Thoughts on buying a used engine

[RunAwayNJ]

I am working on my 86 442 and trying to do the build on a budget. My car club has graciously offered to do the engine swap so I have no money that I have to put out in labor. I just need to get the parts/motor ect.

The first option was rebuilding the 307. Cheap, but I think there are better options.
Second option was a crate motor, but all assembled will cost close to $3k. Over budget.

I've found some used 350's online locally claiming low miles for $800 to $1000 complete and running. Of course, I'd do my best to verify the history of the motor and mileage, but does anyone on the forum have any thoughts on buying a used engine? What should I look for? What should tell me to stay away? Any help is appreciated!

 

[seawolf18]

If its a used rebuilt engine, ask for proof that it been rebuilt. receipts, etc. Best way the verify the engine is hear it run, and have a compression\leak down test done on it.

 

[-83MONTESS-]

Do a compression test for sure. If the engine is on a stand I would ask to pull the oil pan and inspect the oil pump pickup screen or metal shavings or gunk buildup. I doubt you would be able to pull the mains(understandable) but just look anywhere you can for something that isnt right. If you had a dial indicator testing crankshaft endplay would be good also. It's pretty easy to do and can tell you alot.

 

[MrLightning]

If its a used rebuilt engine, ask for proof that it been rebuilt. receipts, etc. Best way the verify the engine is hear it run, and have a compression\leak down test done on it.

I bought the 71 Olds 350 that's currently in my 86 cutlass as a used NEW rebuilt engine, I spoke with the owner on the phone first ( because it was several hours away from where I live) that gave me some audio insight into the type of person I was dealing with to begin with................obviously in person at first is even better. I went with a buddy who has restored cars and built cars and engines and had him give me the GODS HONEST TRUTH opinion about the engine I was looking at, we listened to it run while still in the car that it was in. I was given all the receipts for the work that was done to the engine and the receipts for the parts that were put into the engine, and lastly I spoke on the phone with the engine builder, whom neither of us knew of eachother, and I asked him about what was done and if any issues existed with the engine. My buddy and I came to the consensus that the engine was in fact a NEW rebuilt engine based on engine builder input, hearing it run, visually it had no leaks and appeared fresh, and when I got it home we tore the top end down and took pan off and all was clean.

The main things are to get a FEEL for the kind of person your dealing with, READ him, if he seems to sound like hes a BS er then chances are hes selling snake oil, also look for obvious things on the engine that indicate not being as stated (if told the engine is NEW, newer rebuild or 30,000 miles ago rebuild) ask to see receipts, ask for name of engine builder if not person who owns engine. If engine is in car, hear it run................preferably with some kind of quiet version of muffler ( open headers BEWARE) you wont hear yourself think let alone any engine noises. If engine isn't in car, ask owner to take off valve covers and pan so you can see the internals, it only takes 10 minutes and if hes reluctant cuz he doesn't wanna make a mess, then tell him you feel therers reason to be concerned because he should offer to show you the inside anyways.

Good Luck!

 

[seawolf18]

Good advice MrLightning. If you talk to the guy about the engine, and you get the gut feeling, or the little guy in the back of your head telling you hes trying to unload a turd on you. Walk away.

 

[Mike P]

You mentioned 350s, but did not indicate if they are Chevy, Buick, Olds, or Pontiac. If you are talking about Chevy 350s, unless you have a transmission that has the bolt pattern for both Chevy and BOP engines you will also be looking at a transmission swap. Additionally there will be other changes required like exhaust, possibly wiring, hoses, belts etc etc. Depending on the parts/outside labor you do the need to complete swap you can be looking at a bunch of unanticipated costs and time that you hadn’t planned for. Then there may be the hassle of possibly having to pass emission testing depending on where you live.

Buying a used engine is a crap shoot……good luck.

 

[RunAwayNJ]

Thanks for all the input! I've found mostly Chevy 350's, and its a good point to consider the bolt patters to match up to the transmission. So far I've found one or two, but they get sold fast if they are decent. The one guy I talked to seemed like he was hiding something so I just forgot about that one. I'm going to keep looking and still considering the rebuilding option for the 307. The clubs main concern was sending out the heads for machining, but I have a shop right next to my office that can do it. We may go that route, since I know the engine and what will be done to it.

 

[olds307 and 403]

The Olds 350 was great engine. I bought two for cheap, th last one cost $120. It came from a 76 Delta 88. You can still find good 76 or older Olds 350's, sbc were junk in those years. We had a 75 350 Rocket go many trouble free miles. This one was original down to the nylon cam gear, no teeth missing. I would always do a timing chain replacement. I had a Performer cam and fairly new Cloyes Street Roller timing set. I bought the $12 Felpro conversion set from Summit. That included multiple water pump, the oil pan , timing gasket, rope rear seal plus other little gaskets. I also opted for the AMC 6 rubber rear main which fits the small block Olds, $15. This engine has 25 hot idle in gear, 30 in neutral. I am still working on the exhaust but runs very well. Try to keep it Olds, to look more original and makes a much easier swap. Just make sure to use the water pump off the 307 for pulley alignment. Even a smog Olds 350 will be much more responsive than a tired 307. Everyone hates the 85 and up swirl port 307, they went totally backwards with that design. Even rebuilt they are anemic. Tiny ports and 8 to 1 compression means no power.

 

[MrLightning]

not sure where your at in NJ, but cuz im bored as hell right now..................im gonna post a couple I found (if you decide you want to rebuild a Olds 350)

http://cnj.craigslist.org/cto/3882550213.html

http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/pts/3955224969.html

http://southjersey.craigslist.org/pts/3869037585.html

heres a steal! on a 69 Olds 350

http://reading.craigslist.org/pts/3903636276.html

 

[L92 OLDS]

Thanks for all the input! I've found mostly Chevy 350's, I'm going to keep looking and still considering the rebuilding option for the 307. The clubs main concern was sending out the heads for machining, but I have a shop right next to my office that can do it. We may go that route, since I know the engine and what will be done to it.

Good call. If you have the patience and the means, rebuilding the VIN 9 442 engine in your car will help retain the cars value and going Olds will be cheaper than trying to swap in something else. The 307 isn't a bad engine and it can get decent fuel mileage. There are a lot of crap used engines for sale on craigslist. If you choose to go this route, make sure you can hear it run or try to get a money back gaurantee from the seller in writing so that if it ends up having major issues (rod knock, spun bearing, access oil consumption, etc) you are not screwed. If I can't hear a used engine run and the seller won't back it up, I treat it as core value.