Professional tech for over 9 years now specializing in j* cars (we don't do tuner sh*t tho). Had 6 years before that at a late model salvage yard doing everything from dismantling (mainly) to sales and other things. I'm 31 now, been working in the auto field for 15 years now. No plans to change.
This place did mine. Super happy with it. Probably cost about $250-$300 with shipping, I don't remember exactly, was six months ago, but was fast, great communication, and nice!
http://www.dallassteeringwheel.com/
Clockwise, same as the engine.
Check out http://tech.oldsgmail.com/echa_140a.php
I just bought a cs144 series 140 amp for mine. Used 95 Roadmaster as the application. I bought a used one from the boneyard for a core, I wanted a reman so it's fresh looking. The reman cost me $95 at O'Reilly's...
I've used the por-15 gray on headers and manifolds. It lasts well. Looked better after time on the iron manifolds than the headers though. You can lay it on thicker than on steel. The headers showed brush marks, even after a few careful coats. I've never sprayed the stuff, that may work better...
Engine for my Cutlass is at the machine shop. Here's the plan.........parts are here or ordered.
.030 over 1971 350
Speed Pro L2321F 6cc forged pistons, ARP bolts, otherwise stock bottom end
#7 heads, 2" and 1.65", standard issue port and smooth AIR bumps, welded dividers
.028 Cometics...
Where are you, and what do you want for it? You don't want to be seen driving your aunt's old car around when you have a Mustang. That's what Civics are for.
Hell yeah. I like to get up that way. Woc is a nice area. I was just up there picking up a 292 Chevy I-6 for a 57 Chev truck my Father in law is building from a cool little boneyard in Kellnersville. My dad used to haul foundry sand for aluminum casting to ECK foundry in Manitowoc. I'd ride up...
Thanks for the feedback everyone. I just realized that in the rear end installation pics at the beginning of the thread the Moog 5413 springs weren't in yet. They brought the rear down an honest 1 1/4". Just for reference, the rake isn't all tire. And thanks to you guys I got good info on the...
I'm not hardcore enough for that! It was all I could do just to leave the air pump and sh*t on this thing while I was playing with it. I just kept telling myself it needs to drive 3 miles home now, and 3 miles back to my shop come spring to yank the 307 and metric 200, never to reside between...
I'm trying to decide how "incognito" I want the engine to look. I've got a dual snorkel air cleaner I'd like to run for a factory look. I'm keeping the A/C and cruise. You're right though, it will be hard to disguise exhaust note and headers. And seems a damn shame to me to paint a nice intake...
Yeah I got your snow, come get it! LOL. I'm in southeast WI. I'm planning on leaving the "couch" in it because it's so mint. With the column shift too it kind of keeps it a sleeper.
A couple little details I did. Had a Buick rally cap laying around, made nice hold dowm washer for my spare.
And painting my back up lights a nice bright silver with body color stripe turned out nice. And cheap!
Took the car home yesterday for the winter. I'm planning on getting my...
Thanks. I used 2" drop Belltech spindles with stock springs. The roads in WI suck as well, so I kept the drop reasonable. I've got a 77 Lincoln Mark V that I lowered with just springs, and it rides and handles well too, but it is a huge car compared to the Cutlass. Just came down to parts...
Thanks, yeah it's a Brogham. I actually bought the car from my uncle's estate. It was bone stock, but had been repainted around 1995, and then sat in a barn more or less since. The car hadn't gone 700 miles since 2001, the last oil change record I found in the ashtray.
Rear bar is from a 442, but didn't come with the rear end. The front is the small stock one, I may upgrade, not sure yet. I ordered the 6" front wheels from Wheel Vintiques (actually ordered thru Summit). I was impressed with the finished product enough to order two new 7" for the rears too. The...
The frame I just grind and wire brush down to bare metal, followed by multiple coats of 3M undercoating, which is tough stuff, yet east to touch up if it get nicked. The other parts were all just sandblasted and then primed and brush painted with Rust Oleum. Nice and thick, flows out nice, just...
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