You know the drill. Old locks worn out, previous owner, or even yourself, had to buy a new driver door lock for your 78-88 A/G-body and now you have 2 or more trunk/door/glove box keys and one igntion key.
Or maybe you got the original set(s) of keys for your car, but they're worn slap out. Even the station wagon guys with the rear twisty lock.
Never fear, I may can help.
Firstly, I am not a locksmith. But I have experience working with G-body locks, tearing them down, re-pinning them and gettting different locks matched to the keys I want to use.
Depending on your needs, I have the ability to PUNCH CUT keys to fit your G-body. Not like the key duplicator you see in the hardware stores that grind out keys based on copying your worn out key that just gets even worse over time. These would be fresh cut keys just like when the car was brandy new from the code book. Sure, a locksmith can do it, but trust me, I'd be a hella lot cheaper. I can cut any one-sided 6-cut GM key from 1935-1993 (without pass chip).
Different options include just cutting a new set of keys using a high-resolution photo of your existing keys, both sides. Just make sure to tell me which letter is stamped on your key to match the compatible key slot. One thing I cannot do is magically make a D key fit an H slot for example. I might can fix it, though, depending on the lock.
Additionally, if you have a different lock and want to match your dominant oval secondary key, I can re-pin your different lock (s) to match the keys you have for the other locks. All I would need is the lock itself and a picture of the key you want to use for it showing the cuts. I can read the cuts needed from the picture.
If you want a generic set of every day no-name keys, the fee covers the generic key blanks. But if you want the GM mark of excellence keys, you can either send them to me and I can punch them, or I can supply them for a fee. Keep in mind the restoration GM key blanks aren't dirt cheap any more so keep that in mind. $10 per first key pattern, $2 for subsequent keys with same pattern. So if you want one set of keys, it's $20, and $4 for the second set. $24 for two sets of fresh cut keys. GM Mark of Excellence restoration keys, if you supply the blanks, will be the same. If I have to supply the GM blanks, the cost will be slightly higher, depending on my costs to obtain them.
If interested, PM me with your lock needs, and we can go from there.
For example, here's one set of the original keys for my 85 442. The keys are worn but they look worse than they should because when I was in the Navy I had them on a belt hook key chain with other "important" keys and they took a beating. I blanked out the cuts because, well, security reasons.
And here's a new key I made today. Since I have an entire set of uncoded locks for the doors/trunk/glovebox, I decided to make my own code for the keys and cut a new code and pinned the new locks to match. Again, blacking out the cuts on the key itself, but you can see it's a new key. I might re-pin the new ignition switch to match that code too so I'll have the same code throughout the car. Not sure yet.
Or maybe you got the original set(s) of keys for your car, but they're worn slap out. Even the station wagon guys with the rear twisty lock.
Never fear, I may can help.
Firstly, I am not a locksmith. But I have experience working with G-body locks, tearing them down, re-pinning them and gettting different locks matched to the keys I want to use.
Depending on your needs, I have the ability to PUNCH CUT keys to fit your G-body. Not like the key duplicator you see in the hardware stores that grind out keys based on copying your worn out key that just gets even worse over time. These would be fresh cut keys just like when the car was brandy new from the code book. Sure, a locksmith can do it, but trust me, I'd be a hella lot cheaper. I can cut any one-sided 6-cut GM key from 1935-1993 (without pass chip).
Different options include just cutting a new set of keys using a high-resolution photo of your existing keys, both sides. Just make sure to tell me which letter is stamped on your key to match the compatible key slot. One thing I cannot do is magically make a D key fit an H slot for example. I might can fix it, though, depending on the lock.
Additionally, if you have a different lock and want to match your dominant oval secondary key, I can re-pin your different lock (s) to match the keys you have for the other locks. All I would need is the lock itself and a picture of the key you want to use for it showing the cuts. I can read the cuts needed from the picture.
If you want a generic set of every day no-name keys, the fee covers the generic key blanks. But if you want the GM mark of excellence keys, you can either send them to me and I can punch them, or I can supply them for a fee. Keep in mind the restoration GM key blanks aren't dirt cheap any more so keep that in mind. $10 per first key pattern, $2 for subsequent keys with same pattern. So if you want one set of keys, it's $20, and $4 for the second set. $24 for two sets of fresh cut keys. GM Mark of Excellence restoration keys, if you supply the blanks, will be the same. If I have to supply the GM blanks, the cost will be slightly higher, depending on my costs to obtain them.
If interested, PM me with your lock needs, and we can go from there.
For example, here's one set of the original keys for my 85 442. The keys are worn but they look worse than they should because when I was in the Navy I had them on a belt hook key chain with other "important" keys and they took a beating. I blanked out the cuts because, well, security reasons.
And here's a new key I made today. Since I have an entire set of uncoded locks for the doors/trunk/glovebox, I decided to make my own code for the keys and cut a new code and pinned the new locks to match. Again, blacking out the cuts on the key itself, but you can see it's a new key. I might re-pin the new ignition switch to match that code too so I'll have the same code throughout the car. Not sure yet.
