Ebay crossmembers

The box tubing doesn't appear big enough to be G Force, and I think it's one of these.

Screenshot_20240429-145403.png
 
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The box tubing doesn't appear big enough to be G Force, and I think it's one of these.

View attachment 238736
Good eye, and from a terrible pic nonetheless. I'll compare them when the rain stops but I believe your correct. Thank you very much Johnny.
 
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Good eye, and from a terrible pic nonetheless. I'll compare them when the rain stops but I believe your correct. Thank you very much Johnny.
You're very welcome. I have no problem sharing my opinions, I just hope they're occasionally helpful. I looked for things that seem to change between manufacturers: box size, plate thickness, bolt hole shape, and the welds but I'm still just guessing.
 
You're very welcome. I have no problem sharing my opinions, I just hope they're occasionally helpful. I looked for things that seem to change between manufacturers: box size, plate thickness, bolt hole shape, and the welds but I'm still just guessing.
I'll be the first to admit that my eyes have lost detail over the years, probably too much welding and not enough carrots. Hate those things. Haha. I looked up the weights and it's a big difference so I should be able to easily see (or feel) the difference when I get that crossmember off the trans. The G-Force is 33lbs vs the Amazon at 25.6lbs. Not that it really matters, just trying to figure out what all I got in this mess. I did get a happy surprise on the headers in that pic though Hooker competition ceramic coated #2451-1 retail at like $550-$600. There not pretty, you can see the surface rust but no dents or dings. SCORE!
 
I looked up the weights and it's a big difference so I should be able to easily see (or feel) the difference when I get that crossmember off the trans. The G-Force is 33lbs vs the Amazon at 25.6lbs. Not that it really matters, just trying to figure out what all I got in this mess. I did get a happy surprise on the headers in that pic though Hooker competition ceramic coated #2451-1 retail at like $550-$600. There not pretty, you can see the surface rust but no dents or dings. SCORE!
Ahh, great idea: the scale will tell the tale. I wouldn't be able to sleep until I knew exactly what I had, and those headers are a good score for sure. I have the plain non-ceramic version and the driver's side hits the brake line by the proportioning valve until you bend it, move the valve or clearance the backside of it, and the passenger side is extremely close to the upper control arm. It might hit if the frame is bent or you've got a ton of shims in-- there appears to be between 1/16" and 1/8" of air between them on my Cutlass. To run an S5 oil filter or equivalent you'll have to clearance a tube or it'll touch, and I found shorty header plugs to be absolutely necessary on my straight-plug heads unless you want to dimple a few primaries, which I've also done.

I personally like carrots, but the whole "eat them for better eyesight" thing was WWII propaganda. https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts...at-carrots-help-you-see-in-the-dark-28812484/
 
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Ahh, great idea: the scale will tell the tale. I wouldn't be able to sleep until I knew exactly what I had, and those headers are a good score for sure. I have the plain non-ceramic version and the driver's side hits the brake line by the proportioning valve until you bend it, move the valve or clearance the backside of it, and the passenger side is extremely close to the upper control arm. It might hit if the frame is bent or you've got a ton of shims in-- there appears to be between 1/16" and 1/8" of air between them on my Cutlass. To run an S5 oil filter or equivalent you'll have to clearance a tube or it'll touch, and I found shorty header plugs to be absolutely necessary on my straight-plug heads unless you want to dimple a few primaries, which I've also done.

I personally like carrots, but the whole "eat them for better eyesight" thing was WWII propaganda. https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts...at-carrots-help-you-see-in-the-dark-28812484/
I heard about that WWll deal, makes me dislike carrots even more because they were in cahoots with the government! Only joking? Haha. I really appreciate the heads up on the headers, I'm seriously considering building a car from this pile of parts, but the last thing I need is another huge project. I'm really torn on this one because I love these cars. I built my square body chevy from a frame (roller), this is missing all the front suspension but I do have S-10 suspension leftovers and I could buy coils and steering components. I did get the steering box and column. It was a console shift car like almost all of them and I got a Hurst shifter in the unit. No rear control arms but a mint set of factory aluminum wheels. Bfg tires but they are shot. Engine and trans seem fresh with zero leaks. I don't want to hi-jack this post, I apologize.
 
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Any guesses on this crossmember? I can get a better pic, this was one of the pics from the auction place. I hauled everything home but I don't have any good pics yet.
its a th350 member by the looks of it
 
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its a th350 member by the looks of it
The trans bolted to it is a 700/4 and the frame I got from the unit is an 87 so it should have been 700/4 right? I'm still learning all the details. Thats all I know for sure.
 

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