What you need to 350 swap

[Matthew Goeke]

How bad? Rust floating under cap? Ive seen them with just green corrosion on the inside due to being copper but if there is rust flushing is an option to a point and can get more life out of it when funds are tight but if its bad rust better off getting a new one so the rust doesnt plug it and ruin your motor although when you grow up around derby car owners the motto tends to be "drive it like you stole it until she falls apart" lol

its like white stuff that grew inside of the rad, ive heard its actually because of the battery, grounds and being the fact that my grandpa possibly filled the rad up with tap water

 

[Matthew Goeke]

How bad? Rust floating under cap? Ive seen them with just green corrosion on the inside due to being copper but if there is rust flushing is an option to a point and can get more life out of it when funds are tight but if its bad rust better off getting a new one so the rust doesnt plug it and ruin your motor although when you grow up around derby car owners the motto tends to be "drive it like you stole it until she falls apart" lol

 

[AxiumVlor]

its like white stuff that grew inside of the rad, ive heard its actually because of the battery, grounds and being the fact that my grandpa possibly filled the rad up with tap water

Tap water seems more likely probably calcium and lime deposits are arent corrosion city water systems use minerals to recycle waste water and make it usable with that running through the system over the years it collects in deposits if its there its in the motor too if your radiator is leaking in a fixable spot id pull it and flush it and the block have it fixed and reinstall it even if its not fixable id flush the block or when you change the radiator the deposits in the block can come loose and plug your new radiator

 

[AxiumVlor]

Tap water seems more likely probably calcium and lime deposits are arent corrosion city water systems use minerals to recycle waste water and make it usable with that running through the system over the years it collects in deposits if its there its in the motor too if your radiator is leaking in a fixable spot id pull it and flush it and the block have it fixed and reinstall it even if its not fixable id flush the block or when you change the radiator the deposits in the block can come loose and plug your new radiator

Not to mention the heater core would need flushed as well

 

[565bbchevy]

I didn't want a radiator with plastic tanks so I bought a new all aluminum Champion 3 row for extra cooling capacity for my 86' Regal and it fit well in the factory shroud.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-1971-1972-1973-1974-1975-1976-1977-Camaro-Champion-Racing-3-Row-Radiator-/222463703019?fits=Year:1978|Make:Buick|Model:Regal|Submodel:Limited|Engine+-+Liter_Display:5.0L&hash=item33cbdeb7eb:g:yawAAOSw1-RUY~H-&vxp=mtr

 

[Matthew Goeke]

I didn't want a radiator with plastic tanks so I bought a new all aluminum Champion 3 core for extra cooling capacity for my 86' Regal and it fit well in the factory shroud.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-1971-1972-1973-1974-1975-1976-1977-Camaro-Champion-Racing-3-Row-Radiator-/222463703019?fits=Year:1978|Make:Buick|Model:Regal|Submodel:Limited|Engine+-+Liter_Display:5.0L&hash=item33cbdeb7eb:g:yawAAOSw1-RUY~H-&vxp=mtr

How does that one fit? does it keep your engine cool after alot of throttle?

 

[565bbchevy]

How does that one fit? does it keep your engine cool after alot of throttle?

It fit fine with no modifications, I bought the 3 row to cool the SBC that will be going in at a later date, the 2 row version would be more than adequate to cool the current stock 307.

 

[Matthew Goeke]

i went over to work on the buick today, i have an open diff, but we did get the new brake cylinders in and brakes on, the bad thing is when we were WORKING on the car a branch fell off of a massive tree hit the roof of the buick and scared the sh*t out of us both. i dont know if it added scratches because it was really dirty but im pretty sure it did some damage. - yes the buick is now in the garage again

 

[1STLATIGERDIVISON]

So ive been convinced that i might as well do the 350 swap since i already have the 305 and want some extra horsepower. i see videos where people get a 350 crate motor with 290 Hp for 1500$ but i cant seem to find it anywhere. possibly it was discontinued and replaced with the 240hp version. but anyways what all would i need just to do the swap. i am planning on buying the crate long block and swapping carb, intake, pully system trans and basically everything from the 305. this will take place over a few months this summer but i think itll be fun. PS YES i am still working on the brakes. i installed one of the wheel cylinders saturday and im going to do the other wheel cylinder and get the lines in next saturday. So TLDR what do i need for a 305 to 350 long block crate engine swap.

I will tell u this the harmonic balancer is different on the 350 than the 305 also beware the timing marks are diff as well the timing pointer is important when using a timing light. But if ur good at the swap u May time ur engine by ear.

 

[Matthew Goeke]

I got a question and i didnt feel like it needed a seperate thread, do you guys know of a good exhaust manifold, and test pipe (kinda like a catalytic converter delete, idk what its called in american car terms) combo that would bolt on to the factory muffler, like i said i want to keep a quiet sound but want to have a good flowing exhaust, in the future ill probably get a new muffler. this is for the chevy 350 (well 305 but they both have the same exhaust)