Recent content by monteboy84

Notching and welding in reinforcement gets my vote 8) -matt

Have you considered just notching your original crossmember? I know that plenty of guys here in the US have done it with good results. -matt

I'm not entirely sure what you'll need, but I believe that the LS1 brackets are slightly different. Give Tobin at Kore3 a call and get his input, he's a very knowledgeable and helpful guy. When I ordered my brackets I was on the phone for less than 5 minutes with him, and he knew exactly what I...

For what it costs to do the S10 Blazer spindles/bearings and Corvette brakes, I don't know why anyone would do anything different. I really like the bracket kit from Kore3, it costs a little bit more (I think I paid $130 for the kit) than Flynbye, but from what I've seen of the Flynbye kit...

What's the section width on that 275/40? I've got 245/40-17 in the rear, as far out in the wheelwell as I would go with a rolled lip, and I've got roughly 1.5" to the frame, so I'd be comfortable with another 1.25" or so of section width. -matt

Re: 87 ls with differential of a v6 is that why i cant spin My Monte came with 2:29 gears. Swapping them out for 3.42 gears with an overdrive trans made the weak 350 I had in it a lot more fun to drive. -matt

You must have missed the part about how I'm running hubcentric dual pattern adapters to correct this . . . This is who I got mine from, they were great to deal with: http://www.motorsport-tech.com/ -matt

17x8 BMW 540i E39 type 37 wheels on 1.5" hubcentric spacers/adaptors, with 245/40-17 Michelin PIlot Primacy tires. They fit pretty good, but the rears will be close to the wheel lip, may need to roll the inside edge a bit. I won't know this until the ride height is corrected, still sitting...

I'll take a look this week, might have a good roof for you. It's on a junk race car, but the roof was never skinned and I think it's straight. You can have it free if you pay the shipping. It will still probably be cheaper/easier for you to buy local, but let me know if you have trouble finding...

I stand corrected :mrgreen: Any trouble with them leaking?

Please skip the T-Tops, I've never known anybody who had them and was happy with them. They cost more money, and get you more wind noise, more leaks, more chance to ruin the roof of your car. The only car I would want T-Tops on would be a 90's F-body, never on a Gbody. Keep that beauty clean-cut 8)

Can you take a picture from the front of the car underneath, to show what angle the lower control arms are sitting at? That will help to see where the best place to lower the car is. I'd much rather see you go with tall lower ball joints than drop spindles. My guess is a combination of tall...

There is absolutely nothing wrong with cutting springs, especially the king of springs in a G-Body, since only one end is flat the other is a free coil, cut there. As FE3X stated, it will increase the spring rate, since you're removing coils, each of which absorbs spring pressure. -matt

For $60, definitely do it. I paid $175 for my setup, I just got it but I can't wait to get it installed. Sure, the hubs are expensive to replace if they go bad, but honestly you're not going to be wearing them out more than maybe once in the life of the car. I like the stock 2-piston calipers...

I'd remove one of your rear studs and take it to a local parts store, get some new studs for the rear to match the 12x1.5 Metric studs you have in front. Then, I'd order the lugnuts from the ebay link I posted before, they'll work for you. You could also go to a local salvage yard, they should...