1978 MALIBU "PROJECT TUMMY TUCK"

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Morning inspection: with a NEW VID: So what i need to know is what can i replace that brown wire to get current through it to tell my alt to charge my battery, i think its the idiot light,.,.

Light to red stock wire:
2A10CFBE-95D7-4A6A-AAA9-2A3664B9F71A-1517-00000134AF36F0B4.jpg


No light from white/brown stock wire: means?
43BE361D-DCE2-49D5-BFC2-C86C9955CDD6-1517-00000134B438384B.jpg


Heres the vid..
[youtube]vmZKeaqDXvI[/youtube]

What do i do next? hope its simple, member i hate wires lol :puke:
 
ok so this is what im going to do.

1. I have 14-16ga from fuse box to a power souce only when I turn the key.
2. Connect that wire from the fuse box to the white wire on the stock pigtail, replacing the brown wire that i have bad?
3. Plug in our stock pigtail red/white wire to the ES82 connector and then that into the alternator.
4. Start the car with meter conneted to see if im at 14-14.5 volts.
 
80ELCAMINOFLAKE said:
ok so this is what im going to do.

1. I have 14-16ga from fuse box to a power souce only when I turn the key.
2. Connect that wire from the fuse box to the white wire on the stock pigtail, replacing the brown wire that i have bad?
3. Plug in our stock pigtail red/white wire to the ES82 connector and then that into the alternator.
4. Start the car with meter conneted to see if im at 14-14.5 volts.

Well from your pictures it seems the red wire on the stock pigtail is what plugs in to the field terminal on your alternator. This needs to be any 12V power source as the alternator cannot convert energy without.

The white wire seems to be what plugs into your sense terminal on your alternator. This wire just needs to be at system voltage so it could be connected directly to the battery post on your alternator. This is not the ideal situation as it will not regulate the voltage properly. Instead, it should be connected to the positive terminal of the battery or somewhere farther away in the system. Your proposal to hook the white wire up to an ignition switched power source should work if everything else is connected correctly.

The sense wire lets the alternator "sense" the actually voltage in the system and boost it to the proper level.

So you should have:

1. A connection directly from the positive post on the battery to the battery terminal on the alternator

2. The connection you already have to the red wire on your stock pigtail

3. A connection from anywhere in your system that sees full power (i.e. battery, fuse box)

As far as I can tell your proposal should result in a working alternator. If not, I'll try to offer any further help I can.
 
drogg1 said:
80ELCAMINOFLAKE said:
ok so this is what im going to do.

1. I have 14-16ga from fuse box to a power souce only when I turn the key.
2. Connect that wire from the fuse box to the white wire on the stock pigtail, replacing the brown wire that i have bad?
3. Plug in our stock pigtail red/white wire to the ES82 connector and then that into the alternator.
4. Start the car with meter conneted to see if im at 14-14.5 volts.

Well from your pictures it seems the red wire on the stock pigtail is what plugs in to the field terminal on your alternator. This needs to be any 12V power source as the alternator cannot convert energy without.

The white wire seems to be what plugs into your sense terminal on your alternator. This wire just needs to be at system voltage so it could be connected directly to the battery post on your alternator. This is not the ideal situation as it will not regulate the voltage properly. Instead, it should be connected to the positive terminal of the battery or somewhere farther away in the system. Your proposal to hook the white wire up to an ignition switched power source should work if everything else is connected correctly.

The sense wire lets the alternator "sense" the actually voltage in the system and boost it to the proper level.

So you should have:

1. A connection directly from the positive post on the battery to the battery terminal on the alternator

2. The connection you already have to the red wire on your stock pigtail

3. A connection from anywhere in your system that sees full power (i.e. battery, fuse box)

As far as I can tell your proposal should result in a working alternator. If not, I'll try to offer any further help I can.


This sounds very correct and seems to be a winner...i will try it out tomorrow and will update u on this, thanks.. :wink: :mrgreen:
 
Well i was having this alternator/battery problem, so i started another thread, and Longroof79 and 84clonewars were a big help!!

So the problem was when i went with after market gauges, the plug that went into my stock gauge cluster gave me that current that i need that controled my idiot light! So with me taking that out and the curcit thats on back of the stock gauge cluster it discontinued that current and my stock oil temp sensor as well (which i dont use since i have after market gauges). so with that said,. heres how we solved the problem ck out there there pretty interesting..

viewtopic.php?f=16&t=41433
 
I know this car. How are you coming with the spaghetti. 😀
 
1SlowBu said:
I know this car. How are you coming with the spaghetti. 😀


Its there!! havent really did much but just try to get this gorunding sorted out, Elko warrens BIG 3 upgrade...lol

So I grounded with 4ga wire, i did neg battery to block, neg battery to frame, neg battery to inner fender, then firewall to block head, and last 4ga wire from pos battery to back of alternator.. and so far so good, you can actually tell a difference..it sounds like it has more power and volts stay strong, powers the hole Malibu... :mrgreen:

Still havent got my dash back, interior guy was in hospital, hes ok, he called me yesterday and will get saturday, also i dont want to rush into the wires, elko warren always told me to get it done right, and dont leave anything lying around...

I also had to take back the alternator, becuase it was making a loud noise even after all was on tight and good...i think it was a bearing or something scrapping on the inside, so the alternator guy gave me a new one...so its just little things here and there..

Maybe over the weekend i will start to make the spaghetti wires look all nice a hide as much as i can..Thanks for cking in :wink:
 
Got alot done today, capacitor, and alot of wiring, sound system up and running, all connected, with the capacitor it stays strong and dosent drop below 13.5 volts :lol: just waiting on dash..

Heres alittle vid 🙂

[youtube]0AyzX1jGK94[/youtube]
 
The electrical mods you listed are something I,d do to any older vehicle. Never hurts to have extra grounds,Also like I think I mentioned to you before, a larger alt output wire is needed if you don't have one already. It helped ,didn't it.

Now that you're done with that, Wanna follow my lead & build some steel body extensions? :?
 
jlcustomz said:
The electrical mods you listed are something I,d do to any older vehicle. Never hurts to have extra grounds,Also like I think I mentioned to you before, a larger alt output wire is needed if you don't have one already. It helped ,didn't it.

Now that you're done with that, Wanna follow my lead & build some steel body extensions? :?

Yea i did the alt wire, what a big differnce,feels like everythings flowing correctly, Bu start and cranks with no problems, i also took Care of the exhaust cut out wires today, made sure all was clear of the exhaust and ran through firewall, zipties and tight as can be, my interior guy called me today,not tillnext weekend which is fine, gives me time to re arrange these wires and make sure all it connected right.. Stay tuned
 
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