1983 Cutlass

[Shakes the Rat]

On the way home last night the 2 month old throw out bearing on my F100 started making noise. Since I had a day off, (sorta) I had to fix either the Cutlass or the f100. I had the parts for the Cutlass so it won. I pulled the carburetor and found this.



I the pulled the fuel tank and found out the sock fell off the sending unit. Without any kind of filter, it pulled the trash into the carburetor (past the filters).
I ordered a new tank last week and installed it. It was a cheap eBay tank. I didn't want to spend too much since I plan on changing everything out in the future. It looked nice initially but there were some issues. The groove for the sending unit gasket isn't the correct size so some care is needed to insure the gasket doesn't leak. Also, the filler neck isn't at the correct angle so the license plate doesn't close completely. But it did come painted so bonus!!



It now runs great. I still have some tuning to do but I can do that over the weekend. But now it's beer time

 

[Shakes the Rat]

So now I have an issue. I have almost a new fuel system. New tank, new pump, clean fuel lines, clean carburetor, new filters. I primed the fuel carburetor bowl and the car started right up. But at idle, the first filter runs dry. The pump isn't pulling enough vacuum to fill the carburetor. If I rev the motor, the filter fills up (it's clear so I can see the fuel) and the car runs great. I drop it to idle and the filter drys up. If it idles for more than a few minutes, the carburetor's reservoir runs dry and the car dies. I changed the pump to the original one (no issues with it initially) and the same issue arises.

So I figure I have a bad original pump and a bad new pump. I'm debating on finding a new, good mechanical pump or just installing an electric pump.

 

[Texas82GP]

Could you be sucking air somewhere? Pinhole in fuel line?

 

[Shakes the Rat]

Possible. It is the original hard line and the only thing not replaced. I did replace all the rubber hoses and clamps. I was thinking about replacing the hard line initially but I didn't want to deal with bending steel tubing. I may just buy some stainless/Teflon flex line, some AN fittings, and replace it all. I did that on my F100 and have had no issues.

I had to park the car at a friends house last night and borrow his truck. Right now it looks like it will be another week before I can look at it. I need to fix the throw out bearing on my F100 so I have a vehicle to get to work in. Plus with the other work in the shop, the Cutlass is down the list.

 

[Shakes the Rat]

Could you be sucking air somewhere? Pinhole in fuel line?

DING DING DING. I think this was it. I pulled the braided fuel line from my F100 and used it to bypass the steel line. I also reinstalled the new pump I thought was bad. Now, at idle, fuel is being pulled through the filter. I let it idle for 10 minutes and there was still fuel in the filter (it was dry before). I zip tied the braided line along the old fuel line and it ended up being the correct length. Seeing how impossible it will be to bend and install a steel line with the body on the frame, I'll order more braided line, AN fittings and proper clamps so I can install a permanent fuel line next week.

 

[Texas82GP]

DING DING DING. I think this was it. I pulled the braided fuel line from my F100 and used it to bypass the steel line. I also reinstalled the new pump I thought was bad. Now, at idle, fuel is being pulled through the filter. I let it idle for 10 minutes and there was still fuel in the filter (it was dry before). I zip tied the braided line along the old fuel line and it ended up being the correct length. Seeing how impossible it will be to bend and install a steel line with the body on the frame, I'll order more braided line, AN fittings and proper clamps so I can install a permanent fuel line next week.

That's great news. Others on here have formed their own new hard line and routed it a little differently so it isn't between the body and the frame. I think many have used the cunifer line which sounds nice to work with but I am unfamiliar with it. I'm guessing when you replaced the tank or the fuel pump, the hard line formed a pinhole at a weak spot.

 

[Shakes the Rat]

The Cutlass is off the road. I drove it to work last Wednesday. I left work around 9:15 and drove 30 minutes home. When I pulled into the drive, the oil light came on and the engine was knocking. I shut the engine down, popped the hood and you could hear gasoline boiling in the carburetor. I had coolant in it and the overheat light didn't come on (no gauges). It showed no signs of overheating on the freeway.

I didn't get a chance to look closer at it till today. The wiring for the temperature sensor has dried out and was grounded on the alternator bracket so that was probably why I didn't get a light on the dash. I was able to start the engine and was rewarded with a loud rattling from the front of the engine. I haven't done a compression test yet but I don't even want to bother. I'm done with this engine. I'm on the lookout for a replacement.

 

[Opie Knievel]

What are your plans for a replacement engine?

 

[Shakes the Rat]

I don't know yet. I want to go ahead with the ls swap but my pocket book isn't ready for that yet. I'll probably go SB Chevy and a th350. Parts are cheap, engines are everywhere, and it's an easy swap.

 

[Shakes the Rat]

I've started collecting parts. There is a swap meet in Conroe this weekend and I was able to pick up a TH350 for $100. I'll tear it down later this week and order the parts to rebuild it Monday.

I think I've decided on a 305. I plan on re-ringing it, installing a small cam, and using a small 4 barrel. It won't be a powerhouse but for what I want, it's appropriate. And since no-one wants 305's, they are practically free.