1982 Monte E85 Blow Thru Procharged SBC Build *PICS and VIDS ADDED***RUNNING***

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Took the car out for her first drive. The DA here was -700ft yesterday lol, it ended up making 8.5lbs of boost which is too much. Probably going to have to get a different pulley. It ran good though. The carb is very very close. It looked like the fuel pump was keeping up as well.
I ended up replacing my old AEM wideband gauge with a new AEM wideband failsafe gauge. For the price this thing can not be beat! I displays both AFR and Boost/Vacuum at the same time. It also has an input for RPM signal. Besides being a AFR/Boost gauge, the gauge itself has 2.5 hrs of internal memory. So basically it will record 2.5hrs of data, and then when full, it just starts to overwrite the oldest data. Once you hook it to a laptop you can download the data log and view it on regular AEMData. The gauge logs AFR, Manifold pressure, and engine RPM.
The gauge also allows you to set lean/rich AFR limits that are dependent on manifold pressure. So basically you can set your lean limit for idle cruise to be 14 or 15:1 and then slowly bring it down to say 12:1 at full boost. If you go outside the lean limit you set the gauge will blink. It also has a grounded output that will trigger so if you want you can hook that to a stage retard on an MSD box so if the motor goes lean you can have it pull extra timing.
If anyone is interested more in the gauge/logger I can post some pics. I would literally never own another carbed car, boosted or not, without it.

If the "gauge" has a boost control function I believe you should consider adding a wastegate to the charge pipe. I wastegated (50mm IIRC) the D1SC on my TBSS and can manually tune it for 5-6 or double up and go to about 12 psi just by adding manifold pressure to the top of the WG. I run a smaller 3.85" pulley which lets the blower get up to speed faster, and then it bleeds off whatever it needs to stay at 5-6psi (which is just spring pressure).
 
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If the "gauge" has a boost control function I believe you should consider adding a wastegate to the charge pipe. I wastegated (50mm IIRC) the D1SC on my TBSS and can manually tune it for 5-6 or double up and go to about 12 psi just by adding manifold pressure to the top of the WG. I run a smaller 3.85" pulley which lets the blower get up to speed faster, and then it bleeds off whatever it needs to stay at 5-6psi (which is just spring pressure).
It doesnt have a boost control function, but they do make one very similar that I believe does do boost control. I am just going to keep it as is though and just do a pulley swap, probably from the 4.75" to a 5". I am going to try and pulley it down to 5-6lbs for now. If the boost drops off too much when its warm I might put this pulley back on for Summer.
 
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It doesnt have a boost control function, but they do make one very similar that I believe does do boost control. I am just going to keep it as is though and just do a pulley swap, probably from the 4.75" to a 5". I am going to try and pulley it down to 5-6lbs for now. If the boost drops off too much when its warm I might put this pulley back on for Summer.

Thing is you don't need a digital controller to modulate the pressure - you can do it with a bleed valve. The WG in my TBSS is fully mechanical - I just have a second pressure line that goes to the top which has a check valve in it and a nitrous jet to bleed off the pressure. Change the orifice size, change the boost gain. Does the boost referenced carb compensate for the air mass (other than through the fuel pressure regulator)?
 
Thing is you don't need a digital controller to modulate the pressure - you can do it with a bleed valve. The WG in my TBSS is fully mechanical - I just have a second pressure line that goes to the top which has a check valve in it and a nitrous jet to bleed off the pressure. Change the orifice size, change the boost gain. Does the boost referenced carb compensate for the air mass (other than through the fuel pressure regulator)?
The carb is an E85 blow thru from Horsepower Innovations and has his custom boost reference power valve.
I know how to control boost, i just don't want to. I'd rather keep the boost lower at peak torque anyway. Plus one less thing to mess with.
 
I hit the manifold with a temp gun after a 30 min drive. Manifold was only 86F lol!
I just watched an Engine Masters episode involving intake temperature; it was very interesting. Turns out that fuel temperature has an impact on HP moreso than air temp, so those old school cool cans for the fuel line were actually beneficial.
 
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