Im not sure if thats right. From what I remember the OEM links were a bit longer than that.
Fusible Links
- Thread starter mikester
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Im not sure if thats right. From what I remember the OEM links were a bit longer than that.
Maybe 7 or 8 but as I recall the length is very critical to the protection of the circuit. Been a long time but I think something to research
It looks really clean Nice Job on the setup and thanks for the good information.I'm not a fan of fusible links and did away with them. I also did away with the stock gang connection and separated all the wires into separately fused circuits.
Between doing that and needing some new wiring like going to dual electric radiator fans and headlight relays for my upgraded headlights, I installed a fuse block behind the overflow tank.
It's a Blue Sea Systems Safety Hub 150 and it's a very high quality piece and worked perfect for handling everything I needed.
The 4 bolt-down type fuses are MiDI-AMI type and I used time-delay for these. The 2 MIDI-AMI 40A fuses lead to the firewall connector and one leads to the ignition switch and the other to the main fuse panel. I upgraded the wire to 10GA from the stock 12GA for a little less voltage drop to the car's systems. The 2 MIDI-AMI 30A fuses are for my subwoofer amp and to power the radiator fans. You can also see that I used a 30A type 1 auto-reset breaker for the headlights. I also used 10GA wire from there to the relays.
I buy MIDI-AMI fuses from Waytek. By far the best selection and prices I've seen on these.
The power feed for the fuse block is a 4GA wire directly to the battery. The charging wire from the alternator goes directly to the battery also and is a 6GA. My battery is a dual terminal and I'm using both. The fuse block power feed and the charging wire go to the top post and the hot wire to the starter goes to the side post.
I asked for info in a thread back when I was redoing the wiring. I made both of them the exact length of what was there originally. The hardest part was finding the fusible link wire. None of the guys in the chain parts stores ever heard of it. I had to run to an old school auto parts about 40 minutes from where I live. They sold it by the foot.
I finally dug everything out to take some pics of the maxi fuse box & cable. I even have some extra terminals I picked up at the stealership when I got it to add the right color wire for the circuits if I go with it. Painted the cover red just to ID it.
is that a chevy are olds engine and where did you get the tube that you're running the starter wires threw
Its a 400 SBC and the tube is a stock GM part. Im not sure what else came with those but I got a couple of them from mid 80s Montes.
I need some help too. This is my situation and I don’t know how long or where to start wiring. The black cylinders have 16g on them.
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My wires werent that bad. One of mine had a broken link wire just out of the barrel. That barrel is just a factory connector for the link to the 12GA wire. If that was my car I would trace the wires back to the source and replace them completely. You'll find that they go to the bulkhead connection on the firewall and I think one goes to a factory splice thats in the harness that comes from the alternator. Mine was along the intake in a piece of loom. The 16GA link wire might be hard to find in a chain auto parts. You might be able to find it online. I got mine from an old time auto parts store. Read back in the beginning of this thread and it tells how I splice it.
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