1970 Olds Cutlass S Rat Rod Style

Well, I finally took a 70 for a decent drive. It got somewhere around 20 mpg according to the Holley monitor on the highway. It has about 55 psi at around 1500 rpm at 60 mph and 60 psi at about another rpm more. Just under 40 psi at about 750 at a hot idle with mostly 10W30 with 20W50, all VRI. Stayed a rock solid 180, which it usually does with the 160 thermostat and where I set the Davies Craig fan controller. Why I took the half hour drive? Went to my Daughter's, her garage is much wider. So I can do the used 3.08 gears and Yukon posi with new bearings and seals with a W27 cover for bling. I am using conventional 85W140 with extra posi additive. Also painting it to look like W27 differential. Then I will act all ignorant if anyone asks😇.
 
Here is how the W27 came and me polishing the face and clear coat in the final Pic. I also cleaned up some rough casting on the inside bottom. I want some fancy on this $1500 rear overhaul.
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Well this this build has been all sorts of fun. Tried a cheap little slide hammer to pull the axles, nope. Bought $200 K Tool set with every attachment imaginable from Napa. Two pulls on each axle and out. Don't worry the fun keeps coming. Got the pinion races out without too much drama, good old punch and hammer method. Then the fun began. I discovered my 3 sets of 7/16" fine thread bolts in left hand thread wouldn't fit the used 3:08 gears, I got off Dale Robinson for a good deal. Kevin tapped a couple to right hand thread and they went right in. I tapped the holes and added orange locktite to the grade 8 replacements Heated the ring gear up, went righton and the holes all lined up. I also realized this 8.8 carrier takes different bearings, you can see by the pic. I got the part numbers from Monzaz on here, LM102949 bearings and LM102911 races. For Ford's they apparently pair with the LM102910 races. They pressed right on the 8.8 posi. The races and 4L80E tail shaft seal will be here tonight. I did some clean up of the case inside and out and started painting the case. It will look like W27, will act like I have no idea, if asked.
More tonight.

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Yes, they have Frank, too elaborate. I really want to see the mileage I can pull out of this 260. I have never seen an Olds motor not even seep oil, this one doesn't. Maybe it is super sludged up, I hope not. I will probably throw the gauges on as well to see where everything runs. This little motor runs great, especially for a 260. These are few steps closer to making it the driver I want. The 260 will go next year in the 88 when I get the custom can in and degreed in the 350, maybe with a stock 2004R instead the TH350.
You must have one of the rare 260’s that happened. Most people hated them.
 
That 260 wasn't as horrible as I thought it would be. But oil pressure was an issue. It had 100 psi all 8 cylinders. It was a sad time for automakers and even current 3 cylinders make more power. It did OK, through the valley better than the 6L 3/4 ton work truck.
 
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Either way the races fit, I ground the old small pinion bearing, so I can set up and check depth and remove it easily. I got the rear trans seal changed. I finished painting the housing, next is gear set up, probably this weekend.
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Ok so, I checked the pinion depth, same as the 2.78, 4.5 " to the housing edge. I basically copied the factory tools to install the pinion in the case. A block of wood clamped to the case with 5" 3/8" extension pressed against the block of wood. An old Ford Ranger exhaust pipe with tape on the edge, perfect and 5 pound hammer. After many blows, it was in. I installed the seal, the yoke fit nice and tight, better on this pinion than the original. Used the impact on the pinion nut, guessed and somehow hit the 24 to 30 inch pounds range, thank goodness. The digital torque wrench only goes down to 40 inch pounds, it didn't register, good. Only beam torque wrench, I could find was in foot pounds. Even the 3/8" version had foot pounds, WTF? Showed around 2 ft-lbs, should be close enough for new bearings. It took forever to get the shims right for back lash. I was going to reuse the factory thick shim for ease of install but they said don't reuse them, they a just case. Why did they use them in the first place? I do like how their are two shims that locate in the axle tubes. We put some instant Right Stuff Red, $10 off ar the outside of the axle seals. Kevin's axle went right in, mine needed a slight tap, 4 bolts flanges tight. Everything turns nice and smooth. Got the brakes drums on. Just the drive shaft on, 85W140 in and wheels on. We are going to do a test run on the jack stands, before the 1/2 hour drive home today.
 
I know the conversion factor, usually the 3/8" torque wrenches are in inch pounds. First thing I did was fill up the rear with 85W140 conventional gear oil. Then the drive shaft and tires. Did a test run on the stands, no bad sounds and didn't get hot, good start. Took the car home, half hour drive. No bad sounds, 1750 rpm at 60 mph in OD with the torque converter locked. New $200 Holley Pressure fuel pressure sensor showed 63-64 psi, same as my actual liquid filled gauge, instead the high 40's, low 50's the cheap sensor showed. I need another one for my oil pressure sensor, also reads 10 to 15 low, showed in the 40's, actual gauge showed 60+ psi on the trip home.I also pulled 20 mpg again, according to the Holley 3.5" display. The only issue was, I only went only snug on the cover, tightened it with my long 3/8" ratchet, see if it stops. I will be traction testing tomorrow😀.
 
Well, after this 8.5" Type O fighting me every way it could, it seems to be a success. I tightened the cover last night. Seemed to stop the leak. I tightened the cover again, just above freezing in the garage. I went as tight as a dare with the long 3/8" ratchet. Checked the fluid level, just below the filler hole, perfect. Also no leaks from the new rear trans seal, good. I took it out for a test drive. More responsive at part throttle and also at full throttle. It still went into 4th early. So I added 15% to 3 to 4th gear shift. I worked perfectly, stayed in 3rd at my town cruising speed. Then I went to start it later, it wouldn't start. Some how it completely lost the tune, WTF? Had to reload it, even then it didn't load exactly as I wanted. It seemed to be the base tune but somehow not, weird. Will see how it drives tomorrow morning.
 
It was the ground to the battery disconnect, again. I had it pointed upside down and it fell off. I moved it and now have it on top of the disconnect now. It should be the right tune now, according to graphs and parameters and raised the 4th shift points again. This is what happens with the Oldcursedmobile. Marks tune looked and ran the best it has. I was seeing nearly 36 timing and high 12's WOT. A couple of half hour runs on Cutlassefi tune did help it quite a bit.
 

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