Greetings Denny & all; Sorry for your MESS, the phase Brown Soft Smelly Stuff Happens comes to mind. I would agree the the pin Press fit was - is incorrect. That's the pin diameter vs the small end rod bore. If memory serves it should be .0007 to .001 PRESS? The pin should float in the piston bore. For home builders I would suggest full floating pins with pin locks of course. Then the clearance would be preset from the piston manufacture as most pistons come with pins. Then the shop would drill & chamfer a oil hole in the top of the rod, then finish the bore (small end) to .0007 to .001 clearance, assembly disassembly is very easy then. Quality rods right out of the box will have this work done & only requires checking - inspection. Never take any thing for granted from any shop as us humans tend to screw up from time to time. In the past I've paid the shop to but the bearings in & torque the main caps then use the dial bore gage to measure the bores & record them on paper. Same with the rods, bearings in caps torqued, measure. Then of course measure the crank. The cheap way to do this is called plastic gage! Piston skirts, # the pistons & insert, no rings use feeler gage! Rod side clearance at mock up assembly, feeler gage. And of course piston to head-valve clearance with lifters adjusted, use clay & let it harden. Save it for future reference as you may want to change cams. Oh don't forget crank end play. These steps will most likely result in an engine that will live. Sorry we couldn't help you before the mess. Good Luck, Ole' Bob.