the 1 store did tell me that some guys came in and each bought about 1k worth of Holley/Edelbrock/Accel carbs, intakes, distributors, etc . that was 1K AFTER the discount which means it was about $2.5-3.5K before the discount
try looking for the non-performance stuff that you could use, like the dual piston calipers or rotors
Didn't really need it but just bought another OE hurst shifter for the cars. Don't have the chrome stick or the 1/2 & 3/4 rods & levers but just having the reverse rod & lever along with the mounting bracket makes it worth it as I have extra 1/2 & 3/4 parts fron the 3 speed parts. I'll worry about a stick at a later time cause the ITM one won't fit.
Got my new stainless door strikers and my new door jam vents. Going to use perforated stainless and paint it to make an insert so I will still have a functional vent but not be able to look right into the jamb. Thanks for the help on the strikers in my striker post fellas.
When you go to change out those strikers, Take a ball point pen( or something not permanent) And outline the washer on your existing striker so that way you have a reference to install the new ones. That way you're not chasing at all around & having to dial the door in etc you'll be super close to start off.
When you go to change out those strikers, Take a ball point pen( or something not permanent) And outline the washer on your existing striker so that way you have a reference to install the new ones. That way you're not chasing at all around & having to dial the door in etc you'll be super close to start off.
A timeless tip! Up for a twist? Removing ink or even pencil can be tricky since it's right up against the item, but an alternative way to mark where things were aligned is to douse it in baby powder and wipe it when done. Tape is also pretty effective if you can trace or triangulate the piece.
The original owner had this car re-painted at some point white again but with a slight pearl in it. They were so lazy they didn't even pull the strikers...so I have a perfect circle outline from where I removed the old to put on the new lol. But both above tricks to keep em lined up would work amazing and are both good pointers. Thanks fellas.
Got my new engraved and chromed wheel well trim today. Came out great IMO. These bad boys took a good while...I had to wait a long time to get em. Really ties in my other engraved trim and my engraved Dayton Knock Offs. Overall pretty happy with em.
Only weird thing is they are about 1.5" shorter on all 4 corners to the inside of the car "closest to the doors". Not a deal breaker for me but can not figure out why these are shorter than my stock ones. Anyone know why these would be shorter? We're there different lengths for different years?
Got my new engraved and chromed wheel well trim today. Came out great IMO. These bad boys took a good while...I had to wait a long time to get em. Really ties in my other engraved trim and my engraved Dayton Knock Offs. Overall pretty happy with em.
Only weird thing is they are about 1.5" shorter on all 4 corners to the inside of the car "closest to the doors". Not a deal breaker for me but can not figure out why these are shorter than my stock ones. Anyone know why these would be shorter? We're there different lengths for different years? View attachment 250224 View attachment 250225 View attachment 250227 View attachment 250228
Yeah they are unsure as well. They were under the impression that all Cutlass wheel well trim was the same length for my style. They asked me for my current measurements of my stock ones and the ones they sent. Going to check their other stock after the 1st and see if they have longer ones. Trying to research now for them and me as to what the difference is by year to sort this. If push comes to shove, I may have to send my stock ones in to get done. Was hoping to prevent having to do that.
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