First things first, make sure your steering system is in good shape and no wear.
As far as control arms, since you are looking for improved handling, you want something that gives you a better camber curve (taller ball joints) and more caster (upper control arm point moved back at minimum, moving the lower ball joint forward is great too!)
IMO a tube aftermarket arm with stock geometry and stock ball joints is just throwing your money away (unless you are going with a TRZ type setup to save weight in a drag race setup). I guess coilovers force you to get a different lower arm, but if you have to get a new lower arm get one with the lower ball joint position moved forward.
I have 1/2" taller lower ball joints in stock lower arms with replaced bushings and MC upper arms with a taller upper ball joint
I have these, they were my only option since I was able to get the camber in spec without shims, the stock arms (and almost every after market arm) hit my header tube on the passenger side-
The most adjustable, most affordable upper control arm on the market, no shims ever needed again, no dented header tubes, and no unbolting to adjust EVER
mcindustriesusa.com
Only complaint, I have so much additional caster turned into the car that the tires rub the inner fender at full lock if the car is on the bump stops going into a driveway. If I had to do it again, I'd get an aftermarket lower arm that has the lower ball joint moved forward so I can keep the caster but move the wheel forward in the fender 1" and keep the tire off the inner fender.
I would just avoid a speedway arm as they are much more targeted toward saturday night crash & bash dirt racing replacement.
Long story short, get a 'kit' of arms with the lower ball joint moved forward and upper arm moved back. UMI, BMR, Spohn, doesn't matter in my opinion as long as it's got improved geometry.