EL CAMINO 1983 El Camino 5.3 Swap / Build Thread

JohnIL

Greasemonkey
Sep 9, 2020
131
310
63
Central Illinois
I was always interested in seeing how hard it would be to put an LED strip into the upper bed moulding. Thought about doing something in the rear window channel, but figured if there was ever a problem the adhesive would suck. Others have junkyard swapped brake lights on the inside of the glass. Reflection into the cab becomes a concern. Think the wagon guys found something that works. Not sure, maybe someone else will chime in.

The light we found isn't a perfect fit. It's a bit too tall to fit between the upper cab trim and the rear window trim. My plan is to mount it below the cab moulding, overlapping the rear window trim. It's not a perfect solution, but it will definitely be visible, which I suppose is the whole point. If we stumble across a really thin strip light that fits between the trim lines, I'm sure that would look better.

The key to ease of installation is the headliner. With the headliner out, the wiring is simple. With the headliner in, it would be a nightmare.
 

Tomeal

G-Body Guru
Apr 17, 2016
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Clyde,pa
Thread from another forum, but kind of gets the creative ideas going.

 

scoti

Royal Smart Person
Sep 5, 2019
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Texas
The light we found isn't a perfect fit. It's a bit too tall to fit between the upper cab trim and the rear window trim. My plan is to mount it below the cab moulding, overlapping the rear window trim. It's not a perfect solution, but it will definitely be visible, which I suppose is the whole point. If we stumble across a really thin strip light that fits between the trim lines, I'm sure that would look better.

The key to ease of installation is the headliner. With the headliner out, the wiring is simple. With the headliner in, it would be a nightmare.
One suggestion is to test it out using a magnetic base & make sure it does what you want before poking more holes/sources for moisture to creep into the interior.
 

JohnIL

Greasemonkey
Sep 9, 2020
131
310
63
Central Illinois
One suggestion is to test it out using a magnetic base & make sure it does what you want before poking more holes/sources for moisture to creep into the interior.
That's a great suggestion. We mocked it by hand. I held it in place by hand and tapped the brake pedal to trigger the light. It's VERY bright. Attaching temporarily with magnets would let us take it for a drive with a chase car to see how well it works out on the road.
 
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mclellan83

Comic Book Super Hero
Jun 27, 2017
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I would have leaned towards a rope light inside or something so you don't have to worry about making holes, something like this

 

JohnIL

Greasemonkey
Sep 9, 2020
131
310
63
Central Illinois
Finally, some decent weather

You've all heard me lament the cold weather this winter and spring. Well, the temperature finally warmed up over the weekend and there are signs of life in the yard. The magnolias are in bloom and the grass is turning green. It very well may snow on Easter, but this weekend it was warm enough to spend some quality time in the garage.

3rd Brake Light
On Saturday afternoon, I buttoned up the installation of the 3rd brake light. Since there is no headliner in the way, the mounting and wiring was easy. You can see pictures below of the light in action. This makes a vast improvement in brake light visibility. I hope this will help keep other drivers from driving over my son's tailgate. We're both pretty pleased with the way the light turned out.

Ignition Lock Cylinder
This one is a good story. When we first got the car running, after sitting for almost 20 years, we noticed that the ignition lock cylinder needed to be replaced. It was stiff and it didn't "click" into the off and accessory positions. I picked up a replacement part at O'Reilly several months ago. I've been waiting for a warm day so I could take my time and teach my son how to disassemble and reassemble the steering column. It's not difficult, but it takes time and requires just about every tool in the garage, including a couple of specialty tools my son has never had occasion to use. Well, Saturday was the day. The disassembly went well enough. My son didn't even break anything inside the column. Once we got down the lock cylinder, things got interesting. I handed my son the T25 driver and asked him to remove the cylinder retaining screw and he said, "What screw?". That's right, there was no retaining screw. I've replaced ignition lock cylinders in several G-bodies, but I've never seen one with out a retaining screw. In fact, there was a hole in the column for retaining screw, but there was no groove in the lock cylinder for the screw to lock into. Instead, there was a spring-loaded retaining button at the end of the cylinder. The replacement cylinder had a slot for a retaining screw, but without an actual retaining screw, there was no way to install it.

So, I took the replacement cylinder and the cylinder we removed to O'Reilly to look for a replacement. No matter how many different ways they looked it up, their computer insisted that we had the right replacement. I went back out the parking lot, sat in my truck, and thought about why this particular 1983 El Camino would have something other than a stock lock cylinder. Then it dawned on me. If you've been following this build thread from the beginning, you know that the car has been in my family for almost 30 years, beginning with my uncle. He used to be fulltime self-employed mechanic and bought the El Camino as a parts hauler. Outside of work hours, his real passion was (and still is) Pontiac GTO's, specifically, convertible Ram-Air 3/4 Judge models. He's had 25ish GTO's in his collection over the years. So, on a lark, I asked O'Reilly to look up the ignition lock cylinder for a 1970 GTO and sure enough, it matched the one that came out of the El Camino. I suspect that the cylinder went bad at some point and he grabbed one from his parts shelf and never looked back.

Once we had the correct (sort of) replacement cylinder, the replacement was easy. It all went right back together. No fuss, no muss. If you ever find yourself in a pinch, an older style (late '60's, early '70's) A-body ignition lock cylinder will snap into place in a G-body, there's just no provision for a retaining screw. If I ever stumble across one of those factory installed cylinder retaining screws, we'll go back and replace the cylinder with the correct 1983 replacement part.

Engine Intake Cover
On Sunday afternoon, as soon as the temperature got warm enough to paint, I laid down four coats of base color on the engine intake cover. See the pictures below. Now that it's red, I can see every single blemish in my miserable attempt at bodywork. Still, it's not too bad considering the hack that did the work. I'll give it a few days to cure, then I'll do some masking and spray some SS strips in "aluminum" silver. It's getting there.

Rust and Dent Repair
While the paint was drying on the intake cover, my son and I dug into the rust and dent repair. There is A LOT of it. In addition to the usual mid-west rot (door bottoms and quarter panels), there is also vandalism damage. Shortly after my uncle bought the car, my cousin borrowed it to drive to a party at a friend's house. At that point, teenager things happened. One of my cousin's friends got drunk and mad, then proceeded to kick in the quarter panel, just behind the driver's door and above the rear wheel well. Then, he stumbled his way around the car and attempted to rip the mirror off the passenger door. I really hate people who destroy other peoples property. Sadly, the damage was never really repaired. Years later, my father pulled the dent behind the driver door with a slide hammer leaving 50ish holes and a rippled panel, but that's as far as the repairs went. On top of all of that, the El Camino came from the factory with bed rails (6 large rusty holes in the top edge of both quarter panels) and a snap-on tonneau cover (about a dozen small rusty holes on both quarter panels and across the tailgate. There is also the usual assortment of dents and dings elsewhere on the body.

We started by drilling about a hundred new holes in the body in order to pull the various dents with a slide hammer. We already had about a hundred holes to weld up, so another hundred was no big deal. Once we had the dents reasonably straight, we ground off some paint and my son set to work with the mig welder, welding up all the holes. As he worked his way around the car, I followed with an air grinder. We got roughly half the holes welded up and dressed. We ended the day by shooting the bare spots with primer to help keep the rust at bay until our next garage session. There's a lot left to do, but progress is progress. Even after the pulling, welding, and grinding, the driver side quarter panel is wrinkled mess. I see a lot of filling and blocking in our future.

What's Next?
Now that we've started on the bodywork, that's pretty much all we'll be doing for a while. We have new lower door skins for both sides and rear quarter front lower patch panels for both sides. The rear quarter rear lowers will need to be patched with sheet steel because those patch panels have completely disappeared from the market since the beginning of the pandemic. We'll be doing lots of cutting, welding, rust converting, priming, filling, sanding, and repeating. Good times.
 

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JohnIL

Greasemonkey
Sep 9, 2020
131
310
63
Central Illinois
It's sad to think that it's been an entire month since my last update. On the plus side, spring has finally arrived. In fact, we skipped spring and went directly to summer. It's been in the low 90's all week. The weather turned warm (very warm) last weekend and we finally got some quality garage time.

Engine Intake Cover
On Saturday, in between yardwork obligations, we finished the paint on the Engine Intake Cover. I'm extremely happy with the final product. The SS stripes are sprayed in an aluminum silver engine paint. The "Chevrolet" lettering is a set of vinyl decals for tri-five Chevy small block valve covers. If I had known it turn out this nice, I would have spent more time getting the bodywork straight. This was a fun project and it makes a huge difference in the aesthetics of he engine bay.

IntakeCover16.jpg
IntakeCover17.jpg
IntakeCover18.jpg


More Rust and Dent Repair
We spent pretty much all of Sunday working on the driver side rear quarter panel. This the panel that took most of the vandalism damage. This is the same panel we started on back in April. We finally got the majority of the caved in area pulled out and we got all of the slide-hammer screw holes welded up. Here are some before and after pictures to give an idea of what we're up against on this panel. As you can see in the "after" picture, we left some of the welds lumpy. The lumps are in the bottoms of the shallow dents. The body filler on this panel will be thicker than I had hoped. Now, I'm hoping that the lumpy welds will help stabilize the panel and the filler. Lots of filling and blocking.


BodyWork03.jpg
BodyWork04.jpg


What's Next?
Next up is cutting and welding patch panels. We have patch panels for the rust holes in the front lower corners of both rear corner panels (right behind the doors). These are, by far, the worst of the body rot. We'll have to cut out the rust, rebuild the inner structure behind the quarters, then weld in the new patch panels. Oh, and spread LOTS of rust converter and rust encapsulator paint. This is going to take a while. I just hope it doesn't take another month to post an update. Wish us luck!
 
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JohnIL

Greasemonkey
Sep 9, 2020
131
310
63
Central Illinois
Long time, no see!

Summer activities (not G body related) have cut into our garage time. But, we didn't have any plans over the long Independence Day weekend, so we got back to work on the El Camino.

ECU Programming/Tuning
This was actually done back in late May. I just haven't updated the thread since the work was done. When we bought the engine, wiring harness, and ECU, it came with a "startup tune". It ran pretty well, but there were a few issues that needed to be addressed:
  • EGR Valve Fault Code - The ECU was looking for an EGR valve that stayed with the donor vehicle. I cleared the code and it came right back.
  • Low/High Idle - The idle was set at 750rpm. That's too high for a "low idle" and too low for a "high idle". And, there was really was no "high idle or "low idle" once the engine warmed up. It just sat at 750rpm, all the time.
  • Transmission Shift Points - The 4l60E was set to shift into overdrive right at 55mph. Definitely not ideal for two-lane highway driving.
I looked for a local shop to reprogram/tune the ECU. Unfortunately, I couldn't find anyone in Central Illinois (near Springfield). My choices were shops in/around St Louis, Indianapolis, or Chicago. I found a shop, called Speed Inc, in Schaumburg, IL (outside of Chicago). It was a bit of a haul, but Speed Inc specializes in LS engine work and tuning, using HP Tuners and they have a good reputation. It was worth the trip. Speed Inc was great to work with. Good service, good people, and some very cool cars sitting around the shop to gawk at. Meanwhile, their tuner got to work on our ECU. He eliminated the EGR fault, set the low idle at 600rpm and the high idle at 900rpm, and lowered the shift points so that we're in over drive at 50mph. The highway manners are much improved. Eventually, we will probably swap the rear gear from the current 2.29:1 ratio to 3.55:1. That will wake up the cars performance. At that point, we'll take the car back to Speed Inc to have the shift points readjusted accordingly.

Speedometer Calibration
When Speed Inc retuned the ECU, there was an interested "side effect". When we first installed the CableX electric-to-mechanical adapter, I had some minor trouble getting it calibrated. In theory, the ECU should have been supplying a VSS signal of 4000 pulses per mile. In reality, it was supplying closer to 3000 pulses per mile. I calibrated the CableX accordingly. Then, after the tune, the mechanical speedometer was reading WAY high. Like 25% high. If you're quick with numbers, you'll notice that 25% is the difference between 3000 and 4000. Part of Speed Inc's base tune procedure is to verify that the VSS signal is set correctly. Obviously, it wasn't. They set it back to 4000 pulses per mile, where it should be. All I had to do was to recalibrate the CableX box to 4000 and the mechanical speedometer settled down to match the GPS speedometer.

Exhaust/Frame Clearance
When we first installed the drivetrain in the car, we had a very minor interference issue between the passenger side exhaust manifold "collector" (where the O2 sensor is installed) and the lower control arm mount. When the exhaust shop welded up the new pipes, the collector was no longer touching the control arm mount, but the pipe itself was. The end result was an annoying (and a little bit alarming) clunk when driving on rough roads. We live in a rural area, so we deal with rough roads A LOT! Some additional clearance was definitely needed between the exhaust pipe and the frame.

Luckily, I had the presence of mind (or maybe just the blind luck) to think to ask the exhaust shop to install a pair of joints/disconnects just in front of the X-pipe. My thought was that servicing the transmission would be virtual impossible without cutting apart the exhaust system. This forethought saved me a ton of pain and agony. I was able to unbolt the passenger side exhaust pipe at the manifold and at the X-pipe, basically, the front three feet of the passenger side exhaust. This let me work on just that section, while leaving the rest of the exhaust intact and in place.

With the section of the pipe out of the car and on the workbench, I smoothed out the edge of the collector with an angle grinder and massaged the pipe with a precision ballpeen hammer. This bought us about an 1/8" of clearance. That isn't much, but it appears to be enough to resolve of the clunk. The drive train is mounted on poly bushings, all around. There isn't much flex at all. We took the car for a test drive on the roughest roads in the area and the cluck appears to be gone. If the clunk ever returns, it would be a sign of something else in the drive train moving around.

Headliner
We finally got around to installing a headliner. The challenge was the interior color. Apparently, Dark Briar Brown fabric succumbed to COVID-19. Before the pandemic, our plan was to order an entirely new headliner shell with Dark Briar Brown fabric pre-installed. That's an expensive way to go, but my son really wanted to keep the interior as original as possible. By the time we were ready to place the order last winter, Dark Briar Brown headliner material was entirely gone from the market. I started with the online retailers and worked my way up the supply chain all the way to the upholstery supply wholesalers. Nobody has Dark Briar Brown. It's completely gone. Weird, but true.

This turned out to be a good thing. As we've gotten further and further along with the project, my son has eased up on the originality. This isn't a restoration. If anything, it's more like a restomod. He's started to see the benefits of the customizations and modernizations we've made. The lack of an available headliner opened the door for an alternate solution that I used on my '81 El Camino way back in the mid-1990's. Instead of replacing the failed headliner with new headliner material, I used inexpensive automotive carpeting, glued directly to the steel ceiling without a headliner shell. It was inexpensive, durable, it looked good, and it provided some extra headroom, which is always welcome in a G Body. My son wasn't really convinced until we got the carpet installed on his ceiling. We found a shade of dark brown carpet on Amazon that is a very close match to the factory floor carpeting. Because the carpet is cheap, it has no backing, which is an advantage because it's almost as lightweight as the original headliner material. We lined the car ceiling with Kilmat sound deadening material and glued the carpet over that with Permatex Heavy Duty Headliner Adhesive. To the casual observer, it looks like a factory headliner. The only downside is that the old faded sun visors don't match the new carpet color. Eventually, we'll take a sample of the carpet to an upholstery shop and ask them to wrap the visors in a fabric that comes comes closer to matching.

Engine Intake Cover
This one almost made me cry. If you saw my last few updates, you already know that I fabricated and painted a shiny red engine intake cover to disguise some of the LS utilitarianism. Over the weekend, we finally got around to installing the cover on the engine. Then, we went for a test drive to check the exhaust work for clunks and rattles. When we got back to the garage, we opened the hood to discover that the shiny new intake cover was making contact with one of the ribs on the underside of the hood. The paint had already started to wear through from the vibration. After teaching my son a few new garage words, got out the angle grinder and lopped off the front 3 1/2 inches of the cover to make clearance. Some paint touch up was required, but it's back on the engine. I'm pretty disappointed with this turn of events. The front of the cover looks too short now, but I'm hoping that's just because I know what it looked like before the surgery. My son points out that it's still at least 1000% percent better than looking at the raw plastic intake manifold. He's right, of course, but cutting into the fresh paint with an angle grinder was hard to stomach.

What's Next?
The "What's Next" section has become the hardest part of these posts because I'm honestly not sure what we'll chip away at next. We really need to get back to work on the body, like I said we would back in May. Time and motivation will tell...
 

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Jul 29, 2022
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Long time, no see!

Summer activities (not G body related) have cut into our garage time. But, we didn't have any plans over the long Independence Day weekend, so we got back to work on the El Camino.

ECU Programming/Tuning
This was actually done back in late May. I just haven't updated the thread since the work was done. When we bought the engine, wiring harness, and ECU, it came with a "startup tune". It ran pretty well, but there were a few issues that needed to be addressed:
  • EGR Valve Fault Code - The ECU was looking for an EGR valve that stayed with the donor vehicle. I cleared the code and it came right back.
  • Low/High Idle - The idle was set at 750rpm. That's too high for a "low idle" and too low for a "high idle". And, there was no "high idle" once the engine warmed up. It just sat at 750rpm, all the time.
  • Transmission Shift Points - The 4l60E was set to shift into overdrive right at 55mph. Definitely not ideal for two-lane highway driving.
I looked for a local shop to reprogram/tune the ECU. Unfortunately, I couldn't find anyone in Central Illinois (near Springfield). My choices were shops in/around St Louis, Indianapolis, or Chicago. I found a shop, called Speed Inc, in Schaumburg, IL (outside of Chicago). It was a bit of a haul, but Speed Inc specializes in LS engine work and tuning, using HP Tuners and they have a good reputation. It was worth the trip. Speed Inc was great to work with. Good service, good people, and some very cool cars sitting around the shop to gawk at. Meanwhile, their tuner got to work on our ECU. He eliminated the EGR fault, set the low idle at 600rpm and the high idle at 900rpm, and lowered the shift points so that we're in over drive at 50mph. The highway manners are much improved. Eventually, we will probably swap the rear gear from the current 2.29:1 ratio to 3.55:1. That will wake up the cars performance. At that point, we'll take the care back to Speed Inc to have the shift points readjusted accordingly.

Speedometer Calibration
When Speed Inc retuned the ECU, there was an interested "side effect". When we first installed the CableX electric-to-mechanical adapter, I had some minor trouble getting it calibrated. In theory, the ECU should have been supplying a VSS signal of 4000 pulses per mile. In reality, it was supplying closer to 3000 pulses per mile. I calibrated the CableX accordingly. Then, after the tune, the mechanical speedometer was reading WAY high. Like 25% high. If you're quick with numbers, you'll notice that 25% is the difference between 3000 and 4000. Part of Speed Inc's base tune procedure is to verify that the VSS signal is set correctly. Obviously, it wasn't. They set it back to 4000 pulses per mile, where it should be. All I had to do was to recalibrate the CableX box to 4000 and the mechanical speedometer settled down to match the GPS speedometer.

Exhaust/Frame Clearance
When we first installed the drivetrain in the car, we had a very minor interference issue between the passenger side exhaust manifold "collector" (where the O2 sensor is installed) and the lower control arm mount. When the exhaust shop welded up the new pipes, the collector was no longer touching the control arm mount, but the pipe itself was. The end result was an annoying (and a little bit alarming) clunk when driving on rough roads. We live in a rural area, so we deal with rough roads A LOT! Some additional clearance was definitely needed between the exhaust pipe and the frame.

Luckily, I had the presence of mind (or maybe just the blind luck) to think to ask the exhaust shop to install a pair of joints/disconnects just in front of the X-pipe. My thought was that servicing the transmission would be virtual impossible without cutting apart the exhaust system. This forethought saved me a ton of pain and agony. I was able to unbolt the passenger side exhaust pipe at the manifold and at the X-pipe, basically, the front three feet of the passenger side exhaust. This let me work on just that section, while leaving the rest of the exhaust intact and in place.

With the section of the pipe out of the car and on the workbench, I smoothed out the edge of the collector with an angle grinder and massaged the pipe with a precision ballpeen hammer. This bought us about an 1/8" of clearance. That isn't much, but it appears to be enough to resolve of the clunk. The drive train is mounted on poly bushings, all around. There isn't much flex at all. We took the car for a test drive on the roughest roads in the area and the cluck appears to be gone. If the clunk ever returns, it would be a sign of something else in the drive train moving around.

Headliner
We finally got around to installing a headliner. The challenge was the interior color. Apparently, Dark Briar Brown fabric succumbed to COVID-19. Before the pandemic, our plan was to order an entirely new headliner shell with Dark Briar Brown fabric pre-installed. That's an expensive way to go, but my son really wanted to keep the interior as original as possible. By the time we were ready to place the order last winter, Dark Briar Brown headliner material was entirely gone from the market. I started with the online retailers and worked my way up the supply chain all the way to the upholstery supply wholesalers. Nobody has Dark Briar Brown. It's completely gone. Weird, but true.

This turned out to be a good thing. As we've gotten further and further along with the project, my son has eased up on the originality. This isn't a restoration. If anything, it's more like a restomod. He's started to see the benefits of the customizations and modernizations we've made. The lack of an available headliner opened the door for an alternate solution that I used on my '81 El Camino way back in the mid-1990's. Instead of replacing the failed headliner with new headliner material, I used inexpensive automotive carpeting, glued directly to the steel ceiling without a headliner shell. It was inexpensive, durable, it looked good, and it provided some extra headroom, which is always welcome in a G Body. My son wasn't really convinced until we got the carpet installed on his ceiling. We found a shade of dark brown carpet that is a very close match to the factory floor carpeting on Amazon. Because the carpet is cheap, it has no backing, which is an advantage because it's almost as light as the original headliner material. We lined the car ceiling with Kilmat sound deadening material and glued the carpet over that with Permatex Heavy Duty Headliner Adhesive. To the casual observer, it looks like a factory headliner. The only downside is that the old faded sun visors don't match the new carpet color. Eventually, we'll take a sample of the carpet to an upholstery shop and ask them to wrap the visors in a fabric that comes comes closer to matching.

Engine Intake Cover
This one almost made me cry. If you saw my last few updates, you already know that I fabricated and painted a shiny red engine intake cover to disguise some of the LS utilitarianism. Over the weekend, we finally got around to installing the cover on the engine. Then, we went for a test drive to check the exhaust work for clunks and rattles. When we got back to the garage, we opened the hood to discover that the shiny new intake cover was making contact with one of the ribs on the underside of the hood. The paint had already started to wear through from the vibration. After I taught my son a few new garage words, got out the angle grinder and lopped off the front 3 1/2 inches of the cover to make clearance. Some paint touch up was required, but it's back on the engine. I'm pretty disappointed with this turn of events. The front of the cover looks too short now, but I'm hoping that's just because I know what it looked like before the surgery. My son points out that it's still at least 1000% percent better than looking at the raw plastic intake manifold. He's right, of course, but cutting into the fresh paint with an angle grinder was hard to take.

What's Next?
The "What's Next" section has become the hardest part of these posts because I'm honestly not sure what we'll chip away at next. We really need to get back to work on the body, like I said we would back in May. Time and motivation will tell...
Glad to see an update. I'm looking to do the same for my 79. I just joined the forum, because of your posts. Keep posting. I got some Questions. Thanks.
 

JohnIL

Greasemonkey
Sep 9, 2020
131
310
63
Central Illinois
Glad to see an update. I'm looking to do the same for my 79. I just joined the forum, because of your posts. Keep posting. I got some Questions. Thanks.
Breeze,
Ask away! The experts here on the forum have been an invaluable resource and I'll be happy to pay it forward if I can. If our experience can help someone else, so much the better.

John
 
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