Wop-sided Chassis Help

[drogg1]

Are the springs seated correctly and all other suspension components functioning and not binding?

Otherwise, if the frame hasn't been reinforced, I agree that it is easily that flimsy stock. I would ask your body guy exactly what they did to be sure.

 

[pontiacgp]

Why did they have to cut the floor to make the frame sit properly and I have never heard of having to manipulate the body bushings alot. Have these guys ever worked on a G body before?

 

[Pharozen]

Are the springs seated correctly and all other suspension components functioning and not binding?

Otherwise, if the frame hasn't been reinforced, I agree that it is easily that flimsy stock. I would ask your body guy exactly what they did to be sure.

Well, that's the thing, the frame was "overly" reinforced. They had to remove the rear cross-member (or some rear part of the frame) in order to provide clearance for the body. The same thing with the floor pans. There were sections of the floor pans that did not clear an already over emphasized reinforced frame. Assuming that the suspension is in tact, I believe the problem lies in the removed sections of the frame or the bushings. I'm going to check with my body guy today to get more information.

 

[Pharozen]

Why did they have to cut the floor to make the frame sit properly and I have never heard of having to manipulate the body bushings alot. Have these guys ever worked on a G body before?

Well, that's the thing. The frame was originally designed to race or something, because in addition to being boxed out and reinforced to the max, there was some clearance issues with the body. This wasn't an ordinary frame. However, I plan on getting clarity today on the bushing issue and also the parts that were removed. My gut is telling me that the "insignificant" part that was removed from the frame in the rear, plays a huge role in keeping those rear rail arms straight.

 

[Pharozen]

Brandon, I got your PM, but these guys have pretty much covered it all here.
As already stated, the rear framerails from the rear crossmember back are very flimsy and can move around quite a bit.
In my case, I had the opposite problem to yours, after all the additional welding and reinforcing I did to the rear rails, the heat pulled them up a bit. Nothing that couldn't be fixed by bolting the body back onto the frame tho. There's enough flex in those rails that they just moved back down as I tightened the body mount bolts.
By the framerails being "not tied together" he means there is no additional bracing connecting the left and right rails together.
The only thing that ties them together from the factory is the back bumper, and it only does a mediocre job of that at best.
Make sure to use a quality replacement body mount kit and pay careful attention to what bushings go where and how, because it matters. I used Prothane's kit, and was extremely happy with the quality and fit.
If you're 100% sure all the mounts are in the correct location, and there is no previous repair that could be affecting the area, you could consider trimming the height of just the rear bushings on the low rail to level things out for you, but I would try my hardest to find out what is causing the issue first.
Donovan

 

[Pharozen]

Brandon, I got your PM, but these guys have pretty much covered it all here.
As already stated, the rear framerails from the rear crossmember back are very flimsy and can move around quite a bit.
In my case, I had the opposite problem to yours, after all the additional welding and reinforcing I did to the rear rails, the heat pulled them up a bit. Nothing that couldn't be fixed by bolting the body back onto the frame tho. There's enough flex in those rails that they just moved back down as I tightened the body mount bolts.
By the framerails being "not tied together" he means there is no additional bracing connecting the left and right rails together.
The only thing that ties them together from the factory is the back bumper, and it only does a mediocre job of that at best.
Make sure to use a quality replacement body mount kit and pay careful attention to what bushings go where and how, because it matters. I used Prothane's kit, and was extremely happy with the quality and fit.
If you're 100% sure all the mounts are in the correct location, and there is no previous repair that could be affecting the area, you could consider trimming the height of just the rear bushings on the low rail to level things out for you, but I would try my hardest to find out what is causing the issue first.
Donovan

Good information Donovan,
After receiving all of the aforementioned feedback, my best guess is 1 of 3 things: the bushings, the part that was removed from the rear of the frame to provide clearance, or as you stated, simply tightening the body mount bolts. I'm going to explore every avenue because I've worked too hard and spent too much money on body/frame to settle for a wop sided rear. I plan on following up with my body/frame guy today to trouble shoot a few more things and I'll give updates accordingly. It's good to hear back from you buddy, and like always, THANKS!

 

[pontiacgp]

Well, that's the thing. The frame was originally designed to race or something, because in addition to being boxed out and reinforced to the max, there was some clearance issues with the body. This wasn't an ordinary frame. However, I plan on getting clarity today on the bushing issue and also the parts that were removed. My gut is telling me that the "insignificant" part that was removed from the frame in the rear, plays a huge role in keeping those rear rail arms straight.

I would have got a proper frame and upgraded it. When you start boxing and modifying these frames it's easy to warp them and there is alot of people who think they know what they are doing when upgrading these frames. Was this frame put in a jig or on flat surface to take measurements to make sure it was straight?

 

[565bbchevy]

I apologize in advance for this correction but it is "lopsided" not "wop-sided" only Barry Kripke from Big Bang Theory says it like that.

 

[Pharozen]

The consensus is: we're going to "shim the bushings". Not entirely sure of the source of this lop/wop-sidedness; however, the most efficient solution seems to be to tweak the bushings some more which shouldn't have any significant impact on drive-ability, tire wear, or overall performance.

 

[Rktpwrd]

So what did your body guy say Brandon? What was changed and/or modified that more tweaking is required to the bushings?
Have you or him taken any cross measurements of the frame to eliminate the possibility that the framerails have moved with the additional reinforcing?

This is a handy reference. If what you need isn't shown here, there are additional images online, just google "G Body Frame Measurements".
Hope this helps.
Donovan