Wow that’s impressive ok thanks for letting me know and I’ll post a picture to see if I need to space it
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1983 Cutlass Calais “The Cripples Cruiser”
- Thread starter Stupidquestionspro
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Wow that’s impressive ok thanks for letting me know and I’ll post a picture to see if I need to space it
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Not the best pictures but is my fan positioned correctly in the shroud?
And now that I’ve verified the cooling system is full and replaced the temp sensor when idling and fully warm on a hot day the temp gauge reads 220 degrees.
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A cheap temp gun is nice to double check. It looks like the fan is positioned correctly.
Ok so I’m not positive but I think .5 may have been too wide of a gap so I’m dropping back to .45 and trying it I’ve been having a random slight knock from one or both of the rear cylinders with no pattern and usually only happens if the RPMs get too low and never higher than idle. My dipstick is a b*tch to read but I can see that my valve covers are seeping and my pcv is moving some oil through it as well as the small amount of oil on my plugs so to be safe I put in a bit more oil to be sure that I wasn’t running low.
I haven’t had a chance to check the fuel pressure the regulator is putting out yet but it’s currently set to 4psi on the regulator. My floats are back at 1/4 to try and help stop my hot fuel pushing past the needle. Unfortunately the car is still running around 220 verified that it’s completely full of coolant and no blockage in the radiator and from what I’ve read my fan is placed correctly in the shroud as well I was told the non thermal clutch I put on wouldn’t raise temps though I guess my 160 thermostat could have I just didn’t imagine it raising temps more than the 195 thermostat. Thinking if I buy the newer style aluminum and plastic tank radiator for a 307 with ac that should help and then possibly switch to the 4 blade fan suggested though have to wait on cash flow.
Kinda wish I could just start from scratch since things are way harder this way but the challenge is definitely fun sometimes.
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I haven’t had a chance to check the fuel pressure the regulator is putting out yet but it’s currently set to 4psi on the regulator. My floats are back at 1/4 to try and help stop my hot fuel pushing past the needle. Unfortunately the car is still running around 220 verified that it’s completely full of coolant and no blockage in the radiator and from what I’ve read my fan is placed correctly in the shroud as well I was told the non thermal clutch I put on wouldn’t raise temps though I guess my 160 thermostat could have I just didn’t imagine it raising temps more than the 195 thermostat. Thinking if I buy the newer style aluminum and plastic tank radiator for a 307 with ac that should help and then possibly switch to the 4 blade fan suggested though have to wait on cash flow.
Kinda wish I could just start from scratch since things are way harder this way but the challenge is definitely fun sometimes.
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I have this fan laying in my garage should I be using it instead?
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Well been doing a terrible job keeping this up
Changed the fan for the other I had and spaced it a bit more in the shroud
The temp still isn’t where it should be but changed the thermostat from the 160 to 180 to make sure I wasn’t causing my own issue
Lowered my floats a bit more to try and help with my fuel boiling into the intake
Turns out choke was getting stuck so I adjusted it to open way earlier and that has been helping hoping it improves my gas mileage
I think my exhaust cross over plugs are rattling so it’s scary because you never wanna hear metal on metal with a motor.
Still trying to solve my heat issues finally got my alternator racket courtesy of wskirvin.
Need to install that still and get new belts
Ac pressures are closer to normal but compressor still isn’t cycling will probably have to completely evacuate drain oil and recharge because I think the last time it was done they overcharged and put too much oil in
Lots of other little problems I’m fighting as detailed in my other threads
And of course either courtesy of the intake or my ineptitude the intake is leaking oil again so that’s been awesome
Still need to seal the rear end and figure out what my gears are and really need to figure out what’s up with the brakes if it is bad adjustment or what probably gonna buy a b body master and I think there is a better booster from what I’ve read I think I have a 9 inch dual diaphragm
Need to run a return fuel line and finish swapping all my rubber fuel lines and the list goes on
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Changed the fan for the other I had and spaced it a bit more in the shroud
The temp still isn’t where it should be but changed the thermostat from the 160 to 180 to make sure I wasn’t causing my own issue
Lowered my floats a bit more to try and help with my fuel boiling into the intake
Turns out choke was getting stuck so I adjusted it to open way earlier and that has been helping hoping it improves my gas mileage
I think my exhaust cross over plugs are rattling so it’s scary because you never wanna hear metal on metal with a motor.
Still trying to solve my heat issues finally got my alternator racket courtesy of wskirvin.
Need to install that still and get new belts
Ac pressures are closer to normal but compressor still isn’t cycling will probably have to completely evacuate drain oil and recharge because I think the last time it was done they overcharged and put too much oil in
Lots of other little problems I’m fighting as detailed in my other threads
And of course either courtesy of the intake or my ineptitude the intake is leaking oil again so that’s been awesome
Still need to seal the rear end and figure out what my gears are and really need to figure out what’s up with the brakes if it is bad adjustment or what probably gonna buy a b body master and I think there is a better booster from what I’ve read I think I have a 9 inch dual diaphragm
Need to run a return fuel line and finish swapping all my rubber fuel lines and the list goes on
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You need a cheap daily driver until you get this sorted out.
My thought? Pull the engine and start over. Take the block to the machine shop and have it bored an RCH. If it has TRW/SpeedPro pistons that are too tight, you'll never get it to cool correctly.
My thought? Pull the engine and start over. Take the block to the machine shop and have it bored an RCH. If it has TRW/SpeedPro pistons that are too tight, you'll never get it to cool correctly.
Fairly certain they’re Keith black cast and it’s already been done .30 over and yea I’ve been dying to do the same thing however finances say a no go. But I’m definitely looking into that while I fight through the issues at hand
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Get the 4 blade on the car. The single core aluminum plastic rad performed better than the Champion 3 core in my 88.
Yea I only tried the other because it was free when I have the money I intend to try it and am I right I’m assuming that you run the 4 blade without a clutch?
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