This thread is for the items that interchange easily, and improve your car. In other words, the parts we all try to find in the junkyard if we can. So, if you have a easy bolt in part that you know of that improves on one of our cars, post it here. This is NOT a thread to post your finds unless they add to the list. This is mainly here to help those new to these cars who may not know what to look for. Also, Keep this thread on topic as it is meant to be a printable listing. Anything off the topic will be deleted.
Here is my list. I will add to it as I remember stuff.
Body:
Aluminum Hood (with springs!!!)
Aluminum radiator support
Aluminum bumper
Sport Mirrors
Spoiler and air dam package (special models like GN and H/O)
Hood scoop (H/O and Choo Choo Customs El Camino SS)
Wide lower body moldings
Chassis:
Jounce bars and assorted chassis braces
FE2/F41 suspension pieces
Fast ratio steering box
Larger sway bars
Jeep Cherokee Steering shaft: Must be STANDARD Cherokee, NOT a Grand Cherokee. This according to several threads here.
Hydroboost: Ever wanted to have power brakes in a car with little to no vacuum? Ever envy the French for their Citroens and their exceedingly complex hydraulics that drive everything? Hydroboost is the answer! It is found mainly on diesel cars, and uses the power steering pump to generate hydraulic pressure to actuate it. Grab all the hoses and lines if you find one. They can be found on various cars and trucks, but mainly diesel applications.
Electric Power brakes: This one is best avoided. It is native to turbo Regals, and known to be troublesome.
Manual steering: You need the box from a stripper model 4 cylinder S-10 for this one. I am not sure of the rest of the details of exactly which pitman arm to use, etc, but it is supposed to be more or less a bolt on.
High capacity rear wheel cylinders: Again, a manual brake S10 is the source for this one.
F body fast ratio steering box: Only use this if you need a box with shorter internal stops. This is useful if you have very wide front tires that hit the frame or suspension, but it will make the car have the turning circle of a city bus. Use only with the G body native pitman arm or frame contact or damage may result.
F body rear lower control arms: These give you a higher durometer bushing if you get them from a performance model ( T/A, Formula, IROC-Z, Z-28, etc.). They are identical to a G body rear LCA except for the bushings. Only use them if you have them as aftermarket arms are a better alternative. I think the fronts may be shared between the two chassis as well, but I have never tried to confirm this.
Interior:
3 motor power seat track with wiring and switch. Replaces earlier single motor and transmission track that dries up and shatters over time. Better due to reliability.
Sport steering wheel
Rally gauge package
Non-A/C ventilation pieces. Rare in warm climates.
Regal "Concert Sound II" front speaker system with grilles. Lets you install door speakers in your car with factory parts.
Options your car lacks. As far as I can remember, this is the comprehensive list of available interior options:
Power Windows
Power Driver's seat
Power locks
Rally gauges
Air Conditioning
Tilt wheel
Intermittent wipers
Cruise Control
Power trunk release
Sport steering wheel
Bucket seats
Bench Seat
60/40 split bench seat (standard on luxury models like Brougham, Luxury Sport or Limited)
Remote Sport Mirrors
Digital gauges (Regal only)
Electronic Climate Control (Regal only, may work on other models if used as complete system)
Most of these options can be easily installed using all factory parts, or removed and sold to someone who wants to add them.
From later GM cars, you can also add the rear view mirror with map lights and a compass built in. Some are auto-dimming as well. The best one I have found is in the top of the line Oldsmobile Intrigue.
Another trick is "Flash to Pass" which is done with a 1994+ B body high beam switch and an extra wire. I found it in a link posted for me by another forum member. I will add the link when I find it. What it does is that it allows you to pull the switch back like you were going to put on the high beams, but it just flashes, like most newer cars have.
134a R-4 compressor: Found on some 1994+ truck applications. Also grab the cycling switch while you are there if you decide to pull one. It will have the type of refrigerant marked on the label on the compressor, so make sure it says 134a and not R12. The label is usually orange and silver, and it's a Delphi, not a Harrison.
Twilight Sentinel: Turns headlights on and off automatically via a small light sensor. Native to some Cadillac models and comes with a pull out style switch. Not sure how to adapt it, but El Dorados use a sensor in the defrost vents.
Drivetrain:
Dual Snorkel Air Filter Base. Source: H/O 305 Camaro or H/O or 442 Cutlass. It's worth about 10 hp over the standard one. The Camaro version on an SBC requires the A/C brackets and lines to fit without mods, or you can just bend the LG4 lines to fit.
TH 200 4R transmission from performance model. Comes with several improvements over a base car's transmission. Be sure to get the mount and crossmember while you are there. The driveshaft is the same as a Th200, so there is no need to pull it unless you plan on using a 8.5 rear axle.
8.5 10 bolt rear axle assembly. Found in 84+ H/O or 442, and turbo cars only. May also be found in other models as a swap over the years. Comes in 3.42 on Regal models and 3.73 on Cutlass models. Posi is optional, not standard. Requires a 1 inch shorter driveshaft.
G80 code for limited slip. Can be found in various GM chassis with the 7.5 or 8.5 rear axle. Buy the one that is the right series carrier and ring gear size for your application.
1976-1980 non computer Quadrajet carb. It's a direct replacement for a computer carb with all the same hook ups.
Non computer HEI distributor: Source: various 1974-1980 models.
1996+ Chevy Vortec 350 (L-36 code) cylinder heads- found in light to medium duty Chevy and GMC trucks and vans
4.3 TBI gas tank and fuel sender: Useful if doing an EFI swap.
Engine Oil Cooler for SBC: Caprice Classic Police Edition (9C1) cars. Grab the whole thing down to the lines, block adapter, brackets and bolts. The box Caprice one seems to be easier to install, but I have yet to try and use the one from a bubble. On my car, I was even able to bolt the line bracket to the engine mount bracket using a factory hole. The lines were a bit short though, and necessitated some lengthening.
THE HOLY GRAIL: Manual shift linkage, bell housing and ESPECIALLY the clutch fork!!! The transmission is not worth taking as it is probably junk, but all the other parts are sought after rarities that bring good money on E-Bay if you don't want them!!!! Above all, don't let them go to the crusher unpulled!!!
That is all I can think of off the top of my head for now. Feel free to add to the list if there is something I have forgotten. Not everything here will help everyone, but everyone should be able to find something useful.
Here is my list. I will add to it as I remember stuff.
Body:
Aluminum Hood (with springs!!!)
Aluminum radiator support
Aluminum bumper
Sport Mirrors
Spoiler and air dam package (special models like GN and H/O)
Hood scoop (H/O and Choo Choo Customs El Camino SS)
Wide lower body moldings
Chassis:
Jounce bars and assorted chassis braces
FE2/F41 suspension pieces
Fast ratio steering box
Larger sway bars
Jeep Cherokee Steering shaft: Must be STANDARD Cherokee, NOT a Grand Cherokee. This according to several threads here.
Hydroboost: Ever wanted to have power brakes in a car with little to no vacuum? Ever envy the French for their Citroens and their exceedingly complex hydraulics that drive everything? Hydroboost is the answer! It is found mainly on diesel cars, and uses the power steering pump to generate hydraulic pressure to actuate it. Grab all the hoses and lines if you find one. They can be found on various cars and trucks, but mainly diesel applications.
Electric Power brakes: This one is best avoided. It is native to turbo Regals, and known to be troublesome.
Manual steering: You need the box from a stripper model 4 cylinder S-10 for this one. I am not sure of the rest of the details of exactly which pitman arm to use, etc, but it is supposed to be more or less a bolt on.
High capacity rear wheel cylinders: Again, a manual brake S10 is the source for this one.
F body fast ratio steering box: Only use this if you need a box with shorter internal stops. This is useful if you have very wide front tires that hit the frame or suspension, but it will make the car have the turning circle of a city bus. Use only with the G body native pitman arm or frame contact or damage may result.
F body rear lower control arms: These give you a higher durometer bushing if you get them from a performance model ( T/A, Formula, IROC-Z, Z-28, etc.). They are identical to a G body rear LCA except for the bushings. Only use them if you have them as aftermarket arms are a better alternative. I think the fronts may be shared between the two chassis as well, but I have never tried to confirm this.
Interior:
3 motor power seat track with wiring and switch. Replaces earlier single motor and transmission track that dries up and shatters over time. Better due to reliability.
Sport steering wheel
Rally gauge package
Non-A/C ventilation pieces. Rare in warm climates.
Regal "Concert Sound II" front speaker system with grilles. Lets you install door speakers in your car with factory parts.
Options your car lacks. As far as I can remember, this is the comprehensive list of available interior options:
Power Windows
Power Driver's seat
Power locks
Rally gauges
Air Conditioning
Tilt wheel
Intermittent wipers
Cruise Control
Power trunk release
Sport steering wheel
Bucket seats
Bench Seat
60/40 split bench seat (standard on luxury models like Brougham, Luxury Sport or Limited)
Remote Sport Mirrors
Digital gauges (Regal only)
Electronic Climate Control (Regal only, may work on other models if used as complete system)
Most of these options can be easily installed using all factory parts, or removed and sold to someone who wants to add them.
From later GM cars, you can also add the rear view mirror with map lights and a compass built in. Some are auto-dimming as well. The best one I have found is in the top of the line Oldsmobile Intrigue.
Another trick is "Flash to Pass" which is done with a 1994+ B body high beam switch and an extra wire. I found it in a link posted for me by another forum member. I will add the link when I find it. What it does is that it allows you to pull the switch back like you were going to put on the high beams, but it just flashes, like most newer cars have.
134a R-4 compressor: Found on some 1994+ truck applications. Also grab the cycling switch while you are there if you decide to pull one. It will have the type of refrigerant marked on the label on the compressor, so make sure it says 134a and not R12. The label is usually orange and silver, and it's a Delphi, not a Harrison.
Twilight Sentinel: Turns headlights on and off automatically via a small light sensor. Native to some Cadillac models and comes with a pull out style switch. Not sure how to adapt it, but El Dorados use a sensor in the defrost vents.
Drivetrain:
Dual Snorkel Air Filter Base. Source: H/O 305 Camaro or H/O or 442 Cutlass. It's worth about 10 hp over the standard one. The Camaro version on an SBC requires the A/C brackets and lines to fit without mods, or you can just bend the LG4 lines to fit.
TH 200 4R transmission from performance model. Comes with several improvements over a base car's transmission. Be sure to get the mount and crossmember while you are there. The driveshaft is the same as a Th200, so there is no need to pull it unless you plan on using a 8.5 rear axle.
8.5 10 bolt rear axle assembly. Found in 84+ H/O or 442, and turbo cars only. May also be found in other models as a swap over the years. Comes in 3.42 on Regal models and 3.73 on Cutlass models. Posi is optional, not standard. Requires a 1 inch shorter driveshaft.
G80 code for limited slip. Can be found in various GM chassis with the 7.5 or 8.5 rear axle. Buy the one that is the right series carrier and ring gear size for your application.
1976-1980 non computer Quadrajet carb. It's a direct replacement for a computer carb with all the same hook ups.
Non computer HEI distributor: Source: various 1974-1980 models.
1996+ Chevy Vortec 350 (L-36 code) cylinder heads- found in light to medium duty Chevy and GMC trucks and vans
4.3 TBI gas tank and fuel sender: Useful if doing an EFI swap.
Engine Oil Cooler for SBC: Caprice Classic Police Edition (9C1) cars. Grab the whole thing down to the lines, block adapter, brackets and bolts. The box Caprice one seems to be easier to install, but I have yet to try and use the one from a bubble. On my car, I was even able to bolt the line bracket to the engine mount bracket using a factory hole. The lines were a bit short though, and necessitated some lengthening.
THE HOLY GRAIL: Manual shift linkage, bell housing and ESPECIALLY the clutch fork!!! The transmission is not worth taking as it is probably junk, but all the other parts are sought after rarities that bring good money on E-Bay if you don't want them!!!! Above all, don't let them go to the crusher unpulled!!!
That is all I can think of off the top of my head for now. Feel free to add to the list if there is something I have forgotten. Not everything here will help everyone, but everyone should be able to find something useful.
