Ebay crossmembers

565bbchevy said:

The cheapest way would probably be cut out a notch on the driver's side of your factory crossmember and weld in metal to reinforce it..
Plus you know it already fits your car without other modifications

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I agree. I was told to do it this way over 30 yrs ago from the guys at the local speed shop. There were no fancy X-members available back then.
That's what's in my car now. I do have an extremely well made Iceman X-member awaiting the 200-4R installation.

565bbchevy said:

The cheapest way would probably be cut out a notch on the driver's side of your factory crossmember and weld in metal to reinforce it..
Plus you know it already fits your car without other modifications

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Can confirm- My El Camino came with that modification, although it was done poorly and the crossmember flexed prior to me fixing it. Some thick bar stock is advised as opposed to rebar.

I had the Jeg's crossmember when I had my TH350 in the car and was very happy with it but switched to the Summit copy of the G-Force crossmember when the TH400 went in. I am very happy with that one as well.

My cutlass has the g force th350 and it fits great. My monte has the jegs th350 and its fit is horrible. Had to use 5/16 bolt to install as the holes dont line up enough for 3/8 and the humps are small and dont line up with my headers

The G-Force/G-Force copy does allow for bigger and better exhaust placement.

Drkuhar said:

My monte has the Jegs th350 and its fit is horrible. Had to use 5/16 bolt to install as the holes don't line up enough for 3/8 and the humps are small and don't line up with my headers

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I just used offset header extensions on my Regal, worked fine and lined up with my existing exhaust.

Drkuhar said:

My cutlass has the g force th350 and it fits great. My monte has the jegs th350 and its fit is horrible. Had to use 5/16 bolt to install as the holes dont line up enough for 3/8 and the humps are small and dont line up with my headers

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When I used the Jegs TH350 originally on my frame I was able to use 3/8" bolts but had the slight clearance issue with the Pypes kit, '70's A/B/F manifolds, cats & Flowmaster down pipes. Even the new one I get for Jr.'s car can use 3/8" bolts. Now with the G Force TH350 I had to do a slight angle adjustment on how the down pipe/cat combo runs on the passenger side. Now I'm guessing I shouldn't have this issue on Jr.'s car using the Jegs kit, stock manifolds with Pypes down pipes & the cats.

This morning thinking of all the money we have to budget ....I had this temporary solution come to mind.okay here goes ( sorry) suppose you had some scrap aluminium from welding shop ": supposing you had say 2" of it thick and 4 inches long them you drilled 2 holes the same space as end mount holes on yur member that would make a spacer to jack the left side up closer to the floor and had 2 longer bolts ( grade 8 ?) Then you would need a thinner trans mount that's were it gets fuzzy I suppose a solid one could be fabled but it seems wrong lol I guess if you were a good welder you could cut and weld the mount bracket lower but as far as the concept 2 inches (spacer) I have not tried . But hereinafter lied the concept of clearance and comprimise... maybe you only need 1.5 depending on pipe size

Wow, I had no idea there were so many different crossmembers options available. I lucked into a storage unit a few days ago containing literally half a Monte SS, front and rear bumpers, fresh sandblasted and coated frame, original wheels, t-tops, built 305, built fairbanks 700/r4 trans with trans brake etc and it has what I just assumed was a G-Force crossmember still attatched to it. Haha now Im going to have to do some research on that assumption. I'm glad to have found this very insightful post. P.S. If anyone finds a random SS body in a storage unit, let a fella know! Hahaha

Any guesses on this crossmember? I can get a better pic, this was one of the pics from the auction place. I hauled everything home but I don't have any good pics yet.