1980 Cutlass build

[truracer20]

Nothing new to share. I haven't even had time to order parts yet. I'm on the tail end of re-roofing a church and its rectory. Over 200 square of shingles and rubber. We've been putting in 14 to 16 hr days 5 days a week. When the weekends come I have a honey do list to take care of, a car to drive and enjoy and some beers to destroy...

I'm also looking at starting to put some money away to get the paint and body done, the old lacquer paint is starting to fail. It turns out that the car has had the sides repainted, they didn't do the hood, top of the roof or the trunk lid. I'm not a paint and body guy so I'm looking for some input on good paint products. I'm not looking for anything outrageous. I'm not sure whether to go with a single stage or a 2 stage. Any input is welcomed.

 

[ssn696]

Single-stage paint is the easiest to apply, and can be buffed to bring back the shine after a few years. But, a two-stage paint with a clear coat is, while harder to apply, puts up with sun damage better if the car lives outside 24/7. Paint is only the last third or so of refinishing a car. If you have old lacquer that is coming off the car, and the underlying metal is rusting, you will need to remove the old paint and primer and probably go down to bare metal. This is a huge job (not to discourage you) but if done well, the car will look awesome for many years. This is the part I don't have the patience to do, and I have a project trapped in 'paint jail' at a semi-competent body shop (not found a better choice yet).

 

[ssn696]

I found a roll of 1/4" OD 90/10 copper nickel brake line that was left over from doing new lines on my truck. It should be enough to run the new rear brake lines. Now I just need to get some 1/2" tubing for fuel lines and I'll be good to go.

Check out inlinetube.com. They offer a kit to do the entire brake system in steel for about $170, or $220 for stainless. Everything is pre-bent and all the fittings and flares are done. Consider how much your personal time is worth per hour. And since the car is down to the frame, this is the easiest time to install that long rear brake line that goes up over and through the fame. They make fuel lines too, and if you think you will ever go to fuel injection, run an extra return line now, with the ends capped off.

 

[truracer20]

Check out inlinetube.com. They offer a kit to do the entire brake system in steel for about $170, or $220 for stainless. Everything is pre-bent and all the fittings and flares are done. Consider how much your personal time is worth per hour. And since the car is down to the frame, this is the easiest time to install that long rear brake line that goes up over and through the fame. They make fuel lines too, and if you think you will ever go to fuel injection, run an extra return line now, with the ends capped off.

I do plan to run a return line while I have access, I want the ability to run an electric fuel pump for future engine upgrades.
I'm going to use the nickle copper brake tubing, it bends and flares like a dream and will last just as long as stainless. It takes about 10 minutes to form the coils at the master cylinder and they come out looking perfect. It is what European automakers are using. It's pricey but worth it. And now many parts stores are selling it by the foot. Living in Pennsylvania where they salt and put chemicals on the roads every time a snow flake forms I've become an expert at flaring and bending brake tubing. 5 years ago I had to redo all of the lines on my 02 F250. That's right the factory lines lasted a whole 8 years... This car will never see salt again but still I want it to last. I value my time but sometimes I can't pry my wallet open to pay for something I can do myself, even when the price is really good. $220 for a complete stainless is good though.

 

[truracer20]

Single-stage paint is the easiest to apply, and can be buffed to bring back the shine after a few years. But, a two-stage paint with a clear coat is, while harder to apply, puts up with sun damage better if the car lives outside 24/7. Paint is only the last third or so of refinishing a car. If you have old lacquer that is coming off the car, and the underlying metal is rusting, you will need to remove the old paint and primer and probably go down to bare metal. This is a huge job (not to discourage you) but if done well, the car will look awesome for many years. This is the part I don't have the patience to do, and I have a project trapped in 'paint jail' at a semi-competent body shop (not found a better choice yet).

Yeah I'm not a body guy. Mechanical stuff doesn't scare me but body and paint does. And from what I understand all of the old paint needs to come off. I want the job to last when it does get done. The sad part is only the areas that weren't painted in the last go round are failing. I think I am going to try repairing and repainting the roof and deck lid myself just to get me by while I save for the real paint job. I am familiar with spraying lacquer and both only require minor work.

 

[OldCutty80]

Truracer20, awesome build so far sir! Any recent updates?