and 116 switches. The automatics with floor shift uses the strange numbers. An interesting thing is, the switch I ordered is stamped 114, meaning 1990114. So is the switch the same? Or not? I've got a sneaky suspicion that the guide is different on the newer version vs. the older version guide. Meaning that's why the p/n aren't supersession numbers, they're two stand-alone numbers because of something being different between them.
As mentioned, there's an immediate difference about them and it's rather apparent. On the base of the switch, there's a huge plastic "guide" for a cable pull insert from the transmission gear shift on the floor. There's a pin that the cable insert blocks if the switch is not in Park or Neutral. Exactly how it works, I don't know. But it's a mechanical stop. Keeps you from starting the car unless in Park or Neutral.
Thing is, there's two little philips screws holding this piece on. Plus a little clip on the base. Everything I've researched so far says you can just undo the two screws and pull off the cable guide, and you should be in business with a 116 switch. Or, technically you don't do squat, let the guide just sit there as it is kinda out of the way, and if it doesn't hit anything underneath, just use it as is. I'm going to find out.
I was able to scare up a GM switch p/n 26036235 for cheap so I can try this experiment. If it works, great. If not, I'll put the guide back on and sell it to a 4th gen F-body guy. Or steal parts out of it and refurb an original used Delco switch.
SMP299, the 26036235 equivalent:
Not sure when they started using this, but if you notice some of the newer switches, GM or aftermarket, they have the two blank tabs on the back side of the switch base so if they used the guide they'd punch the screw holes. The original production units did not have these tabs.
Newer version with tabs
An older original. Look ma! No tabs!
What's kind of silly is that I used to have a 26036235 in a baggie for the wife's '02 Z28 as it had an automatic. But I sold it when I dumped a majority of my 4th gen stuff after selling the cars. Should have took it out of the baggie.
I got an idea what's inside these ignition switches, as I busted one in the junkyard trying to get a column away from a smashed dashboard (crashed car) many many moons ago. I KNOW they can come apart, so when I get around to it, I'll take a GM one apart and clean it up and possibly "restore" it. Just because. When I do, I'll post up here how its done. Unless they get burnt up and melted/cracked, I'm betting a worn switch can be refurbished. These switches are robust and can handle a lot of abuse. To a point.
When it comes to aftermarkets, I'm betting most will work, but I cannot vouch for those as I haven't really researched them diligently.
