I've always run a 6AL in all my cars....always seen an increase of at least 2 mpg....i've had the no shut off problem once and it states in the manual that the battery light can back feed the box preventing the car from shutting off....they give you a diode to install inline to prevent this...i installed the diode and never had a prob....the killer on boxes is as stated heat but also vibration....this is with any electronic component....and they don't run two boxes in nascar cause one will PROBABLY crap out....its IN CASE one craps out.....when you have 100's of thousands of dollars tied up in a car per race why would you not put a second box in for a couple hundred bucks to prevent you from losing a race
who uses an ignition box? (msd, accel, etc)
- Thread starter G_Body_Enthusiast
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Alot of problem with MSD type boxes are NOT the box, it's the wiring by the end user.
Crimped connectors, rusted connectors, too small gauge wire, poor wire routing causing them to pick up interference etc etc.
I have cured plenty of issues on customers cars with proper wiring,ground and installing a Capacitor at the box (this is a biggy that no one does).
Crimped connectors, rusted connectors, too small gauge wire, poor wire routing causing them to pick up interference etc etc.
I have cured plenty of issues on customers cars with proper wiring,ground and installing a Capacitor at the box (this is a biggy that no one does).
I had a pretty wild M10 motor (BMW) built about 10 years ago. It had a big cam, big valves, big compression. I ran a 6AL box with no worries. Started all the time and the rev limiter was nice to have too.
Re: msd
well with the wiring for the 7 pin module HEI...all i have to do if the box craps out is unplug the factory harness from the box and plug it back into to the distributor. its part of the reason why i'll probably go with it. its a plug and play type add on. i'd have to take the power and negative cables leading to the battery aside from that and the box isnt part of the ignition anymore.
its slightly different for the 4 pin vacuum advance HEI's though. some have you remove the module all together.
smoknum said:
well with the wiring for the 7 pin module HEI...all i have to do if the box craps out is unplug the factory harness from the box and plug it back into to the distributor. its part of the reason why i'll probably go with it. its a plug and play type add on. i'd have to take the power and negative cables leading to the battery aside from that and the box isnt part of the ignition anymore.
its slightly different for the 4 pin vacuum advance HEI's though. some have you remove the module all together.
I was just relaying what another racer told me about them "PROBABLY" crapping out... don't get all defensive.. Heat and vibration is a big issue in NASCAR.. This is how they make better products.. from race research..
The car I have the MSD in has alot of heat from the longtubes and vibration from the .600+ lift cam and solid motor mounts.. Just passing on what I learned.. So when I spend close to $500 on parts and someone asks a question.. I will give what I learned.. And yeah , if they do put two boxes in a $100,000 car.. don't you think that there might be a slight issue in a 500 mile race?
Just food for thought guys..
The car I have the MSD in has alot of heat from the longtubes and vibration from the .600+ lift cam and solid motor mounts.. Just passing on what I learned.. So when I spend close to $500 on parts and someone asks a question.. I will give what I learned.. And yeah , if they do put two boxes in a $100,000 car.. don't you think that there might be a slight issue in a 500 mile race?
Just food for thought guys..
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